Jedi Basic 12/24V DC electrical system

[s/v Jedi]

I simplified our diagram to make it easier to see how one can switch from a 12V lead acid to a 24V lithium house battery.

It shows where alternators, solar controllers and inverter/chargers connect to, as well as how DC-DC converters are used for dealing with different voltages and for clean power for electronics.

Also the basics on how two starter batteries are connected, where bilge pumps go and how to secure electric winches and the windlass.

This diagram completely leaves out details like float switches etc. but also the DC negative. The one annoying thing is in the windlass circuit, where both a breaker and a remote battery switch are shown in series. In reality, the breaker is in the positive conductor and the switch in the negative conductor. This eliminates possible galvanic corrosion issues around the anchor and chain.

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

In reality, the breaker is in the positive conductor and the switch in the negative conductor. This eliminates possible galvanic corrosion issues around the anchor and chain.

I don't know why all boats do not wire their windlass in this way.

BTW, can you please confirm that the Blue Sea remote battery switch will work on the negative circuit.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

I don't know why all boats do not wire their windlass in this way.

BTW, can you please confirm that the Blue Sea remote battery switch will work on the negative circuit.

Yes, it does not care at all what you switch. There are separate versions for control logic though, like 12V or 24V and triggered by pulse or level.

[Bill O]

Nick,
Thanks for the better wiring diagram.

Guess my eyes are getting old, but I can't fully read all the identifiers above the parts. Is there anyway to make the font bigger to read them?

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Bill O

Nick,
Thanks for the better wiring diagram.

Guess my eyes are getting old, but I can't fully read all the identifiers above the parts. Is there anyway to make the font bigger to read them?

You can simply zoom in.

[Bill O]

Had to save it to a file, then I could zoom to enlarge the font and read it.


Thanks again.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

I don't know why all boats do not wire their windlass in this way.

BTW, can you please confirm that the Blue Sea remote battery switch will work on the negative circuit.

cause its dammed expensive thats why

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

cause its dammed expensive thats why

These Blue Sea Systems RBS switches can be found for $50 if you know where to look

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

These Blue Sea Systems RBS switches can be found for $50 if you know where to look

as a professional embedded systems electronics engineer, I avoid anything electrical with a "marine " tag that I can , especially bluesea

by the way the pic isn't saved at high enough resolution , even zoomed in

[sailingharry]

Jedi,

Awesome drawing, although I am not personally interested in this particular upgrade -- at least not yet (my windlass will hopefully not be replaced for a decade or two!).

But a quick question, if I may. I would like to make a similar drawing of my instrumentation networks. I have a hodgepodge of old ST, 0183, n2k, and Ethernet. With lots of translators involved as well!

Can I ask how you made this drawing? Vizio perhaps? And how did you acquire all those wonderful device images with no backgrounds or other polluting data?

Harry
Circe, '98 Saga 43
Mill Creek, Annapolis

[goboatingnow]

Can I ask how you made this drawing? Vizio perhaps? And how did you acquire all those wonderful device images with no backgrounds or other polluting data?

look closely they are just cut and pasted. some have original background, hes just careful and precise !!

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by sailingharry

Jedi,

Awesome drawing, although I am not personally interested in this particular upgrade -- at least not yet (my windlass will hopefully not be replaced for a decade or two!).

But a quick question, if I may. I would like to make a similar drawing of my instrumentation networks. I have a hodgepodge of old ST, 0183, n2k, and Ethernet. With lots of translators involved as well!

Can I ask how you made this drawing? Vizio perhaps? And how did you acquire all those wonderful device images with no backgrounds or other polluting data?

Harry
Circe, '98 Saga 43
Mill Creek, Annapolis

Hi Harry, I just replaced the motor of my windlass with a 24V version which I got at a Black Friday sale at Defender. Totally worth it

I draw my diagrams with LucidChart. You can do some basic stuff for free with it to try it out. The component images are just captured from the web

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

cause its dammed expensive thats why

It does not have to be a remote battery switch. A conventional battery switch to isolate the windlass is more commonly fitted.

On many boats both the battery switch for the windlass and the circuit breaker are both installed on the positive side. This removes the possibiliity of isolating the negative circuit. The way Jedi has installed these components is more sensible.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

It does not have to be a remote battery switch. A conventional battery switch to isolate the windlass is more commonly fitted.

On many boats both the battery switch for the windlass and the circuit breaker are both installed on the positive side. This removes the possibiliity of isolating the negative circuit. The way Jedi has installed these components is more sensible.

I'm using a Blue Seas dual circuit switch - both positive and negative are switched off with a single windlass switch.

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by mitiempo

I'm using a Blue Seas dual circuit switch - both positive and negative are switched off with a single windlass switch.

I do the same, and this has the advantage that turning one switch isolates both the positive and negative supply to the windlass and solenoid, but this is a little more complex.