Requests for tips to remove impeller on 4JH Yanmar

[JSurr]

Hello all, I am reaching out in hopes that someone could give me some advice on how to remove a seized impeller from an 4JH Yanmar. It is on an Irwin 43 that engineers found humorous to have the pump behind an 8" partition and a starter thats 6" away that limits the access.
I have tried plumbers pliers, straight and curved needle nose and spent $130 on a Jabsco impeller puller that just slides off. I have ripped off all but one impeller blade in the attempt of getting it out.
I am trying to avoid having to pull the pump because, again insane design, I have to remove an engine mount to get to 2 of the 4 bolts on the pump.
Has anybody ever run into this before and how did you remove the impeller?

Thanx in advanced

[hpeer]

I have a 4JH4-TE.

I am assuming our pumps are mounted in the same place in the engine. I also have to remove an engine mount to remove the pump. However I am blessed with good access.

I have always been able to remove the impeller fairly easily with needle nose pliers.

Genuine Yanmar impellers have a threaded hub and they sell a removal tool. I forget exactly how it works but yiu screw the tool into the hum and are then able to turn the tool to remove the impeller. No help now but maybe good for future reference to avoid a repeat.


Ah ha, a link!

https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-...jh3-4jh4-4jh5/

[noelex 77]

It looks like the impeller has a few broken veins so remove it before running the engine.

I am not sure what the lump or flared end of the impeller drive shaft is (circled in red). This may be causing the problem removing the impeller. I have not seen this before.

Try spreading glycerin around the impeller to provide some lubrication. If you use some pliers to grab the veins the impeller can usually be gradually eased out. If not, you will have to remove the whole water-pump.

Next time use a genuine Yanmar impeller that has a simple screw mechanism to ease out the impeller.

[noelex 77]

This is the normal appearance of the impeller on the Yanmar 4JH engines.

Notice the impeller axle or drive shaft does not have a flared end.

Has someone in the past bashed yours with a hammer and distorted the end?

[hpeer]

At first I too thought the end was beat up and made a similar comment. But looking closer I changed my mind, and edited my response. I think the photo angle is making it look weird. And there is damage from him trying to pull ot out.

I have tried plumbers pliers, straight and curved needle nose and spent $130 on a Jabsco impeller puller that just slides off. I have ripped off all but one impeller blade in the attempt of getting it out.

[sv_pelagia]

Just to strongly re-emphasize what has already been stated:

Make sure you replace with a new Yanmar impeller that has the threads which makes the subsequent removal of impeller incredibly easy (using inexpensive Yanmar puller... essentially a bolt within a nut with threads inside and outside). See photos.
Attachment 271599

[paralog]

Originally Posted by JSurr

Hello all, I am reaching out in hopes that someone could give me some advice on how to remove a seized impeller from an 4JH Yanmar. It is on an Irwin 43 that engineers found humorous to have the pump behind an 8" partition and a starter thats 6" away that limits the access.
I have tried plumbers pliers, straight and curved needle nose and spent $130 on a Jabsco impeller puller that just slides off. I have ripped off all but one impeller blade in the attempt of getting it out.
I am trying to avoid having to pull the pump because, again insane design, I have to remove an engine mount to get to 2 of the 4 bolts on the pump.
Has anybody ever run into this before and how did you remove the impeller?

Thanx in advanced

Purchase an impeller puller. Can be found at most marine stores.

[ScottRhodes13]

If you can remove the alternator, that might make access easier. Instead of needle nose pliers, I use a cheap, thin plier. I ground a cup shape on the jaws so it grips the rubber better.

[mlydon]

Try a 2 jaw puller like this. Grind the jaws semi-sharp (and perhaps shorter) as marked so they’ll fit in behind the impeller hub.

Matt

Edit - I’m having trouble marking up the pic - only the bottom half showing up….

Here’s the puller….

