Visit our Popular Forums

mitiempo · 06-04-2021, 16:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by coopec43

How should I connect the positive cable from the solar system?

In any system I wire I connect it to the positive charge bus with all other charge sources. I always use an ACR (VSR) to charge the start battery.

If you are not using a VSR you could wire the positive to the start battery direct - I just wouldn't do it that way.

**Wotname** · 06-04-2021, 16:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by coopec43

Wiring up solar panels is "off topic" and as far as I am concerned it is "problem solved". Over a month ago I did start a thread on wiring up the panels and a very knowledgeable forumite did examine the circuit diagrams and he gave the thumbs up. (The circuit diagram showed the solar panel wiring to charge the battery as well as an outboard motor wired up to the same battery for starting purposes)

All the DC loads on my yacht come from the House Bank.

You've got me worried now!

Fair enough, probably got lost in translation

.

All DC loads from the House Bank is good!
Don't worry, be happy!

coopec43 · 06-04-2021, 16:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitiempo

In any system I wire I connect it to the positive charge bus with all other charge sources. I always use an ACR (VSR) to charge the start battery.

I probably will use an ACR to charge the starter battery. (I have all but finished the carpentry so that's the sort of problem I'll look at next: one job at a time)

Cost wise I prefer the 3 Stud battery terminal. You still haven't convinced me it is the wrong way to go.

When I wanted to wire up the 240V system I went and bought 3 extension cables and wired them up. When an electrical trades guy saw what I'd done his jaw dropped: he said it would have been much cheaper to use this as he pointed to a reel of cable. I didn't have any of that cable so it wasn't a proposition.

Some people would take a negative cable to a bolt somewhere on the engine (as the engine is part of the negative system) I find that very untidy (I am a retired accountant)

mitiempo · 06-04-2021, 17:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by coopec43

I probably will use an ACR to charge the starter battery. (I have all but finished the carpentry so that's the sort of problem I'll look at next: one job at a time)

Cost wise I prefer the 3 Stud battery terminal. You still haven't convinced me it is the wrong way to go.

When I wanted to wire up the 240V system I went and bought 3 extension cables and wired them up. When an electrical trades guy saw what I'd done his jaw dropped: he said it would have been much cheaper to use this as he pointed to a reel of cable. I didn't have any of that cable so it wasn't a proposition.

Some people would take a negative cable to a bolt somewhere on the engine (as the engine is part of the negative system) I find that very untidy (I am a retired accountant)

I wouldn't use them but as long as they are either plated copper or brass I guess they will do. If they are steel or stainless steel I wouldn't touch them.

Earlier I posted of a stern thruster - fairly small as on a 26' boat - that had issues because of a stainless washer under the fuse thereby restricting the current that could pass.

One cable will have to pass through these to your starter - correct?

coopec43 · 06-04-2021, 17:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitiempo

I wouldn't use them but as long as they are either plated copper or brass I guess they will do. If they are steel or stainless steel I wouldn't touch them.

Earlier I posted of a stern thruster - fairly small as on a 26' boat - that had issues because of a stainless washer under the fuse thereby restricting the current that could pass.

One cable will have to pass through these to your starter - correct?

I agree 100% that I'll have to watch what material they are made of. My intuition tells me that as the motor is a diesel the load on the terminals will require robust terminals. Just looking at the photo they look like a bit of pressed stainless steel.

I saw your comment about the SS washer.

Yes one cable will have to go to the starter. Would you be happier with these?

Product: Unilug Two Up Positive & Negative Terminals
Listed here are the premium Heavy Duty Forged Battery Terminals from Unilugs, you will receive Positive and Negative with covers
Features:

Heavy Duty Forged Brass Battery Lugs
Anit-Rotating Terminal Clamp
Moulded Nylon Battery Lug Cover
Internally Threaded Adaptor Post
Universal Flanged Hexagonal Bolts
1 x Positive & 1 x Negative

coopec43 · 06-04-2021, 17:49

These look impressive and only $11 each.

PROJECTA Satin Forged Brass Battery Terminal Positive BT820-P1

stormalong · 06-04-2021, 18:42

I make my own buss bars. You can buy 1/4 inch by 1 inch bar for 16.48 a foot from onlinemetals.com. They used to have silver flashed copper for a good price but I just looked and didn't see it.

