Check before starting an engine after rebuild

[IsaakOker]

Ok, so decided to go for it and have managed to release the plate after destroying the screws with vices…

It appears that 1 & 3 are compressed, 2 is at top & 4 is working.

Striking it from above is what I’ve seen online but I wasn’t sure if it’s safe…and does it have to be copper or any material that’s softer than steel?

I’ll probably try that first and let’s see if that will release them as I’d prefer not to have to take the pump off and get it looked at by someone…

https://ibb.co/BtcK2bY

[IsaakOker]

Ok, so I’ve taken de delivery valves off and have managed to release the plunger or the inner bit of them but now that that has been released and the springs are also loose, they don’t want to come back up even after raving for a bit and having them soaking in pblaster/atf…

Any ideas how to release them without taking them out?

[skipperpete]

That’s a good photo. I’m amazed that someone has posted video online about tapping down the plungers, most of us prefer to not share that brutal approach. So if you try to release the stuck plungers from above.....TAPPING is the appropriate amount of force and you could use a short length of bronze brazing rod. There are 3 basic reasons your pump elements are stuck
1. Corrosion
2. Physical damage or seizure (dirty fuel?)
3. Wax deposit on surfaces (sticky wax)
Corrosion can be a killer and is often caused by an engine flooding, the pump has lube oil in the cambox and milky lube oil puts moisture on the lower end of the pump plungers and bushings... but unlike physical damage which is unrepairable , you might get lucky with a tiny amount of corrosion. Wax is a way better fail, often with cassette type injector pumps just heating the pump in a pot of engine oil to below 100°c will release em. I tried using a grease gun once, put a nipple on an injector pipe , removed the delivery valve and pumped it up till it got solid but the plunger was corroded and this attempt failed.
Try the bronze rod and a tiny hammer , I hope you succeed.

[IsaakOker]

Yes, so as I mentioned in the reply just before yours, I’ve managed to release the centrepiece of the plungers but they’re not stuck in the “down” position and don’t seem to want to release so I’m trying different things to try to get them to move.

Could it be that they will only come back up if the housing is closed and they have fuel to move or should they move independently to the fuel supply?

And yes, there are videos of all sorts online ����

What I do have to change are the O rings of the delivery valves as one has disintegrate entirely…


The engine was sitting so I suppose they’re stuck because of old diesel becoming sticky as I can’t see any physical damage and no apparent oil but maybe I have to check the manual and do an oil change to see if the lower end is the issue..

Attaching photo

https://ibb.co/xYZD3ZH

[skipperpete]

Ok, the plungers only stick at the end of the stroke, top position because the power of the cam pushing up is very powerful but the power of the retract spring is minimal so when things go wrong the plungers hang up. It would take a long time to explain the reasons why its a bad idea to try and get the plunger assembly out through the top, even with the pump stripped ( they will come out but you lose the rack settings). The orings are easy, any hydraulic shop will have em but take one for comparison.
Oh I see,.... whats happened now is that the bushing and plunger together are moving upward. Keep at it with the pblaster. You’re getting deeper into technician territory now and if any of the adjustments ( shim or rack gear)are changed they can only be reset on the pump test bench

[IsaakOker]

Ok, so probably with more pb, they should break loose at some stage?

From what I saw online, the plungers should come out and as long as I place them back in with the groove in the same position, I don’t have to readjust anything…I’d this correct or wrong?

Basically what I want is to try to avoid having to pull the pump and taking it to a shop but the blaster just seeps though in seconds as there is a gap between the plunger and the end of the thread…

[skipperpete]

The only place you want the blaster is on the small area on the top of the plunger.... anywhere else and it just drains into the cam box.

[IsaakOker]

Ok, then I might have to do an oil change when I’m done as I initially also sprayed the springs when they were stuck up…

As for the plunger shaft, I just woke up but they’re all still stuck so I suppose it’s a bad idea but, could I apply a little heat with a kitchen blowtorch? Or are there plastic parts in the plunger or rack?

Basically I’m out of ideas on how to loosen the shaft without taking the entire plunger out…