shore cable sockets burned, what should I do?

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

................ -Also, the boat interior wiring is solid core copper not stranded like the shore power cord.

The wiring inside the boat should be stranded marine wire. If yours is not, it's a fire waiting to happen.

[Trekka]

Originally Posted by Cajunexpat

I used to own an rv park, so I’ve seen a lot of things like this. It could be from an overload, but not likely. It’s almost always from a loose connection or corrosion on or in the plugs that prevents a good contact in the plug.

EXACTLY

This is not an overcurrent problem. It is heat caused by resistance due to corrosion or intermittent connection causing arcing - sparks jumping across a gap.

Disassemble and look closely at the connection on your boat. It probably has problems, too.

This is the most common start of fires.

[captainwd40]

Always be sure the shore power circuit breaker is off prior to plugging in the cable to your boat. Arcing will occur on the neutral and/or ground pin.

If this continues even after following good standard practices (circuit breaker edicate, clean connections, etc) ...... you can upgrade your cable to 50 Amp cable. It will have heavier gauge wire that provides extra room for error and safety.

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

It is, but the plugs (if you buy proper ones) are more than a whole new cord!

It depends on where you buy the plugs and/or the cords, but for many folks, it's not worth the trouble to replace the plugs, especially if they don't know how.

I think if you are just replacing one end, it may be worth it to replace the plug. If you have to replace both ends, you are probably correct.

[Trekka]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

This happens regularly if you are running a small heater on the boat. When I lived aboard I just planned on replacing them every 1-2 years. The 30 amp cords are cheap fortunately.

My cords and sockets were new and it did it. Just too many amp draw, near continuous, even though it's well below the 30 amp rating. A 1000 watt heater only draws 8-9 amps, but still does that.

I have lived aboard many years and run 20-25 amps when it is cold. Have no problems. But I am very careful about having good, clean, tight connections.

It should NOT happen regularly, nor at all.

[rwidman]

Many folks are recommending converting to the "Smart Plug" system and in theory (and practice), this seems to be a better, more reliable system.

The downside here is, it's not "standard", meaning once you have changed your boat's inlet plug, it's unlikely that you can borrow a cord from a marina or another boater if you need to, you may not be able to find a replacement at a local store if you need one in an emergency, and you cannot string two cords end to end in case you need a longer cord someday.

One other thing: There is only one company making these cords and plugs. If something happens to them, you will have an "orphan" with no way to get replacement parts.

So in some ways it's better and in some ways it's not. And of course, this system doesn't make the dockside situation any better, just the boatside end.

[Trekka]

Originally Posted by Pacificsailor2

Rule of connecting power to your vessel. 1. Turn off your main AC onboard breakers. 2. hook your cable to shore power then to the boat securely. 3. with all large item ac onboard switches off. Turn on your main breaker. 4. click your component breakers back on 1 at a time.

To be clear:
Between 1 and 2 above:
Turn OFF the breakers on shore pedestal. Otherwise you are carrying a HOT cable when you board your boat.

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by reflectionsv37

No it is not a common problem with liveaboards. I've been living aboard since 1998. I have a 75 amp battery charger. I've run heaters, air conditioners, power tools and many other high amp draw devices. And yes, I've regularly run my heaters and air conditioners nonstop for weeks at a time. It doesn't matter whether you "think" the 30 amp plug is defective. You put all the blame on the heater and that is simply not true. A 30 amp circuit should be able to run 1000 watt heater non-stop for years without ever burning. A home clothes dryer runs on a 30 amp circuit and that draws way more power than a space heater. You simply have no idea what you're talking about.

Don't be surprised if your boat goes up in flames one of these days!

A 1000 watt heater is 9 amps at 110 volts. Most heaters are 1500 watts - 13.6 amps. Your 75 amp battery charger is only a 7.5 amp draw and only when it produces full output - a rare situation. Power tools are actually light loads and intermittent.

When you run two heaters and a water heater you are at the 30 amp limit. I have burned up a couple of 30 amp connectors this way. As was said earlier a connector is designed to only be run continuously at 80 percent of rated load. 100 percent continuous is two much power through these connectors. The circuit breaker is designed to carry the rated current, t has to be exceeded before it trips. A dirty or corroded connector is actually a resistance and draws power, just like a heater. Look at Ohms law.

[ValiantV]

Cut the burned end off and replace it with a Smart Plug. As others have said - 30A twist-lock plug/socket is marginal at best, and degrades with time and use. This creates high resistance, heat, burning, and CAN destroy your boat.

Replace your shore power inlet on the hull with a Smart Plug as well.

The weak point where your shore power cable connects to the marina pedestal is likely out of your control. Make sure the twist lock plug on YOUR cable is good (clean, straight, tight, not burned) and try to avoid using loose or burned-looking pedestal sockets. Lean on the marina management to replace the pedestal socket if it's at all damaged or loose.

Worst case scenario if you equip YOUR end of the cable and hull connector with the Smart Plug system is that the heat and possible fire isn't on your boat - it's at the pedestal.

[billcrowley]

…or, do what I did: added 180 watts of solar panels and an appropriate controller to my boat (1980 Newport 30) when I got it 6 years ago, and have never used the shore power cord - in fact, it is at home. This system has adequately operated my electrical needs flawlessly for all that time; storage is in two Group 24 deep cycle lead-acid batteries. I have a 1,000 watt inverter installed for my occasional 120 volt AC needs (mainly power tools and a small heater), and have never used the 40-year-old AC system on the boat.

[MVDarlin]

Common problem. Usually the ground wire. It may be caused by your dock connectiin. Get a new cable or replace the ends. Easy job. As noted above you need to replace boat receptacle as well. 30 amp rv plug $28 +/- on Amazon.

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by MVDarlin

Common problem. Usually the ground wire. It may be caused by your dock connectiin. Get a new cable or replace the ends. Easy job. As noted above you need to replace boat receptacle as well. 30 amp rv plug $28 +/- on Amazon.

The ground wire carries no current unless there is a fault so it is not usually the ground wire. It would be very rare for the ground connection to burn or arc.

The same amount of current flows through the hot and neutral wires, but the pins or sockets can wear or corrode unevenly so one ot the other can cause resistance or arc.

[Colonel Bob]

I can't say enough good things about the Smart Plug. I changed out the plug ends of all of my cables and the transom mounted sockets. Tremendous increase in electrical contact surface area and solid mechanical locking (no twist!). It takes a little muscle and patience to manhandle the cable through the boot (use Sylglide) and fit the heavy gauge wire into the plug ports but all doable.

[timb7734]

Worn plug and crappy connections, possibly from too much wiggling or downward pressure on the connection. Replace at least the connectors if not the whole cable, and use dielectric grease when attaching. Maybe also replace the boat receptacle. I had a similar problem that almost started a fire and was well into smoking rubber. I replaced the boat connector as well and noticed that the new one ($80.00 at West Marine) was totally redesigned to where the cross shorting situation could not occur. Original plug was 10 years old.

Good luck!

[ramitt0502]

I save wear and arcing on the cords by 1) shutting off the breakers on the boat, 2) shutting off the breakers on the pedestal, then, 3) disconnecting the shore cord. Has the additional advantage that I don't worry if my neighbor, or me, kicks my cords into the water. They are not live. Repeat the connect in reverse order.