Potting epoxy for bilge pump connections

[Cyrus Safdari]

Originally Posted by sailingharry

I *think* that most require you to double the length -- so a 3 foot pigtail is 6 feet of wire. The calculator I use (genuinedealz.com) has about double the drop you have.



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Yes the leads or taps on a bilge pump are part of its circuit so you have to double it along with the run of cable to-from the connector.
Barely acceptable shouldnt really be enough on bilge pumps, thats all Im saying. Previous posters have shown that you immediately lose significant voltage right off the bat withe these skinny wires, add to IRL draining batteries, uphill angle. and the challenges of pumping out a bilge add up at the worst time

[Cyrus Safdari]

Originally Posted by RaymondR

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We changed away from the rigid epoxy filled splicing kits to heat shrink and an elastomer type sealant which never set rigid and never had the problem again.

Thank you something to consider

[Bycrick]

You don’t have to "double" anything. You simply have to account for both wires in the circuit. Maybe they’re equal length, but maybe not. In my particular case, the bilge pump control panel is located some 5’ directly above the common 600a bus bar for the main power feeds. Hence the positive wires are some 10’ longer than the negative.

[Bycrick]

The above comment on "rigid epoxy" confirms my earlier post that just "pouring some epoxy" around the wires might not be a good solution.

Cutting the OEM wires shorter is, IMHO, an even worse solution. The shorter they are, the more likely they are to be submerged.