Correct/best rust converter

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Mikemike42

Its not a knock off of anything, and its made by SEM top notch. Have u used it? No you havent but i have used it and used alot of others and i seen with my own eyes so unless u can say the same than you dont know what your talking about so why say you know something but you never used it? Stop putting out speculative PERSONAL assumptions that arent facts when i have used it and can give u facts on this stuff. Thanks. Anything u say is hogwash if u havent seen it yourself like i have. Dont waiste your time on here saying speculative comments.

Calm down MikeMike. It’s just phosphoric acid, same concentration as Ospho, same everything, even the color is the same.

When I tried to find who was first, I found Ospho was introduced in 1947 (https://skybryte.com/index.php) and SEM doesn’t list the date they started selling it.

[Mikemike42]

Everything you say is wrong. Its not the same concentrate. Ospho is weak. Rust mort is not. Again. You dont know what your talking about. Why do you say things that arent true and you just say them and you have no idea what your even talkin about. Lol. Please stop posting. Its people like you that put out false info and confuse people and you dont even speak truth. Your wrong. Please stop. Your a funny person.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Mikemike42

Everything you say is wrong. Its not the same concentrate. Ospho is weak. Rust mort is not. Again. You dont know what your talking about. Why do you say things that arent true and you just say them and you have no idea what your even talkin about. Lol. Please stop posting. Its people like you that put out false info and confuse people and you dont even speak truth. Your wrong. Please stop. Your a funny person.

Rust-mort is 45% phosphoric acid. Ospho tries to keep it a secret on their SDS so they list it to be within the range of 40-50%.

It is the same, I’m sure you can Google the data sheets.

[Pete7]

Mike,

Calm down . Everyone is entitled to an opinion and to post it on CF. It is up to the reader to decide if the advice is worth following.

You may challenge assumptions, but it shall be done politely as you would having a discussion in a nice pub around the fire with friends.

Peter

Moderator

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Mikemike42

Its not a knock off of anything, and its made by SEM top notch. Have u used it? No you havent but i have used it and used alot of others and i seen with my own eyes so unless u can say the same than you dont know what your talking about so why say you know something but you never used it? Stop putting out speculative PERSONAL assumptions that arent facts when i have used it and can give u facts on this stuff. Thanks. Anything u say is hogwash if u havent seen it yourself like i have. Dont waiste your time on here saying speculative comments.

Have you used Rust-mort in a marine environment professionally?
Have you used Rust-mort in a marine environment at personal (DIY) level?

[Nekton73]

For what it's worth I have used Rust Mort for automotive purposes and it is superior to any other product I've tried... but I've not tried Ospho so I will check it out. My truck could use a little love this coming spring.


My boat is fiberglass and aluminum (and stainless) so not much need for rust mort. Where do you use it?

[skipperpete]

We used a really good rust converter onboard ship, a white liquid. Non phos acid. The ab’s spent the day needle gunning the hatch covers and latch points at sea then hosed the day’s work down with fresh water and brushed on this product while the surface was still damp, it turns black as it quickly dries and can be painted over with a primer. The name of the product eludes me but recently I bought a similar product from Bunnings, “white knight” rust converter and it seems to be the same stuff but I discovered that that there’s a phos acid converter in a practically identical bottle from the same manufacturer so shop carefully for the “ milky “one

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by skipperpete

We used a really good rust converter onboard ship, a white liquid. Non phos acid. The ab’s spent the day needle gunning the hatch covers and latch points at sea then hosed the day’s work down with fresh water and brushed on this product while the surface was still damp, it turns black as it quickly dries and can be painted over with a primer. The name of the product eludes me but recently I bought a similar product from Bunnings, “white knight” rust converter and it seems to be the same stuff but I discovered that that there’s a phos acid converter in a practically identical bottle from the same manufacturer so shop carefully for the “ milky “one

This one is different, it is based on acrylic vinyl resin. White Knight is PPG Australia and the SDS is here: https://buyat.ppg.com/ehsdocumentman...6c994e33690001

[hpeer]

I have used a bunch of stuff. Next go round in about 10minutes. It all seems about 80% effective. Many times it works, Sometimes it does not work. Maybe it will work next time. Maybe, someday, I will stop the rust under my windlass, not hopeful.

Long story I wont repeat, but sometimes environmental factors interfere. Like painting near a refinery. Fools errand. Caused blisters BEFORE the boat got launched.

[nuku34]

To the OP:
I owned a steel yacht for 12 years and I know a wee bit about RUST.
With respect, try thinking out of the box:

1) Any wood attached to steel in a wet marine environment is going to eventually cause the steel to RUST. The wood holds salt moisture and that will eventually find its way through any paint system you apply to the steel.

20 How about attaching your wood rub rail to the hull with a gap of say 6mm? Use purpose-made

SS spacers between the wood and the hull at the places where the bolts go through the wood and the hull. That way you don't have wood to steel contact. If the rub rail is thick enough and bolts say 700mm apart, the rail should absorb impact without cracking.
3) Again, with respect to all the other posters: nothing beats sandblasting to prep steel for painting. Anything less (grinding, needle guns, and worst of all "rust converters") is just a stopgap and will leave a residue of rust/salt to continue the rusting process UNDER the new paint. Good experiences with "rust converters" in automotive situations has no relevance to marine applications in salt water. Rust converters have their place on a steel boat, but not in this case of wood on steel in a very wet environment.

Just saying; slag me off if you want, but I've been there and done all that for 12 years.

[RaymondR]

nuku34 is right about putting wood onto steel- mugs game.

Aluminium between the wood and the steel is the way to go.

Chip the rust off and Sikaflex aluminium to the steel to exclude water. You can then put the wood on top of the aluminium. If water gets between the aluminium and the steel the aluminium will corrode and protect the steel. I did this with anything bolted to steel (even sheet winches) and never had a problem for the 27 years I had the steel boat.