60 ft on the Chesapeake - It Begins !

[DSDman]

Just an update on the boat electrical systems. Try as I might I could not solve the electrical problems. The boat was built in 1981 and taken to the Med. While there it was converted to 220. They did it on the cheap and only had breakers on one leg of the hot 110. The other leg was hot wired to the neutral bar and carried the un breakered 110. Very unsafe and generally not the thing to do...but it lasted for 20 years! So finally broke down and have hired a master electrician to replace the 220/110 panel and run some new 4 wire shore power cable that can handle the new 50 amp service. So once its all done I should have an ABYC compliant AC panel and a very expensive piece of mind. The boat will be much safer and I should have a decent foundation on which to build. I'm ashamed to say that I couldn't do it, so I've had to swallow some pride and hire the pro's.

[Capt Phil]

I admire your perseverance on the refit, DSDman... having rewired a 1972 DeFever powerboat with 12/24/32/110/220 volt systems, it was more than my feeble ability could handle and hired a master electrician to do the heavy lifting. Working with him I learned a lot and was able to trouble shoot minor problems that arose over the years we lived aboard. The peace of mind is certainly worth the investment... good on ya'... cheers, Phil

[minaret]

That's right about when I hire someone else myself. No shame, it's not a good place to be making beginners mistakes.

[DSDman]

This is my first mast boot replacement. What is the right way to replace this boot? The original seal looks like caulk or something and was leaking. Pics to follow

[DSDman]

Crazy program keeps crashing, anyway after I've reglassed this area I would like to fix this correctly. It has a metal band that scews down over it. Is there a rubber gasket made for such applications?

[DSDman]

More prep work this weekend and cut all the fiberglass pieces, so two layers thick and next weekend I can start actually glassing. I'm a little nervous about it, seems very permanent and if I screw it up I'll be kicking myself for weeks.

[Hotel L]

Watch the temperature.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by DSDman

Crazy program keeps crashing, anyway after I've reglassed this area I would like to fix this correctly. It has a metal band that scews down over it. Is there a rubber gasket made for such applications?

Attachment 56654



Attachment 56655



Attachment 56656

ST-20001 SPARTITE Spartite Mast Wedge Replacement System

[minaret]

Originally Posted by DSDman

More prep work this weekend and cut all the fiberglass pieces, so two layers thick and next weekend I can start actually glassing. I'm a little nervous about it, seems very permanent and if I screw it up I'll be kicking myself for weeks.

You'll be fine, it's only two matts. What are your probable temps? What is your planned catalyzation ratio? 1 1/2 oz. matt?

When I'm butting layers of matt I stagger the butts and rip the edge instead of cutting it, then it blends seamlessly. If you pin it to a flat surface with a straight edge and rip it by hand it's easy to rip straight. Start small, do a little test zone first, like a hatch or step. Considered peel ply?

[DSDman]

Thanks Mineret, all that info would have been great this morning! Now tell me what to do now that all my edges are clean. I have overlapped them all by an inch and ahalf. yes its 1.5 oz cloth.

[DSDman]

Oh yeah, its 3 oz per gallon, temps next weekend should be in the high 40 s to mid 50 s.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by DSDman

Thanks Mineret, all that info would have been great this morning! Now tell me what to do now that all my edges are clean. I have overlapped them all by an inch and ahalf. yes its 1.5 oz cloth.

Lol! If you got it all cut and set up with laps, just go for it. It just means more grinding and fairing later.

Or you could put a straight edge on each lap 3/4" from the edge and then rip it, but it's hard to get a clean rip with only 3/4" sticking out.

Really, it's no big deal with just matt. Just roll the laps out really nice. Peel ply would help this too. I'm just telling you how I do it for future reference, but I'm picky...

[DSDman]

I'm hoping that with some sanding and the gel coat and then the tuff coat on top of that it will all even out. I ended up with 18 separate pieces. like a big jig saw puzzle. It doesn't look anywhere near as cool as your vacuum bagged panels!

[minaret]

Originally Posted by DSDman

Oh yeah, its 3 oz per gallon, temps next weekend should be in the high 40 s to mid 50 s.

Nice low temps. 3oz. = 88.7 cc. Poly iso should be catalyzed at 2% technically, which is 22cc per qt, right on your 3oz. Per gallon. But I almost never catalyze a whole gallon, even for very big lay ups. Use a catalyst beaker or syringe to measure catalyst, and catalyze small batches at a time. For your conditions I'd suggest no more than two quart batches. Given that you are not a pro, I would suggest you bring your ratio way down. I'd say 7.5 cc per qt. is about right for you, certainly no more than 10. Some people will tell you not to catalyze below 1%, but believe me it's not a problem. If you catalyze a whole gallon with 3 oz. of standard 45% MEKP it will roast off on you before you've used half of it. Mix your two quart batch and immediately split it into two pots, the more you have sitting in a pot the faster it will kick due to heat sharing. Start from one side of the deck and put both layers of matt down one right behind the other, air rolling as you go. That way when you are in the middle of the deck the beginning where you started may be totally kicked but its not a problem.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by DSDman

I'm hoping that with some sanding and the gel coat and then the tuff coat on top of that it will all even out. I ended up with 18 separate pieces. like a big jig saw puzzle. It doesn't look anywhere near as cool as your vacuum bagged panels!

Ah, wait till you get er glassed! If your glass work comes out real nice and you do a little grindiness before rolling on a few coats of gel, I bet it'll sand out fair with just a couple of filler spots. That's why you want the laps nice, those bands of double thickness will screw you when fairing. Staggered butts are better for fairing. When you lap you end up grinding off the lap when fairing anyway, so you may as well butt instead. The ripping method leaves no hard lines, with some practice it comes out perfect. What kind of air rollers are you using? Are you rolling on your resin from trays? One worker or two? Just tryin to help here...