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motion30 · 11-10-2018, 05:52

I put my shift coupler on the barbecue and get it as hot as you can. Likely if your Chef has burst it is only on the end and Would Do no harm to chamfer with a sander

Warby12 · 11-10-2018, 14:38

Thanks all again. Yeah the idea of putting a second cutlass bearing up the shaft appeals to me, would it just be a matter of sizing it correctly and tapping it in, how would it be fixed in place?

And another questiont

if the best way to deal with a shaft and coupling, is to assemble and face them together, doesn't that always mean engine out of the way?

Cadence · 11-10-2018, 14:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Warby12

Thanks all again. Yeah the idea of putting a second cutlass bearing up the shaft appeals to me, would it just be a matter of sizing it correctly and tapping it in, how would it be fixed in place?

And another questiont

if the best way to deal with a shaft and coupling, is to assemble and face them together, doesn't that always mean engine out of the way?

I've never heard of a second cutlass, maybe a large yacht with two struts, a carrier bearing yes. I can't think of a universal way of fixing one in place.
Super Glue.

Cheechako · 11-10-2018, 15:00

Is it burrs on the keyway maybe? At any rate CAREFUL use with a good file will help. Did you measure your coupling and shaft though? Do you have good calipers or etc? If you need to file the shaft, try marking the area with a big permanent marker or etc, the abrade it and look for high spots (those that the marker ink disapeared off of) and file the high spot just bit.
Heat use is a good idea if it's very close.
If your new coupling has a set screw in lieu of keyway, mark and drill a divot in the shaft for the screw to set in.

Warby12 · 11-10-2018, 15:45

Hi Cheechako and Cadence, the shaft is out and being checked and matched to a coupling now at a machine shop.

The reason I wonder about the second cutlass is because i have had two seals (a ring seal and a deep sea seal) chewed out by shaft vibration. I can see it at high revs.

For the record the shaft is 35mm (1 and 3/8 ")thick and 1.9m (6') long. From the engine to the seal is approx .38m (15") Then its back to the P bracket which is right in front of the prop. That should be ok yeah? There's not a lot of room from the back of the engine to the seal for the shaft to start whipping, unless the old flexible coupling was allowing it?

Warby12 · 11-10-2018, 19:18

She's done! Coupling on and faced. Apparently I didn't hurt it too much which is funny because I did a lot of filing (even used a flapper disk at one stage

).

It was bent though, they said, 4thou at either end and six in the middle (not sure what that actually means) but he said that would definitely chew out the seals.

Yipeee !!!! and thanks for all of your help guys

and thanks to Watson Marine Engineering Gold Coast in the Gold Coast

**Lepke** · 11-10-2018, 19:59

A second bearing up the shaft tube has to get a water flow for lubrication. Even a single bearing really needs a flow. Water doesn't circulate naturally up a tube.

You can get a proper fit with hand tools. I've seen it done and done it myself. IT just takes time and care.

Cadence · 12-10-2018, 10:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Warby12

Hi Cheechako and Cadence, the shaft is out and being checked and matched to a coupling now at a machine shop.

The reason I wonder about the second cutlass is because i have had two seals (a ring seal and a deep sea seal) chewed out by shaft vibration. I can see it at high revs.

For the record the shaft is 35mm (1 and 3/8 ")thick and 1.9m (6') long. From the engine to the seal is approx .38m (15") Then its back to the P bracket which is right in front of the prop. That should be ok yeah? There's not a lot of room from the back of the engine to the seal for the shaft to start whipping, unless the old flexible coupling was allowing it?

A shaft that length shouldn't need an intermediate bearing. IMHO It may have been the flexible coupling in conjunction with misalignment? Good luck!