Induction Hot Plate Startup Wattage?

[SKMT]

For those of you with induction hot plates, what wattage does it start up at? I did some brief reading and it appears they start at a set wattage even if you just want low heat (at least the model I looked at).

Reason I'm asking is I make alot of excess power from solar, but only have a 1000w inverter. I noticed those induction hot plates can be had for only $55. Unlike some solar maximalists, I'm not obsessive about trying to eliminate the $60-80 dollars per year I probably spend on propane. So i'm definitely not willing to spend $$$ for a bigger inverter just for that purpose. For one thing, i don't imagine it would be particularly good pulling 1800 watts (for high heat) out of my lead acid batteries. However, I do think the lil gadget would be useful to simmer some rice off to the side on the counter because my wok is too big to use the other burners at the same time. Also, i cook my eggs and bacon on low every morning, so it would be good for that. But I need to know the start up watts to determine if it's feasible for me.

[grantmc]

I've tested my Westinghouse WHIC01K single element induction stove top, with a cool little device just now. The cooktop cost here NZ$90 (approx. US$60). We have 240 volts here (my meter tells m 236v). The unit uses .3 amp in standby mode, which somewhat surprised me as really all that does is display 'OFF'.

But to answer your question. There are two buttons to press in sequence to actually get it going. And once done it has an automatic setting of 240°C (the maximum and way too hot for most things, but anyway). The draw jumps to 3.5 amps for half a second and then 8.5 amps where it remains until the temperature is reduced. After 20 seconds I dropped it to 160°C and the draw reduced to 5.5amps steady. 160°C is about what I cook most things.

I will say I am really impressed with the cooktop. I wanted to experiment with the cooktop before setting it up on the boat (I am currently living in my house). I first saw it being used on a video of Drakes Paragon episode below. I got in touch with Monique and found out from her a little about the unit and how they used it. As an aside so much safer than gas.

Since then I've been using it for most meal preparation and it's brilliant, but very easy to burn food.

The demo above:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K9htmUR_BfQ

[sailingunity]

We have an induction cooktop. I too can confirm that it uses a striking amount of power when off, in my case about 40 watts, so I have to make sure to unplug it when not used. As far as startup wattage, mine has two modes: power and temp. When turned on initially it is in power mode and set to 900 watts, switching to temp mode (which is better because it will turn the element on and off to preserve a set temp, thus saving power), it goes straight to the highest setting (460 degrees). We bought a cheap Empava brand 2 burner from Amazon.

[noelex 77]

Some induction hotplates pulse the power so while the average power draw is reduced on lower power settings the inverter still needs to supply the maximum power draw for a brief period.

Originally Posted by SKMT

Reason I'm asking is I make alot of excess power from solar, but only have a 1000w inverter. I noticed those induction hot plates can be had for only $55. Unlike some solar maximalists, I'm not obsessive about trying to eliminate the $60-80 dollars per year I probably spend on propane.

For many long distance cruising yachts it is not the cost of the propane, but rather the inconvenience. Bottle standards differ from country to country and even sometimes within one country. Transport and exchange of bottles can be a significant nuisance. These problems can be overcome, but with some hassle.

Once you factor in extra battery, solar, inverter and associated equipment costs then I am not sure induction cooking is necessarily cheaper, but is much easier if you are sailing over long distances.

If you are only cruising in narrow geographic range the problems associated with propane disappear, and this is likely to be the sensible choice.

[sailingunity]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

Some induction hotplates pulse the power so while the average power draw is reduced on lower power settings the inverter still needs to supply the maximum power draw for a brief period.



For many long distance cruising yachts it is not the cost of the propane, but rather the inconvenience. Bottle standards differ from country to country and even sometimes within one country. Transport and exchange of bottles can be a significant nuisance. These problems can be overcome, but with some hassle.

Once you factor in extra battery, solar, inverter and associated equipment costs then I am not sure induction cooking is necessarily cheaper, but is much easier if you are sailing over long distances.

If you are only cruising in narrow geographic range the problems associated with propane disappear, and this is likely to be the sensible choice.

Good point. Ours uses about 600-700 watts when "pulsing" as you mentioned.

