Visit our Popular Forums

Dave22q · 09-07-2017, 14:23

I'm no expert but I think you can easily set it up to accept 30 amp OR 50 amp service but never both. Use 30 when 50 is not available and turn stuff off if you start tripping breakers e.g. microwave, coffee pot and AC. You can run a lot of stuff on 30 amps. Attempting to create 60 amp service by plugging two 30's sounds dangerous to me.

Mike Banks · 09-07-2017, 23:03

The only advice I would give is to run all of your wiring in ducts. I use the sort with the removable lid.

Oh--and I use copper conductor tinned. and any fuses are encapsulated and if heavy duty, gas proof.

For some circuits such as anchor windlass, I use welding cable and also augment it with a separate remote battery in parallel with the house batteries. This also serves to keep the volts up on the marine electric head.

I also find that the heavy cables stops the windlass draw damaging the conductors not only from the extra battery to the windlass, but also from the house bank. I tried using a blocking diode so that charging current only would reach the auxiliary windlass/ macerator head battery--but it took half a volt of charge voltage to switch it on--so I replaced all of the charging circuit with welding cable (will carry 200 amps) on all of the battery leads and connections.

When using the windlass I also run the diesel engine--which gives a bit of extra power. The heavy leads means this saves a bit of battery draw--the alternator supplies about sixty amps. The windlass draws about 120 on a heavy lift--and I use a sixty pounds anchor on ten millimetre short link chain and a 16 pounds weight kellet.

My next anchor windlass will be hydraulic. I will be able to save the weight of such a large battery, and have only the hydraulic lines to the hydraulic motors and the oil they contain as extra weight.
.

UNCIVILIZED · 10-07-2017, 06:23

It's worth studying enough on the topic so that you, yourself, can sketch out a proposed wiring diagram for your boat. Even if but a semi-abridged one. Then take it to a certified electrician, & have him go over it with you, & adjust things. Perhaps repeating this process a few times, until you get something that you're happy with, which is also safe, & makes sense from a power input & distribution standpoint.

From there you can either hire the job out, do it yourself, or possibly do some of both. And again, it'll have paid to have done a good bit of studying on the topic(s) prior to undertaking the work. Including reading up on ABYC cert's etc. Which are quite easy to find via Bing, or Google, etc.

Here are a few references to read, to get a start on your self-education. And also, prior to starting the job, as with anything else, it would be wise to practice your skills & techniques on something less important (& expensive). Possibly even not even on the boat, nor boat related. It'll save you both coin, & frustration in the long run. Ask me how I know

https://www.bluesea.com/resources/536
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...ds=boat+wiring

One other option, or "tool" to add to your toolbox, would be to take a class, or classes on the subject. Be it a 2-day weekend one, or something of length at a college, or vocational school. As such training is readily available, & again, it saves you time & coin, even when the cost of the schooling is included. Plus it'll educate you on a lot of things you never thought of, or considered that you might need to know. Along with boosting your confidence, & (hopefully) imbuing you with a technique based on good safety practices. Personal safety, & system(s) safety.

For example, even though I've known my way around cordage since puberty. Including being able to do a wire to rope splice in 15min at age 19. Taking Brion Toss's weekend splicing classes was one of the best (nautical) things I've ever done. I learned a LOT. Some of which I've forgotten, but which comes back quickly after I pull out the instructions on X, & practice it a few times on some scrap rope, prior to doing the "real job".

Adult Ed. classes on carpentry, & composites have been much the same. And even if the material isn't new to me, I always learn invaluable things. With the class(es) serving as a train up (for me). The same is true when I get asked to play "guest crew", & serve as the competition, for racing classes at J-world. It's fun, & adds to my quiver of skills & my resume.

BTW, it may be worth inquiring with any industrial type retailer, to ask them to order your wire & components. As odds are, the price that they'd sell it to you at will be less than the mark up associated with any "marine" store.
That, or see about adding your order onto one being placed by a boatbuilder, or RV maker, etc. So that again, you're not paying much above the commercial rate for it, vs. marine retail prices.

donradcliffe · 10-07-2017, 08:21

Its worth noting that 30 amp service is 110 volts, supporting 3 kilowatts of load, while the typical 50 amp services is 220 volts, supporting 11 kilowatts of load.

**skipmac** · 10-07-2017, 08:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by donradcliffe

Its worth noting that 30 amp service is 110 volts, supporting 3 kilowatts of load, while the typical 50 amp services is 220 volts, supporting 11 kilowatts of load.

Just to cover all the bases, absolutely correct that 50 amp service is typically (almost universally) 220V, split phase but there is or used to be a 50 amp 110V option, however haven't seen at a marina in years.

I do still have a 50 amp 110V shore power cord if anyone is interested. I'll make you a deal.

SecondBase · 10-07-2017, 10:08

Mads' project, refitting a Warrior 38 named Athena, is on his SailLife YouTube channel. This is an Outstanding companion to the books other forum members suggested.

Here is a link to one episode to get you started but the whole channel is worth it !!