Water level in Jabsco Marine Head

[DaddaTony]

Hi All,

I have replaced and installed a new 12V electric Jabsco Marine head 37010-3092 when it was causing me problem believing it was time to replace. My problem is the water level (why I replaced it with new in the first place). The toilet is evacuating waste with the normal flush vortex but the level of the water rises to a point that I do a work around by limiting the inlet water which obviously drops the water level so it not sloshing all over the head floor.

Any suggestions where I can start looking for a permanent fix?

Cheers!

[Reefmagnet]

Hello! Do you have a syphon break on the inlet?

[DaddaTony]

No I don't and never has it appears.

[Reefmagnet]

Could possibly be the problem so it might be a good idea to fit one. You're not supposed to have a syphon break on the suction side, because it will allow the drawing in of air when in operation and this usually means mounting it between the pump and bowl instead.

This was too much like hard work for me, so I mounted an anti syphon valve on the suction side and we just stuck our finger over the valve every time we flushed. I modified it recently with an electric valve that closes when flushing. Cost me about 20 bucks in bits for the mod.

[DaddaTony]

Just went up to Chandlery store on bought one installed it prior to reading your reply on the water inlet side and it has dropped the level and seems to be working perfectly now. Will keep in mind the solenoid setup you mentioned.

Thank you very much for your reply.

Cheers DaddaTony.

[Reefmagnet]

[peghall]

Somebody didn't read the installation instructions...You'll find the solution to your problem in "Plumbing Connections" on the first page: Jabsco 37010 owners manual


If any of it isn't clear, I'll be glad to sort it out for you.

--Peggie

[peghall]

If you install the vented loop in the line that connects the pump/motor assembly to the bowl instead of in the line from the thru-hull to the pump/motor assembly, you shouldn't need the solenoid valve...and you won't have to put your finger over the hole in the top of the loop (which SHOULD have an air valve in it anyway...see photo. It's a very inexpensive part, unlike the solenoid valve). You would have to replace that short piece of hose with hoses long enough to put the loop at the recommended height.



--Peggie

[psk125]

We had a similar “high water” issue with our head, despite having a siphon break in the line. The joker valve was leaking. Not fun to replace, but effective.

[trikola]

Joker valves have a livetime of one year or at most two years before they start to leak according to my experience. It seems to be a problem of the material.

[DaddaTony]

Thanks Peghall,

I am a male who reads the instructions

What I did was just replace old for new I didn't do anything with the existing plumbing so more than likely the problem was the plumbing not the bowl which cost me about $Au650 for the experience.

After reading the instructions I note the 8" above the base of the bowl for above water line installs. Mine did have a tall loop but no vented loop (which I have now installed) and it seems to be working fine. I might lower the loop (once I can confirm waterline height) and see if much changes.

Bowl certainly now drains completely and refills at rest to about ~2" in the bowl.

Thanks for the gentle nudge