Change filter and bleed. Scared!

[joeniver]

Originally Posted by trikola

I would add one point to the start of your list: make sure your start battery is fully charged and in reasonably good condition. You may need to crank more than normally. Best to have shore power during the procedure.

Yup. Full charged batteries. On shore power.
Kingston Sea Cock closed.
I will filter my diesel fuel with a coffee strainer.

Thanks for your help.

[joeniver]

I don't understand. You put a free flow faucet pump between the two filters. The Racor and the one before the injector.

What does this do? Does it let you take out clean diesel to pour into the new filter in the cup? Or does it have another job?

thanks for your help!

[sailcrazy]

I mounted the faucet pump between the external (first) filter and the engine-mounted filter. With the pump, I can pull fuel thru the 1st filter, push it into and thru the eng-mounted filter, and up to the inj pump. It makes bleeding the system a piece of cake, and if I lost the eng driven pump, it's a backup to keep thing running. And if it's not powered, fuel just flows thru it, without restriction.

[NYSail]

Had a 3gm35f...... process sounds good. I always empty filter housing and wipe clean then refill. After you bleed at the injector pump you should be fine. This engine is not self bleeding (my new 4JH4E is!).

Do not over-tighten bleed screws......

Easy job.....

[kev_rm]

The last racor change I did, I only primed enough to get about 1/4 bowl. You need to think about whether or not there is a real chance of air introduction. 4JHE

[NorthCoastJoe]

My Yanmar 3gm30F .. fill racor 500 with fuel, primary filter is tiny next to the Racor, then pull the vent hose from the tank. Blow air into the tank with my lungs. Let fuel run through the return lines back to the tank. Start engine runs normal, No problems, Simple no special tools or mess.

[blueprint_33]

As said b4, there is no reason to be afraid of bleeding; the opposite is true you should know how to do it. Done it on Yanmar, Volvos, Bukh, Mercedes

Process can be shortened, but I always do it by hand even on my Bukh which is definitely self bleeding.
1. Take out the filter filter element, find a bucket to put it beneath the cup beforehand
2. Add the new filter element and if you choose to do so fill in some diesel to save time pumping; the element will soak up some fuel ibut it is minimal anyway.
3. Close and tighten the cup, then open the bleed valve on the top of the filter case.
4. Put a piece of cloth around the valve, so that it will absorb fuel coming out.
5. Make sure the crankshaft is in a position that allows the hand pump to work properly; you must be able to push-down the lever all the way and you must feel some resistance when pumping; if this is not possible turn the crankshaft by some 90° (this the only mistake you may make, not having the shaft in the right position limits the way of the lever of the pump and you may not be able to bleed the system properly), then pump until the fuel gets out of the valve without bubbles. Doesn't take long, the pump though small manages a volume of of some 10/l/hr! Close the valve,
6. Repeat this with the bleed valve on the injection pump, open it, pump by hand, close the valve. Don't fuzz at the injectors, no need to and don't even start the bleeding process at the injectors (as some "experts" out there recommend)!

I know there are people that recommend cranking the engine for bleeding. Possible but not a good idea! If for one reason the engine doesn't fire quickly you will fill up the exhaust with water, eventually and potentially flooding the lowest cylinder. I know there are experts who prevent this happening by closing the water intake but.. ..then they forget to open it again. Or.. my friend was doing it on a 3-cyl Yanmar at anchor (he had run out of fuel and poured spare fuel into the tank from a can and the engine wouldn't fire). He was earning and cranking until he had sucked a big jelly fish all the way up into the water strainer... what a mess..... So crank manually but do it right.

[Chotu]

@blueprint, has it right. It's that easy. Exactly how I've always done it. There is never a need to do anything with the high pressure side when changing a filter.

[NYSail]

Originally Posted by sailcrazy

Following. Even though I've watched mechanics change the filter(s), they have never done any purging the air out of the lines.....they just hit the start button and my 4JH-TE starts! Like the OP, I've always been nervous and reluctant to change the filters....just in case. To assist, I bought a small free-flow faucet pump and installed it between the 2 filters. And so far, no issues!!!