The convenience is a big motivating factor for us, but we also freed up a bunch of space in the lazarette for other storage.

[swampbush]

Our induction plate defaults to 1200 watts on start up but there is a few seconds delay allowing you to reduce power before it turns on. Minimum power is 800 watts, below that it pulses on and off.
We don't use the temperature mode as even on the lowest temp setting it goes to full power until the temp is reached.
It is a cheap unit sold at kmart in Australia Anko brand.

[grantmc]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

----
If you are only cruising in narrow geographic range the problems associated with propane disappear, and this is likely to be the sensible choice.

The one problem that never disappears is that you're carrying around a potential bomb, and the gas is heavier than air.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5mat1-UsozQ

[PippaB]

Originally Posted by grantmc

The one problem that never disappears is that you're carrying around a potential bomb, and the gas is heavier than air.

I'm a proponent of induction cooking for some of the reasons mentioned in this thread, but then every time propane comes up we get this video or one like it. Propane explosions are pretty spectacular, but they are also pretty rare. Rare and spectacular makes them newsworthy.

Not counting propane grills and turkey fryers, about 1 in 6 people cooks and/or heats with propane/LPG in the US and propane explosions and fires lead to about 25 deaths annually (that figure covers home use, work use, and those grills and fryers that are the most problem prone).

Pretty much everyone in the US uses electricity, and 400 people die each year of electrocution. Factoring in propane use, ~67 propane users die each year of electrocution. If you count the grill/fryer/outdoor heater users that don't use propane inside the home that number climbs up to ~100-150 propane users who are electrocuted each year.

Since we consider our boats our homes, about 40% of those electrocution deaths occur at home, or ~26-60 propane users die of electrocution at home. That puts the odds nearly equal.

The statisticians will tell you that since you almost certainly use electricity anyway, the propane risk is an additional risk, and to some extent it it. But particularly aboard a boat the electrocution risk increases when you switch to induction because you now have higher voltage and current than you would with 12V systems, and that higher voltage is used on home-intended, portable, high power appliances. How much? The statistics are so small on both sides that getting a real risk analysis/evaluation is difficult.

Using propane, at absolute most you have doubled your risk of dying (the injury stats are also pretty similar) from your cooking gear and the odds are still pretty low. How low? About the same as dying in a lightning strike, and yet if you use propane for regular cooking you have a far higher exposure to the propane risk than to lightning.

Make a rational decision, not one informed by spectacular news videos. I, at least, think the odds my dying from my cooking gear are so low that I consider them negligible. The odds are far, far higher that I will die of a drug overdose (and I don't use drugs in general) or from cancer (and my cruising lifestyle with too much tropical sun exposure for a Nordic genotype has increased my risk in this category well above that from any cooking appliances).

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by grantmc

The one problem that never disappears is that you're carrying around a potential bomb, and the gas is heavier than air.

A completely uninformed piece of typical TV sensationalism. Not a hope in hell that express cruiser had a proper propane locker. The firefighter mentioned tank venting as a problem. That doesn't pose a problem with a proper propane locker.

There is no excuse for the stupidity of hauling a propane tank into the cockpit of a gasoline powered motor boat. Blame the idiot, not the propane.

PS. BoatUS claims data suggests electricity is more dangerous than propane.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

A completely uninformed piece of typical TV sensationalism. Not a hope in hell that express cruiser had a proper propane locker. The firefighter mentioned tank venting as a problem. That doesn't pose a problem with a proper propane locker.

There is no excuse for the stupidity of hauling a propane tank into the cockpit of a gasoline powered motor boat. Blame the idiot, not the propane.

PS. BoatUS claims data suggests electricity is more dangerous than propane.

Well…. now call up the diagram for the most probable cause for an explosion aboard. You do understand that when the propane in the bilge ignites, you get an explosion, and fire is all secondary to that.

Also, propane is heavier than air and will sink to the bilge. Keeping propane bottles in a propane locker with a drain in the bottom will only prevent disaster at that spot… as soon as the propane line exits the locker on it’s way to the cabin, the stove, oven etc. all that poses a high risk.