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Pasco-46...xoC3z8QAvD_BwE

Matt

[skipperpete]

I can’t say for sure but I have a feeling that it would be easier to remove the pump to extract the impeller. It really does look like the shaft has been damaged and if so, it will be practically impossible to draw the impeller (and if you did manage to drag the old hub off the shaft) , dressing the end of the spline to fit a new impeller would be a real challenge in that tight space. Kudos for being kind to the oring groove in the housing by not trying to lever the impeller off with a couple of screwdrivers.

[Madehn]

I would try a couple of needle nose vice grips (small ones) and grab two vanes as close to the hub as you can get to shake it a bit. Might work best of luck to you.

[JSurr]

Thanx to all. all the black seen in the picture is part of the rubber that makes up the impeller, not the shaft. The gold is the splined portion of the impeller, partially seen, the grey is the shaft. Yes there are many of the blades broken off due to my attempts to pull it out with different tools as stated in my original post. I haven't ran nor will I run the engine with the impeller in the condition it is in.

I will look into the tool Matt suggested, thanx. The issue I have is the impeller is pushed all the way to the back of the housing and the paws on the puller can't get behind the impeller. At least thats the issue with the Jabsco impeller puller I have.

Again, thanks for all the suggestions.

[jtsailjt]

Originally Posted by mlydon

Try a 2 jaw puller like this. Grind the jaws semi-sharp (and perhaps shorter) as marked so they’ll fit in behind the impeller hub.

Matt

Edit - I’m having trouble marking up the pic - only the bottom half showing up….

Here’s the puller….

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Pasco-46...xoC3z8QAvD_BwE

Matt

I had a similar problem getting my impeller out of my 4JH. 2 friends loaned me their impeller pullers but I couldn’t get either one to work properly because of too tight access. So I spent 2-3 hours and gained half a dozen skinned knuckles with 2 pairs of needle nose plyers pulling it out by grabbing vanes opposite each other and pulling, destroying several vanes in the process so I had no choice but to continue. I replaced it with the Yanmar type that has the threaded core so I could use the little tool Yanmar sells. Now it takes about 10 minutes to change out an impeller and no skinned knuckles and far fewer profanities uttered. I bet yours will come out too if you keep working at it but movement is extremely slow unless you pull evenly on opposite sides at the same time. Even then it’s painfully slow. I don’t even want to think about changing out my starter with it’s even worse access!

[skipperpete]

Originally Posted by JSurr

Thanx to all. all the black seen in the picture is part of the rubber that makes up the impeller, not the shaft. The gold is the splined portion of the impeller, partially seen, the grey is the shaft. Yes there are many of the blades broken off due to my attempts to pull it out with different tools as stated in my original post. I haven't ran nor will I run the engine with the impeller in the condition it is in.

I will look into the tool Matt suggested, thanx. The issue I have is the impeller is pushed all the way to the back of the housing and the paws on the puller can't get behind the impeller. At least thats the issue with the Jabsco impeller puller I have.

Again, thanks for all the suggestions.

I’m not aware of which jabsco impeller puller that you have, but the one I use requires no gap on the inner end of the impeller and relies entirely on the pressure applied to the two thumbscrews that force the pointed lugs on the puller arms into the impeller rubber hub. Once the thumbscrews are really tight, the tee handle can be turned to extract ( hopefully) the impeller. For the JH’s I made up a bolt to replace the overly long tee bar.
The needle nose pliers never worked for me but I found a cheap pair of Vycegrips that almost never fail[ATTACH]

[marlin driver]

Using a cotton swab or a small tool, push synthetic grease back between the vanes. Get quite a bit in there, you can clean it out later. Now turn the engine with bumps from the starter just enough to spin the impeller around a few revolutions so it will distribute some lube between the vanes and pump walls.

Now use whatever pulling tools you have available and it will come out. You will be shocked at how much easier it is to move. The dry rubber impeller will grip the walls and stay stuck when you try to pull it. A little grease in there changes the whole process. Make sure you lube up the new one when you put it in and that will also take a fraction of the effort.

Just make sure you use synthetic grease (Superlube is one) and not petroleum based, which can deteriorate the rubber.