Question on how to remove toilet bowl stain

[ProfesssorBob]

Dear Cruisers,
I left my boat for a few weeks last summer and a brown residue formed in the top layer of water in my toilet bowl. I have been unable to clean the stain. Any ideas?

[MarkJ]

Bleach is your friend.
Pump out all the water from the bowl and pour in bleach. Leave it till the stain has gone. It will only take a few minutes but its fine in there for hours.

[Stu Jackson]

And the bleach will eat the rubber parts, per Peggie Hall. Don't do it. Get some FSR or oxalytic acid granules from a hardware store. Flush a lot when done.

[MarkJ]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

And the bleach will eat the rubber parts, per Peggie Hall. Don't do it. Get some FSR or oxalytic acid granules from a hardware store. Flush a lot when done.

Actually bleach wont eat rubber parts.

I tested with an old Jabsco O ring. I put it in a pot of bleach for a week and it was fine.

[newhaul]

Barkeepers friend or toilet bowl cleaner with hydrochloric acid (muratic acid ) commonly sold at dollar stores and Walmart branded as the works toilet bowl cleaner

[chuckr]

We had a similar problem and used vinagar. did it a couple of times, pour it in let it sit and flush, may have to wipe it down after 2nd time. Worked good for us.

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Bob.

[SailFastTri]

Don't leave vinegar sitting - it will deform the rubber joker valve and other rubber parts. But I do agree about using acid. It will clean up quickly. Hull cleaners (for eating barnacles and scum) are also acid and work well. Flush well so they don't have a chance to permeate the rubber.

[SailFastTri]

Originally Posted by MarkJ

Actually bleach wont eat rubber parts.

I tested with an old Jabsco O ring. I put it in a pot of bleach for a week and it was fine.

And then your tank stank. Bleach would kill all the bacteria in your holding tank including the aerobic bacteria that reduce odor. You need ventilation and aerobic bacteria to keep tank odor down.

[weavis]

In the States, I used that 3 in one liquid cleaner for lime, rust and something else........ worked a treat.

[Larry T.]

Weavis, I think the product you are thinking of is "CLR", standing for :Calcium, Lime, Rust.
Larry

[weavis]

Originally Posted by Larry T.

Weavis, I think the product you are thinking of is "CLR", standing for :Calcium, Lime, Rust.
Larry

Thanks Larry...... been out the States for a couple of years after 14 living there and the memories fade has started already.

[redhead]

a word from a plumber with 40 years experience, muriatic acid, found in hardware stores works great. CLR is next best. Clorox is not fatal to plastic parts in your toiler but will harm rubber to one degree or another,depends on age and condition

Have fun!

[MarkJ]

Originally Posted by SailFastTri

And then your tank stank. Bleach would kill all the bacteria in your holding tank including the aerobic bacteria that reduce odor. You need ventilation and aerobic bacteria to keep tank odor down.

Tank????


But I get your point. if you are using holding tanks it would be a good idea to flush the bleach straight over the side. Maybe wait till you are at sea to do it.


Mark

[svHyLyte]

Originally Posted by ProfesssorBob

Dear Cruisers,
I left my boat for a few weeks last summer and a brown residue formed in the top layer of water in my toilet bowl. I have been unable to clean the stain. Any ideas?

Assuming you are in the US, pickup some Whink Rust Stain Remover at your local grocery or hardware store, use the product to wet some toilet tissue and layer the moistened tissue over the stained areas (wearing gloves!). Within a hour or two, the stains should be (mostly) gone although complete removal may take several applications. Rather than flushing the tissue through your system, collect the material with a paper towel and dispose of it in a trash receptacle and rinse the bowl with fresh water. Scouring is unwise as it may/will scratch the bowl surface making it more prone to staining/discoloration in future. Likewise, bleach may erode the plastic surface of the tubing in the base of the unit regardless of whether, or not, it has an adverse effect on seals and valves.

FWIW...

PS: In future it would be wise to simply not leave standing water in one's toilet bowl. Most marine heads have the ability to be pumped dry, or all but dry, and, unless you have a defective Joker Valve, the head should remain so until needed again, when some "flush" water can be pumped into the bowl before use, eh?