Cutlass Bearing on Prop Shaft Stops Motor

[UNCIVILIZED]

To my knowledge, or what I own anyway, there are 2 kinds of wheels for cutting metal with Dremels. Both being pretty much the same diameter, say 1 3/8", ballpark.

The 1st type is thinner, & appears to be some variety of ceramic, or a material akin to such, impregnated with something like Carborundrum. They do cut quite well, but are also very fragile. So that if once you start to get the disc any depth into a groove which you've cut, & get slightly off angle with the tool, they shatter.

The other type's about 3x as thick. And is based on a fiberous material, which is impregnated with a different, less aggressive, abrasive. So they cut a lot slower & less efficiently, but last much, much longer.
They're a lot more like a cutting wheel that you'd put on an air tool, or 4" grinder.

[mike d.]

With the amount of corrosion on the trans and prop shaft couplers you'd probably have to pull the tranny to get them apart. IE tranny and tranny coupler flange. Then I would heat the flange bolts and soak the bolts and flanges with PB Blaster, every day for a week at least. Then I would break the bolts loose and get them out. They will come out it will take some work. The worst that can happen is you will break them! the more you soak them in PB the easier it will be to break them loose after a while! You'll have to do the same with the flange on the shaft.

[a64pilot]

There are many Dremel brand name of cut off wheels and of course several others not Dremel brand name, for many different uses.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessor...spx?catid=2058

This one may be the one you want
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessor...aspx?pid=506CU

[fjwiley1]

Your problem isn't cutting off the bolts but separating your collar/prop shaft from transmission. If you use a torch, don't get carried away and over heat the rear transmission seal.

Running test continuously could/will have bad results with your stern tube hose while still in the water.

I have as well as many others here experienced what you are about to have to do. Stop the testing in the water, save your money there. Pull the boat and do the work where it will be safe, on the hard. It would be a good time to change your Cutlass bearing, proper 6 ply stern tube, packing gland. You may have to replace the shaft also.

It is a boat .....


Life is good if you Keepa Smilin.........




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[a64pilot]

I believe you can use a "nut buster" to bust the collar? I haven't done that, but mine looks to be cast and that usually busts well.

[Marpessa]

Update on the shaft:

First, sorry so long to finish this thread up I've been busy fixin boats.

It was not a cutlass bearing problem but rather fuel flow through the lines. The problem actually has fixed itself by running the motor at a higher rpm for a short while. My guess is there were some air bubbles in the fuel lines and lift tubes in the new tanks, and they just had to work themselves out randomly.

So, those of you who thought it was a fuel issue were correct. I had the diver come and turn the prop with no resistance so then we knew it was engine related. We ran the motor in gear in the slip until it started to decrease in rpms like it was about to choke out, then gave it a healthy dose of throttle and it got through the point where it would usually die. Been running fine ever since.

Now I'm in the yard doing repairs on the worst blister field anyone has ever seen.

...but that will be another post and pics to follow.


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[CS Cruiser]

Damn gotta love boats eh! Keep us posted

[BigSmile]

Glad you sorted the fuel issue.

Cutlass Bearing: Highly recommend replacing the cutlass bearing. Hull 153 is a Morse Cod bearing, if that helps, but no guarantee. Passed a surveyors inspection, but on removal was pinked.

Stern Tube: I'd do a good inspection around stern tube, while you are at the hull. I believe the tube is not part of the layup in the mold when the hull is made, but is glassed in place after. Heat can affect it, but that was probably not the case, since the issue was tracked to fuel, and sitting in water would mitigate if there were, and water was getting to the bearing.

Coupler Removal Tool: If needed reply back, and I'll dig out pics of a tool to pop couplers off shafts, and I'll work on figuring how to post the pic. Usually, they pound the shaft out with a shaft removal tool with the coupler still attached to the transmission, but with the coupler set screws and/or pins removed. If this is contraindicated, the coupler can be removed after being unbolted from the transmission with a tool that I'm sure you could cobble together locally.

Blisters: Sorry to hear about your blisters. The hull was manufactured before they were starting to get a handle on osmosis issues. Once the yard understood blistering, they started applying an epoxy barrier coat. If you were one of the lucky boats it was checked a year in, and the barrier coat blisters were found due the improper prep, and the hull was properly addressed. Grinding, sandblasting or peeling. Good luck. We ground, and faired with epoxy putty after exposing everything, and then did 5 coats barrier epoxy. With newer materials now 3 coats will do.

Keel: I'd make sure all of the keel gets addressed, whatever it may need. During boat bottom work the tendency with big boats is to not pay enough attention, because it's a nuisance being so low to the ground, and requires lifts to move blocks, etc.

Rudder/Stock-Hull penetration/Bearing: While you are out of the water, I'd also recommend taking a good look at the rudder, and how easily it does or does not move all the way to port, and starboard, and take a close look where the rudder stock enters the hull, and look for any binding. I'd take an air hose & blow out the hinge bearings(pintles/gudgeons) too.

Tank: Thanks for the tank pictures. I thought you were going with Al.
Can you share tankage, dimensions, and/or part number?

Good Luck on all your projects. What yard are you in?