Are ignition keys pointless in the cockpit?

[hpeer]

I have not been convinced. It sounds like folks who don’t want a key either have a bad control panel placement OR live where theft is a concern.

[goboatingnow]

I have a button marked “ start “ what could be simpler

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by rls8r

One thing to keep in mind when going from key to no-key is how to excite the alternator when starting. Usually (as I understand things) is that the 'start' setting of the key switch provides current to the alternator to get it charging and cuts the current to the alternator when it moves to the 'run' setting. With no "start" key - I installed an oil pressure switch that provides current to the alternator when there's no oil pressure (i.e., while the engine is starting, but before it starts) and cuts off the current after the engine starts and oil pressure builds.

Alternator excitation is not provided by the 'START' section of the switch. It is usually provided by the 'ON' of the switch via the charge warning light. The excitation wire remains connected (via the charge light) all time the switch is 'ON'.

Note the warning light must be an incandescent style (ie with a filament) which allows the excitation current to flow through it (illuminating it). When the alternator begins to provide an output, this current ceases and the light extinguishes. If a LED charge warning light is fitted, it will need a parallel resistor to allow for the initial excitation current to 'bypass' the LED.

While your arrangement will provide suitable excitation, do you have a charge warning light and how did you connect it?

[rls8r]

"While your arrangement will provide suitable excitation, do you have a charge warning light and how did you connect it?"

Thanks for improving my understanding - I appreciate it.

I do not have a charge warning light. I have a voltmeter on the engine panel and I also have a Balmar ARS-5 voltage regulator that can provide (again, as I understand things) charging information.

[MC4Sunz]

I have been wanting to do this for a while for many of the same reasons from others but also because access to the key and glow plug switch is a pain because of the control panel cover.

I didn't see anything mentioned in previous posts but wonder if anyone that has switched to keyless or remote key, what switches did you use in your cockpit? If you have links with some specs, that would be great.

[rwidman]

You could:

1) Replace the key switch with a simple push button switch.

2) Keep the key switch but install a hook nearby where you could keep the key in case you need it.

[PerfectPirate]

First let me just thank everyone for the excellent feedback and different perspectives, and also for the tales of your own experiences.

My own approach is that I am shifting the Yanmar keyed ignition switch into the cabin, to act as a cut-off switch for when we leave the boat in a marina. I will also wire it up to act as an alternative start switch for when I am trying to deglitch engine problems. In the cockpit, I will be installing a manual ignition/start switch into the same hole where the keyed switch was. The ignition circuit will be wired in series with the cabin cutoff switch and the start circuits will be wired in parallel. That way, both switches will need to be on for the engine to run, but it can be started from either the cabin or the cockpit.

For those who are interested, the switch which I settled on for the cockpit location is: Cole Hersee Anti-Restart Ignition Switch, Part No. 956-3124BX. I'll let you know how it all works out, whenever I finally get to do it.

Wishing you all fair winds and calm seas!

[CarinaPDX]

I have used a Caterpillar start switch because the old engine's key switch was used to directly switch the glow plug power and the starter solenoid - high current loads. First do some research and determine what current is needed for your glow plugs, starter solenoid, and run power then check specs for your potential switch. These diesel start switches are designed for the high loads - few pushbuttons and other panel switches are up to the task. Of course it you are just switching relays on/near the engine then a lightweight switch is fine.

Greg

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by Tanqueray

No, but my Marina security guys aren’t nearly as sharp as the TSA or other authorities keeping security at an airfield….




Greg

lol You have clearly only been to major international airports. The vast majority of airports have a single 5' chain link fence, none to dubious lighting, no security staff, and no one at all around after 8pm.

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Alternator excitation is not provided by the 'START' section of the switch. It is usually provided by the 'ON' of the switch via the charge warning light. The excitation wire remains connected (via the charge light) all time the switch is 'ON'.

Note the warning light must be an incandescent style (ie with a filament) which allows the excitation current to flow through it (illuminating it). When the alternator begins to provide an output, this current ceases and the light extinguishes. If a LED charge warning light is fitted, it will need a parallel resistor to allow for the initial excitation current to 'bypass' the LED.

While your arrangement will provide suitable excitation, do you have a charge warning light and how did you connect it?

This is an excellent point which was brought home to me this past weekend. After starting the engine, the key can be turned back and removed. The engine remains running, the alternator is no longer changing AND the "push to stop" button doesn't work.

I can't STOP the engine without the key.

[chrisr]

just by the by, our (diesel) generator does not have a key to start. simple 3 position selector switch 'manual / off / automatic', plus a push-to-start button

don't see why similar wouldn't work on larger diesels...

cheers,