Posted this on the temporary Google forum so thought I would post again here.
I am considering replacing the small round hatches over both rear cabins. By my measurements, the side deck area where the hatches are could take an 18" hatch. Can anyone see any reason why I wouldn't want to do this? Aside from cost! Also I am considering adding a hatch over port front cabin as ventilation is really poor in that cabin in particular. I could also take one of the old round hatches and put it over head area too.
Are these stupid ideas?
Cutting in new Cabin hatches and Sliding door screen
Great idea to install new square Cabin hatches and is not a problem to do so. The deck is closed cell foam core which is extremely strong and will note get permeated by water. Just cut the opening with a little clearance and seal the exposed foam with silicon then silicon the deck to window joint and any screw holes. If you have a 2009 Mahe and have round hatches over the both the toilets you will see that is how FP cut and installed those. Its not a hard job. Just put down painters tape as an outline for the new hatch and just use a jig saw with a sharp blade. Keep the cut out core to show your friends how strong it is J
Lori this is from your other quote,
I am very interested in what you guys come up with for screens etc. I am going to tackle this soon. I wasn't aware you could buy the screenparts at the hardware store so that is good news. Has anyone thought about a screen door for the cockpit door. That would enable you keeping door open and getting good cross ventilation. Any thoughts? Love to see some pictures of what you guys have done. Thanks Lori
We use one of these to cover the sliding doors Bugbusters Hatch & Companionway Screens
48" x 68" Companionway Screen $92.99 USD purchased from WestMarine
It has a weighted edge and just ties to the top rail and is made of some durable screen material. We have had it for years and started using it on our Mono hull and it works just as good on the Mahe.
Yes, you could make one fairly easy to custom fit the sliding door. The only problem I can see is the special screen mesh they use. It has been really strong, durable and plyable. We just roll it up in a ball when finished and it always opens up flat without rinkles.
The windows in the outside hull has some kind of black gasket or sealant. Everytime it rains, or even with sea spray, we are getting black running down the hull. Kinda looks like mascara running from crying eyes. Yuk! It wipes off but if left on, can leave a shadow in the hull that needs to be polished out. Has anyone had this? I was thinking maybe there is some way to prevent that by painting a clear sealant around that black gasket under the windows. Ive noticed it also happens around the big windows on the outside of the saloon.
Any recommended solutions??
Vaya con Dios (Hull 111)
All I've done is wax around the windows (work for a while). I've thought about Caulking, but I'm not sure what the black sealant is, if it is Oil based a latex Caulk won't work and could make for a big mess.
Has anyone else tried Caulking over the Black Sealant?
The adhesive FP uses is standard automotive window glass adhesive with one difference.
The windows are not glass, so a primer has to be used on just the window so the adhesive will bond.
Note:the outside of the plastic sheets are painted black for 2” around the periphery of the window so the UV light from the sun will not break down the adhesive.
On a car the adhesive is covered by metal or plastic trim, so the adhesive will not break down, but on our boat the edges are exposed to the suns UV light which is not good.
Solution:That has worked for me.
1) Must be done when at the dock or on the hard. Doing this from your dingy would be too hard.
2) Install painters tape around the window to make cleanup easier. This stuff can be messy.
3) Coat the exposed black window adhesive edges with marine silicon. I used Black “LifeSeal Sealant” made by Boatlife over a year ago and all is well with no problems.
4) Remove the painters tape while the sealant is still wet. Pull off at an angle away from window.
Here is the FP window info. for your future use.
1) ACRYLITE GP acrylic sheet is a cell-cast acrylic sheet 3/8 thickness
2) Dow Automotive BETAMATE7120 Single-component, high-viscosity, atmospheric humidity-curing polyurethane bonding/sealing compound for high-strength, permanently elastic adhesive joints. Apply ˝ thick and squeezed out to 3/8 when window is installed
3) Dow Automotive Betaprime 5404 Pinchweld and encapsulation Primer. Used only on the plastic window sheet. Lightly scotbright 2” around bounding edge and apply this primer onto the sanded 2” area around the outer edge
Just added these Guest 12 volt oscillating model 900 fans to each state room.
They were $68 us each from Jamestown Distributors.
Used these before and really liked how they would blow air back and forth over the bed when they oscillate.
Just reading some of the old post in this section. I installed 2 hatches in the main cabin area because of the poor vetilation. They are 30 seriers and measure 15 5/8 by 20 3/4 and these lay flat on the coach roof. I got them from defender and they keep them in stock so I had them in one day. I used this size because they were the largest that would still lay flat on the coach roof. Installation take me about 3 hours each. To cut the fiberglass you must use a fiberglass blade which I picked up at Home Depot. They work great no leaks. I faced them foward to get as much air as I could while at anchor. Here is a pic of them installed, sorry I did not take any of the installation.