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Training Wheels · 30-12-2015, 20:05

+1 I have found I much prefer using the heat shrink connectors. I just ordered a single crimper. It's much easier buying the heat shrink connectors, rather than adding the heat shrink tubing.

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Badsanta · 31-12-2015, 04:01

What brand is that yellow 3 part terminal? Thanks

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Badsanta · 31-12-2015, 04:18

But I don't like the way the single crimper does the heat shrink. At least it doesn't cut through the heat shrink but it just flattens the fitting. Doesn't seem as well crimped as the double crimper but cant use that on hs. I would rather put in a good solid double crimp without a plastic cover and add hs. But I cant find that yet.

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Canibul · 31-12-2015, 05:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maine Sail

The Ancor tool for heat shrink terminals is the Single Crimp 703010 (Link)

Thanks. Looking at the photo of that tool it now all makes perfect sense. Explains my issues with these crimps, and why my other little fishing leader crimper does a better job than a $ 75 tool.

I will be buying another crimper, as this one is pretty much useless to me. I still have hundreds of heat shrink butt connectors and have very little use for the ring connectors. My collection of useless-tools-too-good-to-throw-away will grow by one, I guess. I seem to be hitting around seventy dollar ones for some reason. The hammer impact driver is another one....

Question: Why do you recommend the 703010 instead of their "Marine Grade" crimper?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have to wonder why two model crimpers that do the same thing?

Maine Sail · 31-12-2015, 06:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canibul

Thanks. Looking at the photo of that tool it now all makes perfect sense. Explains my issues with these crimps, and why my other little fishing leader crimper does a better job than a $ 75 tool.

I will be buying another crimper, as this one is pretty much useless to me. I still have hundreds of heat shrink butt connectors and have very little use for the ring connectors. My collection of useless-tools-too-good-to-throw-away will grow by one, I guess. I seem to be hitting around seventy dollar ones for some reason. The hammer impact driver is another one....

Question: Why do you recommend the 703010 instead of their "Marine Grade" crimper?
Amazon.com: Ancor 702010 Marine Grade Electrical Single Crimp Ratchet Tool: Sports & Outdoors

I have to wonder why two model crimpers that do the same thing?

From what I was told that model was discontinued and that image really does it no justice as the one that used to ship under that model# was not made in the USA. While there may be some left out there for sale, $80.00 is a lot of money for that tool. The FTZ heat shrink tool can be had for about $45.00 - $80.00...

For more info on crimping this may be helpful - Marine Wire Termination

Canibul · 31-12-2015, 07:59

I just ordered the Ancor version, plus an Ancor wire stripper/crimper tool. In the meantime, I'll continue to work using my old fishing plier crimper.

A very small set of Vise Grips works pretty well, too, I've found.

Thanks again for the help with the other crimper. I bought it last year, and it was a big deal to me to be able to replace all these cheapazz Harbour Fright connectors that some nameless PO put on this boat. I'd love to rewire the whole thing, but that would basically mean I give up on the idea of sailing and just spend the rest of my life working on boat wiring. I've got orange extension cord for the ac circuits and I still find wire nuts holding some of it together.

alctel · 31-12-2015, 08:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maine Sail

The FTZ 94130 single crimp controlled cycle crimper is a decent DIY/mid grade tool for crimping heat shrink terminals.

+1 on this, I use this and have done almost 200 connections on my boat with it.

Seadog have the same one under their brand as well

Maine Sail · 31-12-2015, 08:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by alctel

+1 on this, I use this and have done almost 200 connections on my boat with it.

Seadog have the same one under their brand as well

The SeaDog tool is a cheap knock off of the FTZ..

Canibul · 31-12-2015, 10:24

I really wish that Amazon and other online sellers would be required to list the country of origin/manufacture on their goods. Sure would save me a lot of time and aggravation. And money. Cheap is EXPENSIVE!!

pcmm · 31-12-2015, 10:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

If you need hundreds of butt splice connectors, you're going about this all wrong. Especially if you're cutting the wires off 2" from a bulkhead before extending them. These connectors are extremely rarely used on a yacht. You should reexamine your approach.

Actually most of your crimping on a boat will typically be either a butt crimp (to connect the pigtails from the fixture to your wire) and ring terminals to connect your wire to the busbar and breaker. but there shouldnt be hundreds of connections. I'd agree if all the OP's crimps are failing, there is something that they are doing wrong. I've had my ratcheting crimper for over 15 years and it makes consistent crimps every time, I've taught my 9 year old to use it.

alctel · 31-12-2015, 10:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maine Sail

The SeaDog tool is a cheap knock off of the FTZ..

It is? Yikes! Looks exactly the same and cost me ~$50 I think

colemj · 31-12-2015, 10:46

If I was to completely rewire our boat, as the OP implies he is, there would easily be hundreds of crimp connections to be made. Might even push close to 1000.

There is more than 200 crimped connections on our main panel alone.

Mark

Terra Nova · 31-12-2015, 10:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by pcmm

Actually most of your crimping on a boat will typically be either a butt crimp (to connect the pigtails from the fixture to your wire) and ring terminals to connect your wire to the busbar and breaker...

If your major electrical work is just to install a pig-tailed interior light, or two, then you might mostly use butt splices. But there's usually a much better way to make the connection.

For example, many/most electric bilge pumps and float switches come with pigtails. But these should never be butt-spliced except on rare conditions. Better tech is to terminate the pigtails on a terminal strip. This facilitates testing and service/replacement. Otherwise the butt-splice connector must be cut off each time a pump or float switch needs replacing. This eventually results in wires being extended with yet even more butt-splice connectors. Often large coils of excess wire are coiled up at every connection, just to provide for attrition, but actually creating a catchall that cannot be easily kept clean. And it is readily apparent that some DIY'er didn't take the time it takes to do it right.

Badsanta · 31-12-2015, 12:24

It's amazing how brittle and black the older wire gets from just sitting inside a boat.

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