[bensolomon]

Originally Posted by PippaB

Not counting propane grills and turkey fryers, about 1 in 6 people cooks and/or heats with propane/LPG in the US and propane explosions and fires lead to about 25 deaths annually (that figure covers home use, work use, and those grills and fryers that are the most problem prone).



Pretty much everyone in the US uses electricity, and 400 people die each year of electrocution. Factoring in propane use, ~67 propane users die each year of electrocution. If you count the grill/fryer/outdoor heater users that don't use propane inside the home that number climbs up to ~100-150 propane users who are electrocuted each year.



Since we consider our boats our homes, about 40% of those electrocution deaths occur at home, or ~26-60 propane users die of electrocution at home. That puts the odds nearly equal.



The statisticians will tell you that since you almost certainly use electricity anyway, the propane risk is an additional risk, and to some extent it it. But particularly aboard a boat the electrocution risk increases when you switch to induction because you now have higher voltage and current than you would with 12V systems, and that higher voltage is used on home-intended, portable, high power appliances. How much? The statistics are so small on both sides that getting a real risk analysis/evaluation is difficult.



Using propane, at absolute most you have doubled your risk of dying (the injury stats are also pretty similar) from your cooking gear and the odds are still pretty low. How low? About the same as dying in a lightning strike, and yet if you use propane for regular cooking you have a far higher exposure to the propane risk than to lightning.



Make a rational decision, not one informed by spectacular news videos. I, at least, think the odds my dying from my cooking gear are so low that I consider them negligible. The odds are far, far higher that I will die of a drug overdose (and I don't use drugs in general) or from cancer (and my cruising lifestyle with too much tropical sun exposure for a Nordic genotype has increased my risk in this category well above that from any cooking appliances).

That was awesome!!!

[s/v Jedi]

When you want to switch to a single burner induction cooktop, you need to count on being able to supply 1,800W continuously. Speaking in Victron terms: you need a Multiplus 3000 at minimum.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Well…. now call up the diagram for the most probable cause for an explosion aboard. You do understand that when the propane in the bilge ignites, you get an explosion, and fire is all secondary to that.

Also, propane is heavier than air and will sink to the bilge. Keeping propane bottles in a propane locker with a drain in the bottom will only prevent disaster at that spot… as soon as the propane line exits the locker on it’s way to the cabin, the stove, oven etc. all that poses a high risk.

Here is the article that accomanied that pie chart. Note that BoatUS had only one propane fire claim that year and it was another idiot with a portable stove that bumped it onto the settee and set it on fire.



One problem with a fire aboard a boat is that unlike a house where running across the street to escape the flames is an option, on a boat there’s no place to go but overboard. Unfortunately, this violates the second rule of boating: Stay with the boat. Ironically, if enough of what the boat is floating on can be brought into the boat, the fire can usually be put out. This, however, violates the first law of boating: Keep the water outside the boat.
Obviously, stopping fires from getting started in the first place is the best defense. our Marine Insurance claim contain hundreds of fire-related claims which Seaworthy editors have spent many hours analyzing. Here’s a rundown:
1)AC and DC wiring/appliance 55%

DC shorts/wiring 30%
DC engine voltage regulator 12%
AC appliance/heater 4% shore power 4%
AC wiring/panel 2%
DC battery charger 2%
AC power surge 1%
If you’ve noticed a lot of wiring and electrical articles in Seaworthy over the years, now you know why; the number one cause of fires on boats are DC wiring faults. In the last issue of Seaworthy, we talked about your boat’s DC electrical system and the fact that the most common electrical problem was related to wires chafing. Many fires are started by battery cables, bilge pump wires, and even instrument wires chafing on hard objects like vibrating engines or sharp-edged bulkheads. Shore power can be a problem area as well; 11% of fires were started by the boat’s AC system, frequently at the shore power inlet. A few fires every year are caused by AC heaters and other household appliances that were brought on board. Electrical fires can be hard to put out because the source of the heat (a shorted wire) can reignite the fire even after a fire extinguisher has been used, which is why your boat must have a main battery switch and/or AC breaker to turn off the boat’s entire electrical system.

