Acrilic set in teak hatches

[Krogensailor]

I'm in the process of setting 3/8" acrylic into teak hatches. 15" x 15". What is the best adhesive to use? It has to expand and contract. Adhere well to both wood and plastic. Is there a primer to aid in adhesion? Thanks for any input

[delmarrey]

Use the BoatLIFE "Life-Seal". It's made for wood and poly. Use and acetone/MEK on the wood just before sealing with the life-seal. Or you can buy the primer for sealing the wood.
LifeSeal Sealant Cartridges - BoatLIFE




.

[Stonefloat]

I have had good results with sika 291 it's always good idea to wipe the oils off teak area that will receive the sealant just before application

Cheers, Stonefloat

[Bluemansailor]

Butyl Tape -
GREAT stuff, stays soft, sticky even thickness and it's not messy!

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by Bluemansailor

Butyl Tape -
GREAT stuff, stays soft, sticky even thickness and it's not messy!

The problem I find with butyl tape on bare wood, depending on whether it's black or grey, is that the black bleeds/wicks out into the grain. And once used, if you do decide to go to a poly sealant, it'll never stick to where the butyl was w/o a major sanding/clean up.

In hot weather it will become a little runny until it's aged. The stuff's great on FG and metal. I use it on my cabin windows due to the twisting of the hull, but not the lift hatches.

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by Krogensailor

.............. It has to expand and contract. Adhere well to both wood and plastic. Is there a primer to aid in adhesion? Thanks for any input

What ever you use, you need to lay in a layer of sealant to support the window, leaving a gap around the out side and fill that with sealant. Much like a car window that sits in a rubber molding. This allows the sealant to do all the flexing w/o losing the bond on the window and mount.

[Terra Nova]

Sikaflex 295UV.

Sand the acrylic surfaces to be bonded. Design the joint so there is sufficient 295 between the acrylic and wood to stretch and compress without breaking the bond, as acrylic will expand and contract from temperature changes.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

Sikaflex 295UV.

Sand the acrylic surfaces to be bonded. Design the joint so there is sufficient 295 between the acrylic and wood to stretch and compress without breaking the bond, as acrylic will expand and contract from temperature changes.

For teak , I'd use the Sika catalyst as well

Dave


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

Sikaflex 295UV.

Sand the acrylic surfaces to be bonded. Design the joint so there is sufficient 295 between the acrylic and wood to stretch and compress without breaking the bond, as acrylic will expand and contract from temperature changes.

+1. Use with Sika 209 primer.

[Krogensailor]

I appreciate the responses. Anyone think putting screws every t wo to three Inches around the perimeter is a good idea. Seems like anything to inhibit movement is a good idea.

[Terra Nova]

You'll just be inviting cracking across the screw holes. Acrylic has a great deal of thermal expansion. Many screws won't prevent that.

[Lojanica]

Another method is butyl tape on the flat part of the acrylic then leave a healthy gap or groove on the edge between the wood and acrylic edge. Then use sikaflex in the groove. Never leaks, still flexes, and seals the butyl in so it doesn't squeeze or run out.

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by Lojanica

Another method is butyl tape on the flat part of the acrylic then leave a healthy gap or groove on the edge between the wood and acrylic edge. Then use sikaflex in the groove. Never leaks, still flexes, and seals the butyl in so it doesn't squeeze or run out.

That's what I did with my cabin windows.