giving up on Shurflo water pumps

[lucseawalker]

We use Shurflo water pumps since the 90' and were pretty pleased with them until about 5 years ago. I am not speaking about these original pumps that lasted over 20 years and rarely needed any repairs at all. I am referring to their latest models that leak after less than 3 years or with pressure switches acting up within a year! From speaking with other cruisers, we are far from the only ones experiencing such poor quality pumps

I just too out a pump that had water going into the motor part ... found out when black water came out from the spigot! This is the second time such thing happens. Countless times, the pumps run continuously or not at all because something happens with the pressure switch!

Looks like the problem is the 3-part or 4-part chamber rubber gasket that leaks inward and let water pressure water up (even tho we hang the pumps motor up/wet chamber down as they should be mounted).

I am wondering if anyone has recommendation for a good brand of water pump as I am giving up on Shurflo water pumps
Anyone using any brands for at least 5-10 years without issues anymore?

I just ordered some Seaflo pumps ... am I looking for more frustrations? At least the price is better so it might make sense to toss and replace instead of reconditioning like I normally rather do! Reconditioning Shurflo pumps just lead for frustration and breakdown down the line

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by lucseawalker

I am wondering if anyone has recommendation for a good brand of water pump as I am giving up on Shurflo water pumps
Anyone using any brands for at least 5-10 years without issues anymore?

Flojet, this Nov. it will be 30 years old, have replaced the valves/diaphragm one time.
Using an external adjustable pressure switch and a 2gal. accumulator tank.
Pump is mounted such that it doesn't have to "lift" water from the tank(s).

[CarlF]

I also gave up on Shurflo some years ago - but to be fair it was the variable speed pump that lets you not have an accumulator tank. I have yet to have any brand of the variable speed pumps work very well.

I also prefer a Flojet - the venerable “Quad” model. 3.3GPM (the 5.0GPM seems less reliable), often labeled 4405 although Flojet likes to have lots of model numbers for what appears to be the same pump. I can’t remember this model pump ever failing - despite my habit of running it for over a hour twice a month to run the tank dry. I do this to get of any stale tasting tank water.

Always include an accumulator tank.

[jcapo]

I have a Johnson fresh water pump and a saltwater wash down pump. Both are 8 or so years old. Fresh water pump used daily. Good so far.

[lucseawalker]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

Flojet, this Nov. it will be 30 years old, have replaced the valves/diaphragm one time.
Using an external adjustable pressure switch and a 2gal. accumulator tank.
Pump is mounted such that it doesn't have to "lift" water from the tank(s).

That is great ... but do they still make these pumps the way they did 30 yrs ago ... I sure hope so! Our pumps are low in the bilges so they do not need to lift water from the tanks either ..

[CaptainRivet]

Another vote for flojet, on my old ketch going strong for >20years.
Problem is we don‘t know how today’s flojet will do in 5 or 10years as they may save money today too. Nearly everything today gets more expensive but less quality and even constructed in flaws so it breaks soon after warranty.
On critical things or basic mechanic stuff I tend to more and more to buy really old used and recondition even that cost (nearly) the same as new.

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by lucseawalker

That is great ... but do they still make these pumps the way they did 30 yrs ago ... I sure hope so! ..

That I can't answer.
My 'gut" feeling is that most electro-mechanical devices give a longer life span when operated in the lower part of the load curve.
As such I operate it at a lower pressure.
Generally, the standard/pre-set pressure setting of a commonly available "Square D", or "Furnas" pressure switch is cut-in at 20psi, cut-out at 40psi.
I re-set mine to cut-in at 15psi, cut-out at 30psi.
So my cut-out is ~25>30% lower, (pressures not exact).
However, I use 5/8ths plumbing instead of the common 1/2in size.
Since, (not splitting hairs,) the 5/8ths lines have ~30% more area, I get a roughly equal flow rate at less pressure.
The pump doesn't have to work as hard, it operates at less pressure and has less flow restriction to pump against for ~ the same gpm.

