Repowering from Volvo to yanmar

[roverhi]

If you have an offset shaft on the boat the replacement engine has to have the same direction of rotation. Without the rotation to match the offset the boat will be uncontrollable in reverse and a very heavy helm going forward. IIRC Volvo and Yanmar have the opposite rotation. If the shaft is centerline then rotation probably isn't an issue.

Yanmar tractors are painted green and sold as John Deere's in the US. If you can find the tractor engine number parts at a JD dealer may be cheaper though I haven't checked to see if that's the case. It would be an alternate source of parts for the non marine specific stuff.

[Exctyengr]

Let me go back to my original suggestion, AJA, the OP, stated in his second post that when he bought the boat from (essentially) a salvage yard, it had a Perkins (I am guessing a 4-107 or 4-108) that was a block of iron. So, AJA, replaced the "block of iron" with a Volvo that went south. Since the original engine was a Perkins and since there are literally thousands of them out there why not simply go back to the Perky? We know it will fit, the engine bed probably still has the original mounting holes in it and the plumbing and electrical is simple.

[MicHughV]

ha ha....that's funny....looks my replica....but I also added a 1" wood dowel, appropriately sized and located, for shaft location, plus a few other odds and ends......and then I allowed a few fractions of an inch for the actual engine weight, which I knew would push the rubber engine supports down a tad....my goal being to install the new engine so that it would perfectly align with the existing prop shaft and flange...the supports for the engine can be adjust up....but not down.....as the rubber prevents that...so you have to allow for that...ie, make it a bit lower as you can always go up....but not down..
To this end, I had also fixed the existing prop shaft in place with another piece of wood, so that it's location was spot on as I did not want the shaft to be out of alignment with the cutlass bearing outside the boat. This is important to do, as otherwise the weight of the shaft and flange will cause the prop shaft to dip down without support.

A bit of time here to figure all these things out was well spent as the new engine went in and perfectly connected with everything...

Getting the new engine in thru' the companionway, and the old engine out...was another challenge....another topic maybe.....

[donradcliffe]

Yanmar will probably require larger exhaust diameter. I would avoid a new computer controlled engine at all costs.

[NorthCoastJoe]

I replace an Atomic 4 with a Yanmar3gm30f in my Pearson. The process was easy the only issue I had was my Yanmar motor mounts were centered inboard of the old beds. I used 1/4 " steel plate to make the line up work it was fairly easy to do. Totally happy with my setup.

[boatman1]

My last boat (similar in size to yours) was repowered by the previous owner with a 56 hp 4cyl Yanmar ( originally a Westerbeke ). I believe that the three cylinder Yanmar (40ish hp) would have been adequate, and there would have been a smaller package to deal with. The word on the Beta engine repower is that they’ll design and fabricate an engine bed/stringer/mount for their engine to install in your boat. That would be worth a good deal: it could save you many an hour over doing it yourself. Getting the geometry right and designing the installation so that moving the engine around easily (and Accurately) for alignment to the shaft is really, really important. If you use the boat like most folks do, motoring and motorsailing will be a common occurrence- you really do not want to be concerned with a misalligned engine/prop shaft.

[Jono as 2234]

I looked for a replacement for an old Volvo (green anchor). The beta dealer was really helpful and claimed they had a drop in replacement, once I have the original specs. Fair price too. They also said that if one has a modicum of diy, one could realistically fit it without professional help

[jimbunyard]

Originally Posted by AJA

...Can anybody tell me what model Yanmar would best replace/ fit my MD2040’s bed?...

Don't know if it's the 'best', but a 3JH5E would almost fit right in the same place.

The transverse mount dimension is a bit narrower than the Volvo, 16.5" versus 18.1".

The overall length is almost the same, 31" for the Volvo, front of engine to angle flange; 30.3" for the yanmar, with the angle flange.

Height, bottom of pan to top of engine, Volvo 27.4", Yanmar 24.5".

Distance between front and rear mounts, Volvo 15.9", Yanmar 16.2".

Weight Volvo 440 lbs, Yanmar 386.

https://www.yanmar.com/marine/product/engines/3jh5e/

https://www.marinepartsexpress.com/prodbull/md2040.pdf

[jmschmidt]

I can guarantee you can't go to a Kubota tractor dealer and by parts for a Volvo marine engine just as I can't go to a Mitsubishi dealer to by part for my Vetus Mitsubishi. You’ll have the same problem with Yanmar.
The engine builders and the companies that complete and sell the marine conversion models have lockup agreements that prevent your local Kubota or Mitsubishi dealer from selling you the exact same engine part that you should be able to buy (at a cheaper price, usually 30 to 40% cheaper) from the local tractor of forklift dealer.
The marine version dealers, like Vetus and Volvo, have the identical parts in their parts catalogs but all the part numbers have been changed from those of the original engine builder. I bought parts through Vetus and they came in Mitsubishi boxes with stickers stuck over the original Mitsubishi part numbers. I tried to peel off one of the stickers to see the real Mitsubishi part number underneath but the sticker peeled off the face of the box alone with the real number printed on the box, making it unreadable. Gorilla Glue I guess.
I knew a guy who had a pirated cross reference parts manual for a certain model of the Vetus Mitsubishi marine engine. He could go to the local dealer and buy engine parts for “his” generator, forklift, big water pump or anything else Mitsubishi builds engines for and install them in his boat engine. Of course there are parts like heat exchanges, which are add-ons and not produced by the original engine manufacture.
In my opinion these agreements, at least in the US, may constitute unfair restraint of trade and should be investigated by the Justice Department as illegal racketeering. I’m not going to hold my breath but if someone would like to send my remarks to Attorney General Barr I’d be fine with it.

