Labor Estimate for Cutless and PSS Seal

[kev_rm]

Looking for a sanity check on a yard estimate for replacing a cutlass bearing and a PSS seal. Maxprop if it matters. hours, not rate.

what you got charged, not a guess if you don't mind.

thanks

[billknny]

I assume you'll need to pull the maxprop and the shaft.

These numbers are based on what it takes me to do this, and I am pretty familiar with the various parts. There are a lot of variables, and if I was giving you an estimate ahead of time, I'd double this number, and hopefully you'd be pleasantly surprised at billing time...

To disassemble and pull the maxprop, 1 hour. To reassemble at the end, 1 hour.

To pull the shaft, 1.5 hours, but this really varies depending on access and state of the fasteners. To reinstall and check alignment, 2 hours, again a really fuzzy number.

To remove and reinstall a cutlass bearing from a strut, 1.5 hours.

In install a PSS seal, 3 hours.

Basically about 10 hours. I'd estimate 20 hours, and charge you what ever it actually took.

[kev_rm]

TIL how boat mechanics behave.

Originally Posted by billknny

I assume you'll need to pull the maxprop and the shaft.

These numbers are based on what it takes me to do this, and I am pretty familiar with the various parts. There are a lot of variables, and if I was giving you an estimate ahead of time, I'd double this number, and hopefully you'd be pleasantly surprised at billing time...

To disassemble and pull the maxprop, 1 hour. To reassemble at the end, 1 hour.

To pull the shaft, 1.5 hours, but this really varies depending on access and state of the fasteners. To reinstall and check alignment, 2 hours, again a really fuzzy number.

To remove and reinstall a cutlass bearing from a strut, 1.5 hours.

In install a PSS seal, 3 hours.

Basically about 10 hours. I'd estimate 20 hours, and charge you what ever it actually took.

[stormalong]

If your boat is out of the water for the season this is a very good DIY project.

If there is clearance pull the shaft with out removing the prop it will save you a lot of time but you might want to take the opportunity to clean out the old grease and inspect it. If the prop has to come off and it is a two blade one person can disassemble/reassemble, for a three blade classic two people are needed for a few minutes of the reassembly and in either case you must know the settings.

Depending on access to the shaft coupling and cutlass bearing the PSS install may take a long time. If it is a V drive transmission the tranny may have to be removed. The hardest part of the job is just being able to reach it and get the old packing gland off.

If the cutlass bearing is on a P strut it is easier to get it off. There are probably four setscrews holding it in.

None of this is very complicated but it can be time consuming for a first timer. My boat, also a Bob Perry design has a V drive and a P strut and I have done both of these jobs more than once.

[kev_rm]

Awesome, thank you - my boat is a straight shaft drive and the shaft coupling and seal are both easily accessible in my boat so I think the only complex piece will be the maxprop. I have been thinking about diy'ing this over the last couple days and probably will do that.

Images:

Originally Posted by stormalong

If your boat is out of the water for the season this is a very good DIY project.

If there is clearance pull the shaft with out removing the prop it will save you a lot of time but you might want to take the opportunity to clean out the old grease and inspect it. If the prop has to come off and it is a two blade one person can disassemble/reassemble, for a three blade classic two people are needed for a few minutes of the reassembly and in either case you must know the settings.

Depending on access to the shaft coupling and cutlass bearing the PSS install may take a long time. If it is a V drive transmission the tranny may have to be removed. The hardest part of the job is just being able to reach it and get the old packing gland off.

If the cutlass bearing is on a P strut it is easier to get it off. There are probably four setscrews holding it in.

None of this is very complicated but it can be time consuming for a first timer. My boat, also a Bob Perry design has a V drive and a P strut and I have done both of these jobs more than once.

[Bill O]

The instructions for removing/reinstalling a MaxProp are straight forward and have good videos showing how to do it. Once you do it you'll get past that bump and wonder why you didn't do it before.
Quick question though, why do you have an anode attached to the shaft inside the boat?
Also noticed like many of the dripless shaft seals, you do not a water feed from the motor to the seal, so be sure to "burb" the seal to release the trapped air when you splash the boat again (before motoring out of the lift area).


Bill O.

[kev_rm]

That anode is a safety device for the set screws on the PSS. This is my first boat with PSS but my surveyor said that was a best practice (either that or a hose clamp on the shaft)

Originally Posted by Bill O

The instructions for removing/reinstalling a MaxProp are straight forward and have good videos showing how to do it. Once you do it you'll get past that bump and wonder why you didn't do it before.
Quick question though, why do you have an anode attached to the shaft inside the boat?
Also noticed like many of the dripless shaft seals, you do not a water feed from the motor to the seal, so be sure to "burb" the seal to release the trapped air when you splash the boat again (before motoring out of the lift area).


Bill O.

[Bill O]

Originally Posted by kev_rm

That anode is a safety device for the set screws on the PSS. This is my first boat with PSS but my surveyor said that was a best practice (either that or a hose clamp on the shaft)

OK seems reasonable.

[stormalong]

OK, you are just replacing the bellows and maybe refinishing the SS ring. Looks like you have had some seepage from the seal. The face of the ring can be skimmed and polished if it has any pitting. I had that done a few years ago. PYI sells a kit with a new bellows, hose clamps, O rings and set screws. You need to know the OD of your shaft log.

When the boat splashes you should burp the seal to get trapped air out. Otherwise the seal can overheat.

[drapem1]

Just completed this entire project - new shaft seal and cutless bearing. We replaced the brand of shaft seal from Tides Marine to LasDrop II and as such noticed the shaft alignment was slightly off, so pulled the Vari-Prop (cleaned, inspected, greased), removed shaft and polished, removed old cutless and replaced; reassembled all parts, then finished aligning the shaft at the couplers (this actually was most time consuming as we loosened the engine mounts to get the specs precise). Total time was 16 hours (mechanic and a helper)

[bituman]

I just had my cutlass bearing and shaft seal replaced last month here in South Florida. Conventional prop was pulled, shaft removed and cleaned up then all was reinstalled. Labor was 10 hours and included alignment.

[rbk]

I did my own last fall with conventional prop, swapped out packing gland for PSS, no issues with stuck bolts or coupler (used gear puller). Actual time to remove/replace cutlass, install PSS with modified packing gland and reinstall shaft w/new coupler, reinstall prop was less than 3 hours. No machining was required.

[saillr]

I assume you need to replace the cutlass and therefor might as well go Dripless.
Why in the world would you replace a time proven, reliable, simple method of keeping water out of the boat via the shaft seal with a complex system that will need service and adjustment and eventual replacement? (and could sink your boat)
When i got my new Island Packet 40 over 30 years ago I replaced the standard stuffing with Teflon impregnated stuffing. It has never leaked a drop since. About 5 years ago I did notice one drip so tightened about 1/8 turn and it has been dry and cool ever since.
Ask anyone who has used Teflon infused stuffing and you will be amazed.
Save your money.

[GILow]

Originally Posted by kev_rm

That anode is a safety device for the set screws on the PSS. This is my first boat with PSS but my surveyor said that was a best practice (either that or a hose clamp on the shaft)

Absolutely agree. I do the same and I reckon they should include the anode in the PSS kit when you buy it!

[seadago]

I've just been quoted 16 hours labour for replacing the prop shaft, cutlass bearing and dripless gland, @ 50 euros/hour in Brest, France. This includes shifting the engine forward in the bay to allow access to the dripless though. I have already removed the rudder and old prop, and loosened the cutlass bearing, about 3 hours work, and will replace myself when the job is done, so your estimate of +- 10 hours is on the ball park.