Buying used rigging help

[chubasco]

Greetings boat freaks,

I'm restoring a 35 ft 1967 Piver Lodestar. I would like some advice on finding and installing used rigging as my boat came with none.
Firstly, can anyone give me some links to salvage boat yards where I could find a complete rig cut for a multi hull? You would think that after all these hurricanes the internet would be chock-full of them but I can't find anything.
Secondly, I did purchase a tapered racing mast with matching sails off a damaged 35-foot Monohull. My goal was to retrofit some of the standing rigging to extend and accommodate the connection points on the Ama's of my piver. One piver enthusiast discouraged me from my plan and said I should look for a complete rig off a multihull but I was unconvinced as to why. Any advice would be appreciated.
If you live in Florida I would even pay a guy to come council me or if you feel like getting out of the cold for a while come see me and I'll put you up!
Carpe diem!

[thomm225]

Rigging is one of the most important parts on the boat.

You might want to go ahead and buy new rigging since you are restoring the boat anyway

[FAST FRED]

Rigging does wear out , that is why it is scrapped .

Some folks use Norseman or Stay Lock end fittings that can be reused after removing them from the wire.

As your boat does not heal, the rigging must be oversized to handle puffs.

You might go to boatyards that do sail bots and walk around to se if there is scrap rigging , as always you have time or money.

With a multihull as they dont heal the weight of the rigging is less important.

I have seen both cats and tris rigged with heavy galvanized power company discards and the terminal ends were cable clamps or suitable compression fittings.

[chubasco]

Man! That is the first non-emotional, specifically logical advice I have received so far! And everything makes sense and even as a novice everything you said made me think if I have a mast with matching sails can the rigging be that big of a deal to acquire? I would rather spend more time than money ,I'm the quintessential mad Max. The utility company cable? I can't tell you how many times that comes across my radar and I always ask myself why not? I super appreciate you taking the time. Still, I'm trying to find those boneyards, any help out there?

[chubasco]

Any idea on the diameter of the cable. I'm seeing some various cables on Craigslist

[tkeithlu]

Fittings yes, cable no. You could do an economical job with reuseable fittings if you can find them. They are the most expensive part of the rig. Remember, in line with the very useful posts above, that any scrapped rig was scrapped for a reason. I learned that lesson the hard way by using surplus throttle and gear shift cables in my construction. Within a few months of launching, first the throttle went out in a crowded marina and then the gearshift went out while docking. I got out of both with no liability claims or damage. Demasting is an entirely worse story.

There is a marine salvage yard south of Clearwater that I have found useful for everything from tanks to fire hose.

[tkeithlu]

For new rigging cable Erigging.com has been my favorite. Good prices, excellent quality.

[psk125]

Would dyneema be easier? Utility cable may be difficult to work in the sizes that the loads on your rig call for. Your rigging needs to be custom-made anyway, what with your new-to-you mast. Used wire could have unseen problems that could result in you losing the mast: a false economy.

[chubasco]

I can see how throttle cables it said it would wear out over time. I can see how Rusty fittings or the ends of the cables where they meet the fittings suffering oxidation and fatigue. But speaking as a novice it's hard for me to imagine that the stranded cable itself getting so weak as to break. Am I missing something? I even considered extending the existing cable with the use of dyneema or even heavy-duty chain. Is that a crazy idea? Assuming that the stranded cable was in good shape which it appears to be, I'm talking about the existing cable that I have on the rig that I bought

[chubasco]

I was just writing a response when I saw the recommendation for dyneema. Is that worth considering? I heard it was unholy expensive. Someone mention to use dyneema as an extension to the original cable

[letsgetsailing3]

Get new rigging.


Save on the labor by doing it yourself.


Rigging is something you really want to not be worried about, and it does fail over time.

[charliehows]

for a 35' piver you'll probably want 8mm 19strand. I'd recommend getting it new from a lifting cable supplier, they'll cut and swage it with thimbles and if you get galvanised instead of stainless the cost is negligible. Your assumption that loads are heavier on a monohull because they heel is...uninformed. The loads on a multihulls rig can easily be catastrophic BECAUSE they DON'T heel. That's one lesson you don't want to learn the hard way.

[taylormobile]

Love this store - I go there every time I visit my mom. It is in Ft Lauderdale

https://www.sailorman.com/#/

Steve

[Dougtiff]

To save money, you could do DYNEEMA or NICOPRESS thimble's on to the wire, both can be done by yourself, my self, i would do DYNEEMA, if you went with thimble's, you can buy the swager on EBAY for under $50 buck's, also, with DYNEEMA you can eliminate the turnbuckle's, a big saving, ALSO, DYNEEMA saves alot of weight aloft, making the Piver Tri more stable, it's a win,win. [by the way, i knew Piver back in the 60'S, a friend was building one of his design's, and we visited him a few times for advice.]

[chris95040]

As has been mentioned above, the required strength of a rig depends largely on the stability of the ship it’s on. A tender monohull will readily heel which explains why they can use a weaker rig than a multihull of similar sail dimensions.

This, along with other non-intuitive features of a rig such as the critical load where buckling failure is possible (which is a complicated function of rigging attachment locations and mast cross section geometry) is why it is dangerous for an amateur enthusiast to slap a rig together without understanding the engineering.

Hiring a competent rigger will cost you a few hundred US dollars to get sound guidance on the rig dimensions (mast cross section, mast height, standing rigging arrangement).