Light airs, short handed

[bobnlesley]

Originally Posted by Jammer

...practical approach to light airs...particularly given that I often sail shorthanded. That is, either by myself or with crew that don't leave the cockpit... I don't race, I just don't like to motor. Advice welcome.

I'm assuming that you're thinking of off-wind sailing; light airs are the only time sailing to windward ever approaches being 'fun'. Our ploy, particularly offshore and most especially at night - playing around on the foredeck with the poles in darkness and big seas whilst 500 miles from land is not to our taste:

Get the mainsail down/secured and ignore it - we've completed many multi-day, downwind passages during which ours has never seen the light of day - and whilst it's still daylight (better still, before you even leave the dock) rig a gybe preventer to your mainsail's boom, a block to the stern end of your boom and a second set of sheets to your genoa that run outside everything.

How it works - without anyone leaving the cockpit: Thread the 'spare' sheet at the appropriate side through the block at the boom end and tag it loosely to a handy and strong/secure cleat, then ease the mainsheet right off and using the gybe preventer, haul the boom out as far as it will go and secure it out there. Tighten-up your 'working' sheet, then take up the slack in the spare one reeved via the boom-end and then ease off the working sheet on the winch; voila, your genoa is now 'poled out'. To adjust its set in really light winds you can usually just haul-in around the cleat (easing out's never a problem) but if the winds are a bit stronger, just tighten the original sheet on the winch until you get some 'slack', take that up on the cleat, then ease off on the winch again.

If yuo need to change tack, simply return the load to the everyday sheet, re-centre the boom, switch over to the other 'spare' sheet and haul out the boom to the opposite side (all done from the cockpit) then gybe/tack as normal. If the wind comes further abeam or picks-up, the headsail will still roll in as normal and if you don't want to use the boom/pole anymore, just ease off that spare sheet and gybe preventer, haul the boom back into the centre and sail as normal; the only thing to watch for is that you don't forget to check that those two extra sheets are inboard and secure when you start the engine.

I atually thought I'd 'invented' the technique one night off the coast of Morocco, but some one subsequently drew my attention to an article (I think it might've been by Don Street?) about 'the poor-man's pole'.

Not the fastest way to sail, but safe and simple.

[bobnlesley]

Originally Posted by fxykty

Light air needs more sail area...

Not always: It's counter-intuitive, but on our first ocean crossing we eventually discovered that in light tail winds and big seas/swells (conditions we term 'more sea than wind' and encounter often when offshore) you actually need to reef the sails. You're broad reaching/running in 6-8 knots of breeze and the boat's speed slowly climbs to perhaps 4 or 4.5 knots at which point you 'outrun' the wind and as the next swell rolls you and spills the remaining wind from your sail everything clatters, bangs and the boat speed quickly drops off to less than two knots. At this point the wind 'catches-up' again, refills your sail with another clatter & bang after which the speed slowly climbs to 4 - 4.5 knots before repeating; it gets wearing after only a couple of hours and has really stopped being fun after a couple of days!

The answer: lose the mainsail if it's still up and reef a preferably poled-out head sail down until your maximum speed is only 3.5 -4 knots - hours of fun can be had in tweaking the sail to discover and maintain what the 'maximum without out-running the wind' speed is. So though your top speed is now significantly reduced, without the regular sail-collapses, the average speed's actually higher and you've gone right to the very top of your sails and rigs' Christmas Card list.

[fxykty]

@bobnlesley good points regarding downwind in light air in open ocean. I’m not sure if that’s what the OP is asking about as it sounded like he’s relatively inexperienced and asking about day sailing and coastal.

In flat water sail area is king. On the ocean on a downwind passage get rid of the main and use just a genoa (good idea earlier of using the main boom as a pole rather than a whisker/spinnaker pole). Poled out a genoa won’t flog too much. Reaching or upwind though you will use the main and more sail area helps in light winds, and your increased speed will increase apparent wind.

[peter loveridge]

I've tried everything. In Nova Scotia, almost always a swell offshore. Any sort of spinnaker in wind less than 5 knots requires constant attention. I now have a radial head drifter mounted on a roller furling ahead of the jib. Has to be rolled in to tack, but otherwise works great, Earlier this week sailed 20 miles back to harbour in wind never more than three knots ( took 8 hours)when my transmission failed, and my boat is a heavy 1930's design, not a lightweight flyer.

[roberthowell]

I did not c if anyone mentioned an asymmetrical spinnaker which are easy to manage single handed and have lots of sail area and can b set in a wide number of degree angles

[boatman61]

What you need is an asymetric spinnaker with a single line reefing system.. works a treat..
Used one on a TransPac, Panama to Oz on a 54ftr and it was good for winds upto F5..
You then unfurl the genoa and furl the spinnny in its shadow to be left up or taken down at your leisure.
Some like using a sock but I consider it to much windage both in leaving it up or dropping it.. a well furled spinnaker however is a doddle.

[Jammer]

Thank you all for the replies.

Originally Posted by GuyFromTheNorth

Air direction is a big decider on this.

I'm mainly interested in solving the off-the-wind portion of the problem.

