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18-02-2010, 10:41
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Vancouver Island
Boat: 37ft pilothouse in the PNW
Posts: 501
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Chainplate Rebedding
good day everyone. this spring im thinking its time to rebed my chainplates as this winter i noticed a little moisture coming through one of them. i am planning on doing one at a time but would like to hear peoples comments as too what product they are using to rebed. thanks everyone
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18-02-2010, 11:05
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Netherlands, Holland
Boat: Sold Sigma 33 OOD some time ago, will be chartering in Turkey really soon
Posts: 361
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I used Sikaflex (291) with good results.
On my Sigma 33 OOD I was able to just lift a cover from the deck, clean them and rebed it. No need to loosen or remove stays or shrouds; there is enough room to lift them for cleaning. Most important trick after thorough cleaning is to not tighten the covers to the deck but leave a nice thick layer of sikaflex (use matches as gauge). After setting you can tighten the covers a little.
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18-02-2010, 15:15
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Boat: Nimble30 'Sweet Pea'
Posts: 11
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Butyl tape: lasts forever, easy to install and cleanup- and cheap. Available in white, black, and gray.
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18-02-2010, 15:32
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#4
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Senior Cruiser

Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: 29° 49.16’ N 82° 25.82’ W
Boat: Pearson 422
Posts: 16,306
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If this is an older boat I would be really tempted to pull the chainplates for inspection before rebedding. Stainless steel is subject to crevasse corrosion and it would be prudent to see what the hidden area of the chain plates looks like, especially if you have seen water dripping through into the cabin.
__________________
The water is always bluer on the other side of the ocean.
Sometimes it's necessary to state the obvious for the benefit of the oblivious.
Rust is the poor man's Loctite.
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18-02-2010, 16:09
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Cat in Polynesia, trawler in Ventura
Boat: 46' custom cat "Rum Doxy", Roughwater 41"Abreojos"
Posts: 2,003
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The polyurethanes (3M 5200, Sika 291, etc.) are excellent adhesives but suffer from UV exposure and can be difficult/impossible to remove. The polysulfides (Lifecaulk, 3M 301) are more flexible, UV resistant and can be removed if necesary. Butyl tape is very flexible, dirt cheap, easy to use and lasts for decades. In your application, where the parts are held mechanically and no additional adhesive is necesary, I would use butyl tape or a polysulfide. Another member, "Maine Sail", has an excellent post on the subject which goes into greater detail. Worth the search if you can find it.
Best of luck,
Mike
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19-02-2010, 04:16
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#6
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CF Adviser Moderator Emeritus

Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Virginia
Boat: Island Packet 380, now sold
Posts: 8,942
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Island Packet Yachts recommends using GE SilPruf for the chainplates. I re-bedded mine by cutting and picking out the old caulk from the cavities where the shrouds exit the deck, cleaning the area with alcohol, letting it dry out, then re-filling the cavities with the Silpruf. Still good after four years, including a few rough offshore passages.
__________________
Hud
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19-02-2010, 04:23
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
Boat: Islander Mark II 30, 30ft - Zephyr
Posts: 78
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I just bought a book by Don Casey from Amazon for 10 buck called Sailboat hull and deck repair. I talks about this very product. I would recommend picking it up. Talks about inspection, and the products to use to reseat and seal.
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19-02-2010, 06:29
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Vancouver Island
Boat: 37ft pilothouse in the PNW
Posts: 501
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thanks for all the replies this GE silpruf could it also be used to rebed windows?
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20-02-2010, 06:03
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#9
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Senior Cruiser

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N x 89-20W
Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt)
Posts: 47,200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelmrc
thanks for all the replies this GE silpruf could it also be used to rebed windows?
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Probably.
Structural glazing applications require that GE Silicones give written approval of the use of GE SilPruf® SCS2000 Silicone Sealant for each building project. Drawing review and substrate testing must be completed prior to sealant use on a project. Review and testing is done on a job -to-job basis. No blanket approval is given by GE Silicones for structural glazing applications. Use only approved back-up materials, spacers and setting blocks to ensure sealant compatibility and function. GE SilPruf SCS2000 Silicone Sealant is not recommended for use where abrasion or physical abuse is encountered in horizontal joints on- or below-grade.
The sealant is not recommended for use in locations subject to continuous water immersion.
SilPruf may be considered a candidate for use with numerous construction-related materials, including: glass, polycarbonate, vinyl, numerous plastics, treated and untreated wood, fluoropolymer and powder coated paints, conversion-coated and anodized aluminum, brick, terra-cotta, ceramic and porcelain materials, concrete and natural stones.
__________________
Gord May
"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"
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20-02-2010, 07:03
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Cat in Polynesia, trawler in Ventura
Boat: 46' custom cat "Rum Doxy", Roughwater 41"Abreojos"
Posts: 2,003
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20-02-2010, 09:23
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Boat: Nimble30 'Sweet Pea'
Posts: 11
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I re-glazed my port lights just last week with Dow 795 (black) at the suggestion of my refitting guru despite the fact that the frames do not provide the minimum joint size of 1/4" as specified by DowCorning. The results look great and they don't leak (so far) but what a pain in the a$$ it is to mask the glass and frames.
I will use butyl tape to re-bed the port light frames back in the hull.
The advantage, I think, of butyl tape for chain plate bedding is that it can be easily removed if necessary or one could simply pack more in if needed. Clean up's a snap too. The stuff deserves a place in everybody's tool kit.
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