Teak Leaking

[Safari38LH]

I have a Little Harbor that needs to have its decks replaced because of leaks. My balsa core is mostly rotted and I will have to replace the whole deck. It looks like it will be cheaper to pull the old teak off quickly and throw it away then taking the time to unscrew it piece by piece etc. Most are replacing their teak deals with teak from Teak Systems. They are templated and made off of the boat and then glued down instead of screwed down. No holes no leaks. We are talking around $40,000. Not cheap.

[scoobert]

Right now what i am thinking is a partial teak removal. Finding a happy spot, cutting a line, and remove the bad portion. If that does not solve it i can remove more. I dont want to go crazy and rip it all off if it is good.

[Cheechako]

"I have a Little Harbor that needs to have its decks replaced because of leaks. My balsa core is mostly rotted..."
Although not as easy as it sounds, removing old teak and repainting the deck is likely the better idea.... if you are going to worry about the core. Not sure how to replace a core without removing the teak deck... and as mentioned a new teak deck is just too expensive on an old boat.... additionally I'm not sure the teak being sold to day is as good as the teak years ago, I guess it depends where it comes from. You could try removing some and see. On my Hans Christian it came off in pieces.... the caulking bond was too tight.. they had caulking under the teak as well as between... but if your boat doesnt... maybe you could salvage the teak... but then you'd have to put hundreds of screw holes back in your new deck!

[scoobert]

I have to say, i just had an idea. While i rip up the deck i could put in a relaxation pool.
Big enough for two people, maybe 3, 4. Just 2 foot deep. Would be a nice place to relax at the end of a day on the hudson. (You do not swim in the hudson)

[Kenomac]

If you have not yet purchased the boat, forget about it and keep looking... leave this to be someone else's problem to fix.

There are plenty of boats out there without the headaches. Old leaky teakys can be a real expensive migraine.

[scoobert]

Thanks ken, but a boat in need of repair is what i seek.
Other then the deck, the sails being old, and the rigging being old, its in awesome shape.
Besides, leaky teaky is fun to say!

[scoobert]

What stops me from skinning over the entire teak after i sand it?
If i seal the teak in, it should not leak anymore.
The last coat i could add sand to give traction.

[Cheechako]

More than likely some of the leakage is coming under the teak from around the teak as sell as through the caulking etc. Skimming over you are just sealing in a bunch of moisture.... and the seal wont last long. What's you plan for this boat? If you are just coastal sailing you might just use it a while and figure out as much as you can. How old is this boat? do you even know if it has cored decks? some old boats dont.

[jgbrown]

Originally Posted by scoobert

What stops me from skinning over the entire teak after i sand it?
If i seal the teak in, it should not leak anymore.
The last coat i could add sand to give traction.

Movement later. A pretty skilled lady here did just that, but fortunately stuck to a test area. She'll be peeling it off this year

[scoobert]

so, i have the yacht now.
i was thinking about just re-bedding the screws.
remove the screw, insert epoxy from a syringe, put a screw back in.
so my question is, how?

do i remove the screw, fill the hole, then wait for it to completely cure?
or do i remove the screw, fill with epoxy, and replace the screw while still wet?
or do i do the first one then predrill the hole?

if i run the screw in while wet, then there is nothing to draw the board down,
if i run it in dry, will it just crack the epoxy?
a bit lost on this one, and if i can go without ripping the teak up, i would prefer it.

[Mimsy]

You are trying to combine separate tasks. Filling the holes with epoxy is a job by itself. I can only tell you how we would do it on our boat. This is your boat and you are free to do whatever you please.
Make sure that there is no wet deck spreading from the deck holes. ( Not sure if your deck is cored). If there is wet or rotted deck, repair that first. If you are good, then you fill with epoxy and let it cure. After its cured, drill your pilot holes and use butyl tape on the screws. Sounds easy, will take for ever or at least what seems like forever.

[scoobert]

Originally Posted by Mimsy

You are trying to combine separate tasks. Filling the holes with epoxy is a job by itself. I can only tell you how we would do it on our boat. This is your boat and you are free to do whatever you please.
Make sure that there is no wet deck spreading from the deck holes. ( Not sure if your deck is cored). If there is wet or rotted deck, repair that first. If you are good, then you fill with epoxy and let it cure. After its cured, drill your pilot holes and use butyl tape on the screws. Sounds easy, will take for ever or at least what seems like forever.

thank you.
i have given myself a full 20 working days to stop the deck leaks.
the core is foam, and i will check it for dampness, thou i walked over the entire deck, and didnt find a single soft spot, and i am 310#

[Mimsy]

There can still be wet core without soft spots. Supporting structures can hide wet areas. If its foam you should be good. If its balsa, don't trust just checking for soft spots, use a moisture meter on the underside of the deck and get under the head liner.

20 days is a good start.

[scoobert]

Originally Posted by Mimsy

There can still be wet core without soft spots. Supporting structures can hide wet areas. If its foam you should be good. If its balsa, don't trust just checking for soft spots, use a moisture meter on the underside of the deck and get under the head liner.

20 days is a good start.

it is a foam core, and thou in negotiations i said it would need replaced, i doubt it actually will.
i dont think i will even take the teak up, but maybe in a few areas.
seriously, at this point i think i stole this boat.

[Mimsy]

You certainly don't need to take the teak up and in theory, foam shouldn't rot. Just take your time, don't mix the epoxy in big batches, get the good butyl tape and learn to become one with the Zen of Boat Refurbishing.