2) Engine/Transmission Overheat 24%
Engine overheat 19%
Turbocharger overheat 2%
Transmission overheat 2%
Backfire 1%
Nearly a quarter of boat fires (24%) were started by propulsion systems overheating. Most frequently, an intake or exhaust cooling water passage was obstructed causing the engine to overheat and begin to melt down hoses and impellers. These fires tended to be less serious, but because of the amount of smoke they made, they got undivided attention, especially since the smoke was coming from an area with flammable fuels. Often the fires were simply smoldering rubber until someone made the mistake of opening the engine compartment and allowing fresh air to enter. The best way to put out a fire that’s in the engine compartment is to have an automatic extinguisher system do it for you. If you don’t have an automatic system, the next best course of action is to shut down the engine and use an extinguisher in a fireport if your boat has one; if not, crack open the hatch and discharge the extinguisher. Keeping the water intake lines and especially the exhaust manifolds and risers free of obstructions (weeds in the intake, rust in the exhaust) and replacing worn pump impellers will prevent most overheating fires.

3) Fuel Leak 8%
This might be the worst kind of fire to have on a boat. Many boats carry over a hundred gallons of gasoline on board and burning fuel can be hard to extinguish (95% of fuel-related fires were caused by gasoline). Typical problem areas are fuel lines, connections on the engine itself, and leaking fuel tanks. Fortunately, the first warning sign is usually a gas smell that is easily detected by the average human nose—if you can smell raw gas, something’s wrong. Several fires were started by carelessness around gasoline; cleaning engine parts with gas, overfilling a fuel tank, and installing non-ignition-protected parts. One fire started when a member poured gas down a carburetor to start the engine. The engine backfired and caught the overhead on fire; the member jumped off the boat and ran to his house carrying the gas can, spilling gas along the way. The fire department report noted a zigzag burn pattern on the lawn up to the member’s front door. Fortunately, aside from some burned grass, there was no damage to the house (Claim #0009144). A gas leak has to be taken seriously since it has the potential to explode and destroy a boat – that’s why it’s critical to run the bilge blower for four or five minutes before starting the engine. Diesel is not immune from igniting either – one fire was started when a ruptured line sprayed fuel on a hot manifold.

4) Miscellaneous 7%
Some fires didn’t fit into any category—misdirected flares during a fishing tournament, anchoring in the wrong spot during a fireworks display, a child playing with matches, and even a case of spontaneous combustion from linseed-soaked rags. The only fire that couldn’t have been prevented by more care was one caused by lightning.

5) Unknown 5%
Occasionally, investigators can’t determine the cause of a fire. Sometimes, boats are completely destroyed and sometimes they sink, making finding the cause impossible.

6) Stove 1%
Stove fires appear to be less common (1%) than in the past, probably due to fewer alcohol stoves being installed on new boats. Still, alcohol can be a dangerous fuel; though it can’t explode, an alcohol flame is hard to see. One fire was started when a member tried to light the stove and gave up because he couldn’t see the flame. Unfortunately, he had succeeded, but didn’t realize it until he got a call from the fire department. Only one fire was started by propane; a portable stove fell off a counter and ignited a cushion.

[Gtstricky]

What was the question?

[noelex 77]

Originally Posted by grantmc

The one problem that never disappears is that you're carrying around a potential bomb, and the gas is heavier than air.

Induction cooking is probably slightly safer, although you need to factor in the extra risk of a complex electrical system with a large battery bank (possibly lithium) and inverter etc. The high currents drawn by induction (especially for 12v boats) demand well installed and maintained wiring. Boat fires (most of which are electrical) are far more common than propane explosions/fires.

In practice both systems are very safe. The advantages of using induction is in reducing/eliminating the hassle of gas bottle replacement and reduced heat/condensation rather than any possible slight safety gain. The drawback of induction is that it limits your crusing zone to areas of reasonable insolation, or you need to frequently plug into shore power, or install a generator (with the associated repair/maintenance problems).

Personally, we have found a combination of propane, induction and diesel cooking is ideal. We can use the best method depending on the circumstances and eliminate most of the drawbacks with each system.