okay to run engine after after oil change and before layup?

[hlev00]

This seems like splitting hairs but here goes. My boat has a Yanmar 4JH4E in New England. I am about to haul the boat for the winter. This year the location and timing are such that I want to change the oil and filter then, a couple of days later, motor about two hours to where the boat will be hauled first thing the following morning. After the boat is hauled I will need to run again to winterize the raw water circuit. I intend to let it run to warm up on the hard, though likely not to the ideal operating temperature since I won't be able to put a load on it.

Is there any reason not to do the oil change before the engine is on the hard to avoid the two hour runtime with the new oil heading to the haul out?

Thanks,
Harry

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by hlev00

This seems like splitting hairs but here goes. My boat has a Yanmar 4JH4E in New England. I am about to haul the boat for the winter. This year the location and timing are such that I want to change the oil and filter then, a couple of days later, motor about two hours to where the boat will be hauled first thing the following morning. After the boat is hauled I will need to run again to winterize the raw water circuit. I intend to let it run to warm up on the hard, though likely not to the ideal operating temperature since I won't be able to put a load on it.

Is there any reason not to do the oil change before the engine is on the hard to avoid the two hour runtime with the new oil heading to the haul out?

Thanks,
Harry

Assuming you have a water injected exhaust system, you can’t just run the engine while on the hard. You have to use a water hose into the raw water inlet so that the exhaust gets water.

Other than that, you’re good to go.

[Wolfe10]

Only takes 2 minutes of run time to winterize the raw water system.


Can even be done in the water: Close raw water intake. Remove hose and stick in bucket of antifreeze. Run engine until "green" comes out exhaust.


Same can be done on land.



Agree, if running the engine longer on land, will need hose to either raw water inlet or better (for you know you are providing enough water, but not pressurizing the system).

[rslifkin]

I wouldn't be too worried about it either way. If you're putting the boat in the lift pit where you won't have to move it in the morning, I'd probably change the oil and winterize once you arrive so it's over and done (I typically winterize my engines in the lift pit the night before to avoid needing to do it on land).

[jt11791]

Originally Posted by hlev00

This seems like splitting hairs but here goes. My boat has a Yanmar 4JH4E in New England. I am about to haul the boat for the winter. This year the location and timing are such that I want to change the oil and filter then, a couple of days later, motor about two hours to where the boat will be hauled first thing the following morning. After the boat is hauled I will need to run again to winterize the raw water circuit. I intend to let it run to warm up on the hard, though likely not to the ideal operating temperature since I won't be able to put a load on it.

Is there any reason not to do the oil change before the engine is on the hard to avoid the two hour runtime with the new oil heading to the haul out?

Thanks,
Harry

I think this will be fine, two hours of run time won't matter. OTOH, why not just do the oil change at the same time you winterize? What's the need to do it before the run to haul out?

[glenn.225]

Just don't use "green" engine antifreeze in the raw water system, use "pink" plumbing antifreeze.
Otherwise you got good advice.

[hlev00]

Thanks for all the quick feedback.

- @sv Jedi Yes I will supply water on the hard.
- @rslifkin Unfortunately I do have to run the engine to get it to the ramp in the morning so I need to do the antifreeze on the hard after hauling.
- @jt11791 I am thinking of doing the oil while in the water to get the engine hotter than I can do on the hard. Maybe 160F vs 190F. Though that means hotter oil to deal with and maybe not that much of a difference in terms of viscosity.

Available time may make it moot so I may need to do the oil on the hard anyway.

[rslifkin]

You could change the oil on arrival while it's hot, but honestly, changing oil cold isn't that big a deal, it just drains slower. Unless it's been sitting for a while where stuff may have settled, there's no real need to warm an engine up first.

[Mike OReilly]

Originally Posted by hlev00

Is there any reason not to do the oil change before the engine is on the hard to avoid the two hour runtime with the new oil heading to the haul out?

I say no... no reason. A two+ hr run on new oil won't make any substantive difference.

As others have said, you could do the oil change on the hard if you're setting up to run the engine for a duration. IOW, you have raw water running through the intake system. Obviously you can't run the engine for long without doing this.

I've always used the "green" antifreeze when winterizing, but I know others who use standard plumber's antifreeze, and it seems fine. I learned how to winterize my boats back when I cruised in seriously cold areas (northern Lake Superior). Everyone did it this way, so I've just continued. I've since moved to slightly warmer waters (southern Ontario, then Newfoundland), so I'm sure the "pink" stuff would be fine.

[5BTM]

Actually, that is the recommended method of winterizing.
This way all the internals are coated with clean oil.

Just finished winterizing my raw water cooled Yanmar YSE8. I circulated the antifreeze with a 12V Amazon fuel pump until it flowed out the exhaust.

I had to do it on the dry because water got into my fuel tank due to leaving my filler cap 1/4 turn short of tight. Used a 120 liter bin filled with water in the cockpit with another bin below to catch the outflow. Club manager was ok with that.

[Ballsnall]

Originally Posted by 5BTM

Actually, that is the recommended method of winterizing.
This way all the internals are coated with clean oil.

I agree, you need to run the engine to have the new oil fully circulate all engine components otherwise nil benefit to changing the oil.

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by Ballsnall

I agree, you need to run the engine to have the new oil fully circulate all engine components otherwise nil benefit to changing the oil.

Agreed. If doing a cold change I'd do it before winterizing, not after for that reason.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by Mike OReilly

I say no... no reason. A two+ hr run on new oil won't make any substantive difference.

As others have said, you could do the oil change on the hard if you're setting up to run the engine for a duration. IOW, you have raw water running through the intake system. Obviously you can't run the engine for long without doing this.

I've always used the "green" antifreeze when winterizing, but I know others who use standard plumber's antifreeze, and it seems fine. I learned how to winterize my boats back when I cruised in seriously cold areas (northern Lake Superior). Everyone did it this way, so I've just continued. I've since moved to slightly warmer waters (southern Ontario, then Newfoundland), so I'm sure the "pink" stuff would be fine.

I buy cheap tractor antifreeze for the raw water circuit. I run “saltaway “ through it first. Then 3:1anti freeze dilution. Good down to -20 degrees C.

[Mike OReilly]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

I buy cheap tractor antifreeze for the raw water circuit. I run “saltaway “ through it first. Then 3:1anti freeze dilution. Good down to -20 degrees C.

Even in the “warmer” areas I’ve cruised, I aim for around -45ºC, just to be sure.

[valhalla360]

I like to do the oil change with an hour or two of run time after, so all the old acidic oil is flushed and diluted with fresh oil before sitting for months.

For winterizing, I wouldn't worry about getting up to temp. Idling for a few minutes to pass the antifreeze thru the system won't create a noticeable amount of condensation inside the motor.

I would vote for using the pink stuff (non-toxic fresh water system antifreeze).
- I puddle of the green stuff (automotive antifreeze) on the ground is sweet tasting but highly toxic, so if anyone's pet gets near it, they may wind up dead.
- It's probably illegal to dump toxic automotive antifreeze into a waterway.
- The Pink Stuff is cheaper per gallon anyway (paid $4gal a couple weeks ago). Used straight is good down to something like -50F (pre-diluted automotive is only rated for -35F...at $20/gal)
- Also, means I only have to buy one type, so if I'm a little short on the fresh water system, I can use the remaining engine winterizing antifreeze to finish the job. (this is different from the antifreeze in the closed loop cooling system which should follow the manufacturer's requirements)