Buying Islander 30 - rigging is old, but survey says good?

[foufou]

One place I have seen failure is the wood at the bulkhead where the chain plates are bolted. Any persistent water leak can rot the bulkhead and the chain plates are no longer attached to something solid.

[sailortype]

don't see any consideration of the bulkeads. If it has been leaking for years as evidenced by staining on the woodwork, the bulkheads may be rotted and require repair or complete replacement. I am just doing that now on an Ericson 35 and it is a very ugly job. And if you have to pay someone, it will be a very significant cost and they often have to dismantle a lot of the interior to get at them. Then you have to remantle it!
Even brand new rigging does nothing for you if it is attached to rotted bulkheads.

[sailortype]

seems we were typing at the same time.
Attached a pic of my starboard bulkead after many hours of removing cabinetry and chainplates... not going to hold much up in a blow. When chainplates were removed I could only see air where the core used to be. Persistent leaking will destroy core and bulkheads... you really should check this out

[Zomgie]

Appreciate everyone's comments.

I've decided to purchase the boat. The seller and I agreed on $11k. Most of the water damage seemed to be on the veneer and the underlying area seemed very solid. HOWEVER- first project is going to be getting all the standing rigging replaced. While the rigging is down, I'm going to have the boat yard inspect the chain plates. I'll do as much as I can on my own, but this is the first boat I'll have owned myself and not chartered.

Until then, I'll keep it motoring or in light wind.

We'll be moving it from Redondo Beach to Ventura at the end of the month.

[Dave22q]

What are you going to believe: your untrained eyes, some clown with an opinion and a computer, or a professional surveyor whose reputation you have checked out. For non experts buying professional help is generally cheaper in the long run than guessing. An old survey is a useful starting point and noting more but you might save some if your surveyor sees no need for a haul out. Also be aware that rigging and engine surveyors are separate specialties. A general survey can miss a lot of fine points.

[hamburking]

According to most manufacturers, rigging is good for 10 years.
IMHO, under normal use, its good for 20 years.

However, any boat over 30 years old had better have newer rigging...cause thats just pushing the envelope.

I live on Lake Ontario, with fresh water and short seasons. A friend with a mirage 27 lost his mast just a couple years ago. A swagged fitting rotted (rusted) from the inside out. Any visual inspection would have revealed NOTHING. But the fitting failed and the mast fell. Luckily, no one was injured, there was little damage to the boat, and he was able to secure everything and motor back to a dock.

Replacing everything (new mast, standing rigging, etc) cost more than the boat was worth.

So, if you are just day sailing in protected waters...go ahead and take the risk. But when the wind blows, you will be glad to have new standing rigging.

If you are going to buy a boat with original rigging (unknown age = original rigging) then the price of the boat should reflect that, and include the cost of all new standing rigging.

[hamburking]

Originally Posted by Zomgie

first project is going to be getting all the standing rigging replaced.

You sound like an intelligent and competent skipper. I'm sure you will have many happy adventures on your new (to you) boat! Congrats!

[1oldbuzzard]

greetings,

I have a 1979 islander32, tall rig. I bought it beat up as a project and had the same wood damage you mentioned. I have a mahogany interior. I found that on some chainplates they are attached to interior bulkheads. Plywood with thru bolts. The water had gotten into the plywood under the chainplate and rotted it totally. If I would have sailed it there would have been a disaster.

Check where your plates are attached inside to see if there is damage there. I sawzalled the old wood off, epoxied some wood in the place and had new chainplates made that were wider to straddle the replaced wood and then put smaller thrubolts around the edge into original good wood. Each plate cost me about $100.00 and well worth it.

over the last 4 years i have lived aboard and cruised and refit as I cruised. I have literally stripped it to bare class inside and out, insulated the heck out of it.

Should have seen me paint the mast in place with an extension ladder tied to it. And im 70. Arrrr. P.S. Im along the gulf coast Florida panhandle.

[Deltasailor]

Originally Posted by rosatte

we have a 1991 which is a freshwater boat standing rigging and all hardware replaced last yr..old rigging was inspected and woulda lasted another 10 yrs...so age has no relivance boat always had mast unstepped for winter ...so after 26 yrs it was all still good..

We replaced our standing rigging in 2015, the wire and swages did not show any broken strands or rust ( as sure sign of movement) but we did have big problems with the turnbuckles that needed heat to get them to turn! The boat was about 13 years old.

[Stu Jackson]

Unfortunately too many skippers do not seem to understand that chainplate BEDDING is part of routine regular maintenance. Sure, inspect the metal they are made of and where they attach, too. Learn how to bed them with butyl tape:

Chainplate Rebedding 101 - with Bed It with Butyl from Maine Sail

C34 mark 2 chain plates leaking - Chainplate flix

Each builder makes them differently, but the concepts are all the same.

[Cheechako]

OP: I think one thing to keep in mind is: Use the boat a bit before doing anything. Get to know it. You will then be more prepared to do the things it needs when you haul it out. For all you know it's got a bad shaft, bent prop, leaking seacocks or frozen, bad fuel tank etc.
Pace yourself, take some time.