Mahe 36: Hatches, Windows and Ventilation

[vayacondios]

The pins in our forward port keep working up and down. They can be tapped down into place but does anyone have a suggestion for fixing this permenately?

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by vayacondios

The pins in our forward port keep working up and down. They can be tapped down into place but does anyone have a suggestion for fixing this permenately?

Yes, tighten the 4 flat head allen screws on the hinges

[Cotemar]

One of my four Goiot round deck hatches has started to leak after five years.
I wiped the seal to make sure it was not just salt, but it still leaked.

Goiot 27C Integration hatches
Seal replacement - After many years sailing, the gasket definitely needs to be replaced.

You can purchase 5/16 inch (.312”) diameter x 32.5 inch long, Black, rubber O-Ring Cord Stock, solid center, online.

Rig-Rite, Inc
63 Centerville Rd, Warwick, RI 02886
(401) 739-1140
www.RigRite.com
Goiot hatch parts, handles and gaskets

http://www.rigrite.com/Hardware/Hatch_&_Port/Goiot%20Port%20Parts.html#Replacement_Gasket
http://www.rigrite.com/Hardware/Hatch_&_Port/Goiot%20Hatch%20Parts.html

Small (stateroom?) hatch: GOI HI-GS X (where X is the qty in feet you wish to buy)
Large (bow?) hatch: GOI HI-G X (where X is the qty in feet you wish to buy)

Metric size is 7.9248mm diameter x 825.5 mm long

1) Remove old round black rubber seal with rounded end popsicle stick
2) Clean aluminum seal groove with acetone
3) Cut new .312 inch diameter seal to 32.5 inch long
4) Brush contact cement ¼ inch wide for the whole seal length
5) Brush contact cement on both ends
6) Brush contact cement in aluminum seal groove with a small Q-tip
7) Wait 15 minutes
8) Attach both ends of the seal to form a circle
9) Push round seal into aluminum seal groove on hatch all the way around the groove
10) Close hatch and lock
11) Let contact cement dry for 4 hours

You should be all set for another 5 years.

[Cotemar]

I had three hatches that did not have bug screens, so I made some.

Here is how I made them.
1) Make a cardboard template using your boat hatch
2) Make a 1/4 inch smaller template to allow for rubber D seal all away around.
3) Trace template onto a sheet of 1/2 thick Azek
4) Cut 1/2 thick Azek sheet with a jig saw
5) Slice the 1/2 Azek hoop into 2 half’s using a saw or sheet rock knife
6) Cut a piece of screen to size
7) Contact cement both half’s of now 1/4 thick Azek
8) Apply the screen to one side and then put the other side on and clamp to dry
9) Cut any excess screen sticking out
10) Contact cement on the D rubber seal
11) Screw on a strap handle

They look better than the factory screens

[tpkas]

Added a ventilation hatch into each salon side window recently (Vetus Planus PLA23 ... about 230mm square hatches with tinted acrylic)

After a fair bit of research I decided to be brave and fit them myself. I was mostly concerned about cutting the windows and cracking them. A lot of folk use a jigsaw with an acrylic cutting blade but I was concerned that with the acrylic being so thick that the hot blade would melt the acrylic as it was cutting and then, as it solidified, it would grip the blade turning the jigsaw into a virtual impact hammer possibly cracking the window. Others use a circular saw with a very fine tooth blade but I decided on something a little different...a metal cutting blade in my angle grinder. The blade is only about 1.5mm thick and dissipates the heat extremely well. I mounted the hatches on 6mm EVA double sided foam tape and used Sikaflex 255 Extra (a'la the windows on the hull sides). The photos will show the installation process. Before cutting all of the way through I scored the surface all of the way around with the cutting disc first. To cut the corners you first cut out an octagonal piece and then do lots of vertical and then horizontal cuts up to the window radius. I then used an abrasive flapper wheel in an electric drill to smooth off the cut out.

I mounted the windows opening forward to "scoop" any breeze into the cabin. They're also under the "eyebrow" so I hope that if it's raining they'll be somewhat protected and when sailing the lee side can be opened and we shouldn't get any spray coming in ... well, that's the theory anyway.

[Cotemar]

tpkas,

Nice hatch upgrade. Thanks for sharing.

I have had great success cutting these windows with a Dremel tool and a Dremel 561 bit.

[Seastream]

Cotemar, where online did you get the gasketing for the Goiot Integration 27C hatch?

[Cotemar]

Had a hard time finding the black foam so I used this last year and it worked fine. Frost King 3/8 in. x 20 ft. Caulk Saver. I used contact cement to glue it in.

Frost King E/O 3/8 in. x 20 ft. Caulk Saver-C21H at The Home Depot

[Cotemar]

Here is the info you may need for the Mahe 36 bow hatches

Goiot Cristal Round Deck Hatch

The model 44C is Size 19 Product # 101845 which has a 474mm (18.66 inch) opening

With a medium profile construction, the Cristal hatches combine stylish design and shapes with a sturdy one-piece lid, engineered from aluminum casting. We offer a wide range of sizes. larger hatch models are designed to be used as fore deck hatches.

www.goiot.fr/pdf/p18-19-20.pdf

[Dod42]

Originally Posted by Cotemar

Mahe's,

Installed one of these PortVisors over the Stb. master berth hatch.
Have another one I may install on the Goiot hatch over the port stateroom under the cockpit table.

Always seam to get rain on my head overnight when we leave the hatch open.
Also seem to wet the bed if I forget to close the hatch when washing the boat down

Our hatch is a Goïot Cristal 33.13P
Bumps out just 3 inches.
Takes about 10 minutes to clean and install.
Cost $27.95 order #17-RE
http://www.seaworthygoods.com/store.html

Thanks to Jef&Marin, Netherlands for doing all the research and finding these.

I bought 3 of these for our Lipari but then found out that we got the Evolution model that has different hatches so I no longer need them. I have them in Brisbane Australia if anyone wants to buy a set. Great for being able to leave the hatch open for ventilation even when raining.

[want2cruise]

has anyone removed the side windows from their Mahe? we cracked one of our small ones on the dock and while it is still rainproof we do not want to take the chance of keeping it that way. Are they just glued or screwed as well? I am planning to use UV resistant sikaflex to fix a new one. also I am starting to get water leakage from the larger salon windows and it is apparent that the sun has taken its toll on the (non UV resistant) silicone that was originally used. so rather than just following Cotemars previous suggestion of sealing it (I am afraid it may be too late for that) I am considering if it may be better to remove and reset the entire windows...

[Cotemar]

want2cruise,

If you’re not going to use the adhesive that FP used from the factory, then I would recommend using Dow Corning 795 adhesive that most cruisers use to attach their windows.

It is UV resistant and waterproof and has been proven to work very well over a long time.

Your Mahe 36 windows are just glued on without screws

[Seastream]

Cotemar, is the three eights inch diameter frost king foam gasketing for the bow or stateroom hatches? I bought some and it seems too large for the stateroom hatches. BTW folks, Rigrite in RI does carry the OEM foam...at six dollars a foot.

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by Seastream

Cotemar, is the three eights inch diameter frost king foam gasketing for the bow or stateroom hatches? I bought some and it seems too large for the stateroom hatches. BTW folks, Rigrite in RI does carry the OEM foam...at six dollars a foot.

I just used it on the round hatch above the head to fix a leak last season and it worked. The bow hatches use a different seal.

Do you have the item number for the Rigrite OEM foam?

[RKsailsolo]

This post and all related to it are a fantastic reference for Mahe owners past, present and future.