The jh series self bleed

[EmeraldCoastSailor]

one step I didn’t see was to cut off fuel supply from tank to filter before changing primary filter. And I would skip the step to presoak new filter. On my Yanmar 2008 3YM30 bleeding at secondary filter is all that is required.

[joeniver]

Well I did it. With this forums help I was able to change the on engine fuel filter.

I had some diesel, rags, good lighting, warmed up engine, on shore power, new filter ready, all relevant nuts cracked, a quick prayer and I was off!

Bled a little from the fuel filter assembly so I know the finger pump would work.
Unscrewed the ring on the filter cup.
Dumped the filter and the fuel into a container.
Looked in the cup and there must have been 5/16" of black, black sludge. What is this from?
Got a brush and brushed the sludge around in some new diesel. It took a few tries to get to the bottom of the cup and to get it clean.
Used a lint free cloth to wipe the cup clean.
I am thinking that the PO just took the filter out and put the new one in and poured in diesel. Filter was in fairly good shape.
Put the new filter in. Filled to the brim with new diesel.
Screwed the retaining ring on to the fuel filter housing and tightened.
Started finger pumping the lift pump. Opened the bleed screw a bit.
Now here is the weird part: It took 40 or more pumps and finally bubbles and fuel started to come out. Just surprised it took so many pumps.
Kept pumping till no more bubbles. Found I could get a few more tiny bubbles out with a close and open while pumping. Very startled at the size of the air bubbles. TINY!
Did the same on the bleed screw on the injector pump. And as you guys said, no bubbles came out.
Went on deck and started the engine. It started right away.
But you could hear the engine making slightly different rpms as it shook out some of the left overr bubbles? I am guessing.
After a minute it was purring like a kitten!
Love my diesel!

Thanks all

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by joeniver

Well I did it. With this forums help I was able to change the on engine fuel filter.

I had some diesel, rags, good lighting, warmed up engine, on shore power, new filter ready, all relevant nuts cracked, a quick prayer and I was off!

Bled a little from the fuel filter assembly so I know the finger pump would work.
Unscrewed the ring on the filter cup.
Dumped the filter and the fuel into a container.
Looked in the cup and there must have been 5/16" of black, black sludge. What is this from?
Got a brush and brushed the sludge around in some new diesel. It took a few tries to get to the bottom of the cup and to get it clean.
Used a lint free cloth to wipe the cup clean.
I am thinking that the PO just took the filter out and put the new one in and poured in diesel. Filter was in fairly good shape.
Put the new filter in. Filled to the brim with new diesel.
Screwed the retaining ring on to the fuel filter housing and tightened.
Started finger pumping the lift pump. Opened the bleed screw a bit.
Now here is the weird part: It took 40 or more pumps and finally bubbles and fuel started to come out. Just surprised it took so many pumps.
Kept pumping till no more bubbles. Found I could get a few more tiny bubbles out with a close and open while pumping. Very startled at the size of the air bubbles. TINY!
Did the same on the bleed screw on the injector pump. And as you guys said, no bubbles came out.
Went on deck and started the engine. It started right away.
But you could hear the engine making slightly different rpms as it shook out some of the left overr bubbles? I am guessing.
After a minute it was purring like a kitten!
Love my diesel!

Thanks all

Awesome job!
I seem to remember there was an o-ring involved, my 2gm20 in a previous vessel, on the primary filter housing, came in the kit.
Did you see one?
If so maybe you replaced it, if not, it'll be fine.
Sludge maybe from your tank or was in the secondary FF if you have one
SV Cloud Duster

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by joeniver

Well I did it.

Terrific. We've all had a first time.

[joeniver]

Originally Posted by Boatyarddog

Awesome job!
I seem to remember there was an o-ring involved, my 2gm20 in a previous vessel, on the primary filter housing, came in the kit.
Did you see one?
If so maybe you replaced it, if not, it'll be fine.
Sludge maybe from your tank or was in the secondary FF if you have one
SV Cloud Duster

Yes there was an "O" ring under the collar that secures the cup. I did not have one in the package. Will order for next change.
Thanks

[DanaTucker]

Very well done! I am curious as to how much stress you went through before receiving any advice? I only ask as my own personal experience used to keep me up at night, when I had to do something on the boat for the first time. That was way before Google was even thought of. Now, it is communities like this that help me sleep the nite away!