Originally Posted by Tayana42

Jammer, where you sail and how long you are likely to be on one heading plays a big role in deciding about light wind sails. The Mississippi, Lake Peppin I would just use the Yankees, staysail and main. My boat is a 42’ cutter so very like what you are contemplating. [....]

Thanks for all that.

Originally Posted by bobnlesley

I'm assuming that you're thinking of off-wind sailing; light airs are the only time sailing to windward ever approaches being 'fun'. [...poling out the genoa with the main boom....]

Thanks, I wasn't aware of that approach.

Originally Posted by boatman61

What you need is an asymetric spinnaker with a single line reefing system.. works a treat..

I've received quite a lot of similar advice, thanks. I'm assuming that the roller system you mention would be used for furling, not reefing.

[boatman61]

Originally Posted by Jammer

Thank you all for the replies.






I'm mainly interested in solving the off-the-wind portion of the problem.





Thanks for all that.





Thanks, I wasn't aware of that approach.





I've received quite a lot of similar advice, thanks. I'm assuming that the roller system you mention would be used for furling, not reefing.

You dont reef spinnakers, its all in, or all out.

[fxykty]

Originally Posted by boatman61

You dont reef spinnakers, its all in, or all out.

Nor any code sails, gennakers, screechers and any other soft luff sails using endless line furling drums - none of these can be partially furled.

You can partially furl any sail if it’s on a uni-direction drum furler, like what you see at the bottom of a jib or genoa.

[boatman61]

Originally Posted by fxykty

Nor any code sails, gennakers, screechers and any other soft luff sails using endless line furling drums - none of these can be partially furled.

You can partially furl any sail if it’s on a uni-direction drum furler, like what you see at the bottom of a jib or genoa.

You can partially furl a single line furler, just tie off the bight.
However its silly to do so as if one reefs for winds stronger than the sail is designed for your potentially gonna have to buy a new sail.
Just unfurl the genoa and furl the spinnaker.. its not difficult.. Honest.

[Islander53]

Asymmetrical Spinnaker on a top down furler , with removable bowsprit is the hot ticket. Easily single handed. I run a harken reflex with a big asymmetrical Spinnaker , I'm always single handed even when I'm not. .

One day soon I plan to add a solent rig. I'll Keep a furled & covered 150 gen on the forstay, either 120 high clew or %90 blade on the solent, removeable inner forestay with Hank on oversized stay sail and storm jib. Then a big a-sym Spinnaker on a top down and removable bowsprit... The best of every situation all easily single handed even on big boats.

[Sofa King Fishy]

Originally Posted by Jammer

I guess what I'm asking is -- does it make sense to have one or more light air sails in that situation? -- and if so, which ones?

Howdy- I had the same question when I moved aboard my Catalina 42 on the Chessie this summer. After speaking with dock mates & a few delivery captains, I got the impression my 135% Genoa was more than enough for light winds , so I took a Code Zero off my wish list...I single hand almost 100% of the time & I’ve found the full Genoa to be easy to handle in winds from 2 - 20 knots. Should I have a few thousand bucks in the future, I might pick up a top furling Code Zero for extending cruising, but, I suggest sailing what you end up with first- works for me!

[Zzmeyer]

Lots of good advice. I'd go with a used asymmetrical spinnaker with a sock. Good performance, reasonable priced. I have a code 0 on my new boat and it is perhaps the most expensive option. Easier to use than my asym, but substantially more expense. While the cost of the sail wasn't significantly greater, the furler and the hardware to lead the lines aft are expensive. It also is not as efficient downwind, but as previously said tends to get used more as it is easier to handle. Other options include adding a whisker pole and going wing on wing. However, dead downwind is not particularly fast, especially in light wind. Three cheap go fast options include a clean bottom, properly trimmed sails, and sailing the fastest direction for the wind and sea conditions. I've done 9 offshore rallies and lots of offshore races and while the racers trim nicely and maximize VMG, I'm a bit surprised the "cruisers" don't make a better effort at maximizing speed. Very easy to do single-handed and costs next to nothing. A bit more expensive, but will add significantly to your speed on all points of sail is a folding or feathering prop.

[Lucid]

Originally Posted by Jammer

I'm planning on moving to a bigger boat soon and am wondering what the best approach is to light airs. My 25' boat has hank-on sails and when there isn't much wind I hank on the largest foresail I have and make the best of it.


I'm looking at a move to a ~40' boat, either cutter rigged or a masthead sloop. There will be roller furling this time . I'm wondering what the best, most practical approach to light airs is in boats like that, particularly given that I often sail shorthanded. That is, either by myself or with crew that don't leave the cockpit.


I am wondering what light air sail or sails are most appropriate, and trying to understand whether they take the place of the genoa (or yankee) on the roller, or require their own stay, or can be flown with a free luff.


Trying to take a holistic approach and understand the overall solutions and their tradeoffs. I don't race, I just don't like to motor. Advice welcome.

I mounted a code zero made from laminate it points higher than nylon and is easy enough to single hand and can stay up with a sun shield on it. I have had good luck with mine so far