[MicHughV]

these days it's hard to understand who makes what under what label...diesel engines....cars....electronics...appliances..etc.. .etc....a lot of stuff is identical under the label...
I'm an avid fisherman...recently came across two fishing reels....identical down to the last n th degree..but different name...and different pricing...
clothes another one....same stuff....different label...
I don't think any attorney would take this on.....too much precedent....and likely big money players behind it all......

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by AJA

Recently had my Volvo Penta MD2040 pronounced dead by 2 diesel mechanics. In my research for a replacement MD2040 I found a LOT of negativity regarding volvos. This being the case, I’m looking into repowering with a Yanmar instead ( have to go used, and do most of the installation myself as I’ve a limited budget).
Can anybody tell me what model Yanmar would best replace/ fit my MD2040’s bed?
I’ve got a 37’ Irwin CCKetch (1974), and 40hp seemed quite adequate to move her.
Thanks for any advice you can give.

lotta good advice here.
I'd agree with jimbunyard in post14
What i'd try & do is find a Kubota based engine that has a tractor equivalent especially if you are buying used.
If you buy an old Yanmar you are jumping out of the frying pan into the fire in terms of parts prices unless you can find aftermarket parts for it because it has a tractor base or the tractor model it came from.
Some pre 1980 Yanmars had a tractor or industrial engine equivalent but I dont know the 40hp ones.

This takes a lot of time to research so you have to decide what your priorities are. Maybe find your possible candidate engine & pose the question on CF
The other option is marinising a suitable kubota yourself if you have the skills

[MicHughV]

ya, Kubota is the backbone of many diesel engines...reliable...simple....and relatively inexpensive....a Kubota with a Volvo label on it, doubles the price....you'd think you're getting a " Volvo" but in fact it's a Kubota in disguise..

[kryg]

I would first check Perkins 2-cylinder engine as Volvo has rebranded Perkins engines as Volvo.
AS an example, the Volvo 55 hp is the same engine as the Perkins 400 c22. Industrial engine. And has the same footprint. The difference is the spare parts are 75% cheaper than the Volvo replacement parts!! I know as I also installed a Perkins 400c 22 55 hp. The Volvo equivalent was 3 times the price.

I would double-check if your 2040 is a rebranded Perkins by Volvo 2-cylinder engine, if so, You could use the heat exchanger and other Volvo marine parts from your old engine and fit them onto the new Perkins if they are in serviceable condition.

You will save thousands of dollars. Add benefit the Perkins spare parts will be far less expensive. And the mounting footprint should be the same.

Good luck with it.

Originally Posted by AJA

Recently had my Volvo Penta MD2040 pronounced dead by 2 diesel mechanics. In my research for a replacement MD2040 I found a LOT of negativity regarding volvos. This being the case, I’m looking into repowering with a Yanmar instead ( have to go used, and do most of the installation myself as I’ve a limited budget).
Can anybody tell me what model Yanmar would best replace/ fit my MD2040’s bed?
I’ve got a 37’ Irwin CCKetch (1974), and 40hp seemed quite adequate to move her.
Thanks for any advice you can give.

[AJA]

Thanks for those pics. Brilliant’

[jimbunyard]

Originally Posted by kryg

I would first check Perkins 2-cylinder engine as Volvo has rebranded Perkins engines as Volvo.
AS an example, the Volvo 55 hp is the same engine as the Perkins 400 c22. Industrial engine. And has the same footprint. The difference is the spare parts are 75% cheaper than the Volvo replacement parts!! I know as I also installed a Perkins 400c 22 55 hp. The Volvo equivalent was 3 times the price.

I would double-check if your 2040 is a rebranded Perkins by Volvo 2-cylinder engine, if so, You could use the heat exchanger and other Volvo marine parts from your old engine and fit them onto the new Perkins if they are in serviceable condition.

You will save thousands of dollars. Add benefit the Perkins spare parts will be far less expensive. And the mounting footprint should be the same.

Good luck with it.

The MD2040 is definitely a rebranded Perkins 3 cylinder, though not an M40 as originally stated, but an M35, built by ISM under license with Perkins. In most cases it says so right on the tag. I think the ISM model is 103-15.

There are model differences depending on the year, but those are common between the Perkins and the Volvo; i.e. as long as one gets the same model most parts are identical. There are electrical wiring differences and the engines are different from the flywheel housing back, because Volvo has different drives and mounting methods.

As for prices, that depends on how smart one's buying is. For instance, a genuine Volvo 861906 exhaust elbow goes for 397.00 in the US. the genuine Perkins 135616660 elbow goes for 441.00.

A stainless steel aftermarket copy can be had for as little as 243.00, and probably less. Aftermarket engine rebuild kits are available at a fraction of the cost of those from either Volvo or Perkins.