[lucseawalker]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

That I can't answer.
My 'gut" feeling is that most electro-mechanical devices give a longer life span when operated in the lower part of the load curve.
As such I operate it at a lower pressure.
Generally, the standard/pre-set pressure setting of a commonly available "Square D", or "Furnas" pressure switch is cut-in at 20psi, cut-out at 40psi.
I re-set mine to cut-in at 15psi, cut-out at 30psi.
So my cut-out is ~25>30% lower, (pressures not exact).
However, I use 5/8ths plumbing instead of the common 1/2in size.
Since, (not splitting hairs,) the 5/8ths lines have ~30% more area, I get a roughly equal flow rate at less pressure.
The pump doesn't have to work as hard, it operates at less pressure and has less flow restriction to pump against for ~ the same gpm.

all good points, tnx

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

That I can't answer.
My 'gut" feeling is that most electro-mechanical devices give a longer life span when operated in the lower part of the load curve.
As such I operate it at a lower pressure.
Generally, the standard/pre-set pressure setting of a commonly available "Square D", or "Furnas" pressure switch is cut-in at 20psi, cut-out at 40psi.
I re-set mine to cut-in at 15psi, cut-out at 30psi.
So my cut-out is ~25>30% lower, (pressures not exact).
However, I use 5/8ths plumbing instead of the common 1/2in size.
Since, (not splitting hairs,) the 5/8ths lines have ~30% more area, I get a roughly equal flow rate at less pressure.
The pump doesn't have to work as hard, it operates at less pressure and has less flow restriction to pump against for ~ the same gpm.

Bigger pipe and less pressure result in the same flow rate IF the pressure and flo rate in the system was high enough to get the water everywhere you need it. Means you pump is actually oversized to generate the same flow rate with bigger pipes. I eg have the problem in my cat that both heads have good water flo but the galley not as water needs to be pumped up from the hull again and pressure at the end in the galley is low and too less cold water flow. (I decalcified the whole system which made it a bit better lately)
So i needed to raise the overall pressure to get a good flo at the galley and put water saving device in both heads at the sinks to reduce water flow not to waste too much water. Means my pump is undersized for my system.
Will install a 2nd pump with a bigger flo rate so i can lower pressure and use current as backup.

[ttex]

It sounds like a plumbing issue not a pump issue.

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by ttex

It sounds like a plumbing issue not a pump issue.

No i checked, all whale fast connector pipes and like factory installed them. Whale only supplies T pieces and no y-piece so you have that the part where the water needs to go 90 degrees you have a higher pressure loss then where water goes straight through. And then that the water must be pumped from the hull up again to the galley and this T piece losing some pressure and pump is most likely too small for that additionally.
On cold water line you have more connections then on the hot water side, means more pressure loss thats why there is a slight difference.

[SavMel]

Here's a tip to extend the life of a fresh water pressure pump with failing pressure switches.

The micro switches they use nowadays on the pressure cutoff circuit are cheapo microswitches designed for things like microwave/refrigerator door light circuits. If you disassemble one and have a look at the ratings on the microswitch, you'll find that we're just barely under the stated operating current. The key here though, is the motors on these pumps are highly inductive loads. You can't change current flow through an inductive circuit instantly. The voltage will spike until current flow can continue. This means that when the microswitch attempts to break the circuit, an arc occurs. This arcing eats away at the contact material. This happens every time the pump cycles.

The key to extending the life of this circuit is to install a relay. A relay is much more capable of handling switching of inductive loads and will last much longer. Cut the micro switch circuit open, and connect that circuit to drive the coil of the relay. Then connect the motor power to the big side of the relay. This will solve the reliability problem of the pressure cutoff circuit.

[senormechanico]

Save Me!
Exactly right. I have done this for motor driven applications on my boats for years and it works.

[Scott Berg]

We use Groco paragon pumps
But once for life
More pressure
More flow
US made
Last forever