how do these keel bolts and thru hulls look to you?

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Three Sisters

Attachment 165106

This keel bolt nut looks to have been removed at some point and clear silicone applied. You can see it curled up at the base of the nut. If accurate I couldn't tell ya the degree of importance.

Good eyes!

[NevisDog]

Originally Posted by chris95040

[emoji23]Where do you people come up with this stuff?

Just my experience. I purchased a wooden boat with iron keel and surveyor said he wasn't able to assess the condition of the keelbolts. Insurance co said they must be inspected. I tackled the easiest one first - couldn't move it due to rust. Finally had to slide a hacksaw blade between oak floors (frames) and the timber keel, expecting it would take me a few days to slice off the top half so I could hammer out the bottom half with a drift. I cut through it in minutes - only about a mm or so of iron left holding up the keel. So glad the insurance co insisted on it. The other galvanised bolts were in the same rusted condition - almost nothing left holding the ballast keel in place.

[Recy]

Originally Posted by robert sailor

Normally the stud is a bit longer and you double nut it and then use a socket with a cheater bar. In the situation you took a picture of...many times there is enough friction from the rust that the nut will stay attached and the stud will back out...If this doesn't happen and the nut comes off simply remove that heavy washer below the nut and that should be enough stud to allow you to double nut it.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by robert sailor

I'm curious...what would you learn by dropping the keel that you wouldn't know by inspecting the studs????

You presume you can get them out, when most often the floor is built over them and there is no way to get them out due to no room to work at it. Also, if a cast iron keel they may be rusted in. If a lead keel they may be J studs which aren't coming out at all.
But by all means if they will come out that would be great! Seeing silicone on that nut, I would presume they may be seeping water, which will require dropping the keel to reseal.

[Tessellate]

Originally Posted by CarlF

And before I worried about the seacocks, I'd replace that hose. It really never should have been installed below the waterline. And only one clamp.

If you look closely at the picture it looks like there are actually two clamps - in the lower right I see what looks like the head of a 2nd hose clamp.

I'm curious how people can condemn the hose without knowing the brand, type or condition of it. I agree clear hose is uncommon for the 80's era, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's not below waterline rated does it?
Trident 147 has a similar clear appearance with wire helix reinforcement and is below waterline rated: Trident Trident VAC XHD Bilge & Live Well Hose - #147 -

[robert sailor]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

You presume you can get them out, when most often the floor is built over them and there is no way to get them out due to no room to work at it. Also, if a cast iron keel they may be rusted in. If a lead keel they may be J studs which aren't coming out at all.
But by all means if they will come out that would be great! Seeing silicone on that nut, I would presume they may be seeping water, which will require dropping the keel to reseal.

Those are all fair comments for a generic question in this case it was a Moody 425 and the studs can easily pulled...even the very odd one with rust. That said you are of course correct that should a stud be found corroded then the keel needs to be resealed.
I tried to cover that by suggesting that the buyer be around when the boat was pulled to ensure that no water was seeping from the joint which is pretty much a guarantee that the seal has been compromised.