1/4 X 1 should handle any current that you need. I like to make my own because off the shelf buss bars don't meet my needs.

Below are pictures of some buss bars that I have made. Picture one has a negative buss bar made of silver flashed copper to which all of my individual grounds are connected. Picture two, on the bottom are two buss bars, one positive and one negative that are the main power distribution from the house bank. At the top of picture two is a heat shrink covered buss bar that distributes power to the circuit breakers below it.

The copper flashed buss bar is drilled and tapped for #8 screws. Tapping soft copper is very difficult and takes a lot of care to avoid snapping off a tap. The other bars are just drilled and bolts are used to hold the terminals. The bolts can be stainless as long as the terminals are in direct contact with the copper.

mitiempo · 06-04-2021, 18:45

The ones in post 65 look ok.

The ones in post 66 I would stay away from - they are for bare wire connections as far as I can tell.

stormalong · 06-04-2021, 18:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by coopec43

I agree 100% that I'll have to watch what material they are made of. My intuition tells me that as the motor is a diesel the load on the terminals will require robust terminals. Just looking at the photo they look like a bit of pressed stainless steel.

I saw your comment about the SS washer.

Yes one cable will have to go to the starter. Would you be happier with these?

Product: Unilug Two Up Positive & Negative Terminals
Listed here are the premium Heavy Duty Forged Battery Terminals from Unilugs, you will receive Positive and Negative with covers
Features:

Heavy Duty Forged Brass Battery Lugs
Anit-Rotating Terminal Clamp
Moulded Nylon Battery Lug Cover
Internally Threaded Adaptor Post
Universal Flanged Hexagonal Bolts
1 x Positive & 1 x Negative

Quote:

Originally Posted by coopec43

These look impressive and only $11 each.

PROJECTA Satin Forged Brass Battery Terminal Positive BT820-P1

I wouldn't use these unless a fuse or circuit breaker is immediately adjacent to the lug. ABYC says within 8 inches of the battery. I think that is overkill but your insurance company may disagree.

coopec43 · 06-04-2021, 19:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitiempo

The ones in post 65 look ok.

The ones in post 66 I would stay away from - they are for bare wire connections as far as I can tell.

OK! Decision made.

Now you point out that the ones in #66 are for bare wires I'll give them a miss. Not sure of the technical reasons (I believe you) but I am happy with the #65 ones anyway.

Thanks for your help.

coopec43 · 06-04-2021, 19:14

[QUOTE=stormalong;3382364]I make my own buss bars. You can buy 1/4 inch by 1 inch bar for 16.48 a foot from onlinemetals.com. They used to have silver flashed copper for a good price but I just looked and didn't see it.

1/4 X 1 should handle any current that you need. I like to make my own because off the shelf buss bars don't meet my needs.

Below are pictures of some bus.......QUOTE]

I do have very high amperage fuses everywhere as recommended. The winch has a circuit breaker located quite close to the battery (as recommended by Wotname)

WOW! What a work of art! I bet you saved a mint making those up yourself. Any bus bar for high amperage strains the budget so I was looking to make some up myself

Thanks for your help

Spot · 06-04-2021, 19:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by stormalong

The copper flashed buss bar is drilled and tapped for #8 screws. Tapping soft copper is very difficult and takes a lot of care to avoid snapping off a tap. The other bars are just drilled and bolts are used to hold the terminals. The bolts can be stainless as long as the terminals are in direct contact with the copper.

Nice looking wiring.

For the copper, are you using a handheld drill and tap or using a drill press or mill and a tapping head? The guys at work machine copper but I am not sure what alloy.

stormalong · 06-04-2021, 20:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spot

Nice looking wiring.

For the copper, are you using a handheld drill and tap or using a drill press or mill and a tapping head? The guys at work machine copper but I am not sure what alloy.

I made a jig to drill all the holes on a drill press equally spaced.

The problem tapping copper is that it is so soft that it is easy to seize the tap in the hole. Care must be taken to back out the tap frequently and clear the chips. Small taps are brittle. I made two of those buss bars because I broke two taps off in the first one. I was much more careful on the second one. I saved the ruined one so if someday I need a shorter one I could use it.

PS. Hand tapping.