Viking anchors-the next level

[rslifkin]

It's really refreshing to see a company constantly experimenting to see if they can make something better than their current products. It seems like that doesn't happen much in the boating world unless they're just trying to make the next shiny tech toy.

[CaptainRivet]

Is there any news here about the new Viking anchor?

[Izikalvo]

We did face some delays, particularly with our small-size anchors and the new Odin model, partly due to the situation in Ukraine. But we've made progress, thanks to efforts from various quarters, including Zelinsky's team. Currently, we're in the process of manufacturing two Odin anchors of each size. These, along with the small-size anchors we've been missing, should be ready to ship to our Belgium hub early next month. Once they arrive, we'll conduct final tests, ensuring they meet our standards. After that, we'll be sending them out for aggressive testing with boaters who've been eagerly awaiting them.

Thank you for your interest, anchor safely

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by Izikalvo

We did face some delays, particularly with our small-size anchors and the new Odin model, partly due to the situation in Ukraine. But we've made progress, thanks to efforts from various quarters, including Zelinsky's team. Currently, we're in the process of manufacturing two Odin anchors of each size. These, along with the small-size anchors we've been missing, should be ready to ship to our Belgium hub early next month. Once they arrive, we'll conduct final tests, ensuring they meet our standards. After that, we'll be sending them out for aggressive testing with boaters who've been eagerly awaiting them.

Thank you for your interest, anchor safely

Thanks.
With small size you means the Viking 10 and 15 of old design?

I suggest you add a hole into the anchor (definitely new design but old will be good to) where it technically fits to shackle in a tandem anchor so I can raise the holding power if you eg get caught riding out an hurricane or similar on anchor. Last years storms in med shows you also need a plan for the exceptional worst case events in med too, not only Caribbean in hurricane season.
I eg would plan to get a Viking 15 as main and a 10 as rear anchor that I could put in tandem, means inline first the 10 and with 10m chain the 2nd 15, in such a case (or my old 20kg Lewmar Delta I keep as spare)
The compeptitors eg Rocha have that and it’s just a hole more you have to drill on the right spot before galvanizing. Shackling that into chain without such a hole gives the possibility that the chain of the tandem anchor interferes with the first could get ripped out by connecting chain because it could get caught underneath it when passing…sadly know a mono where exactly that happened and they ended up on a reef.
If you have the hole in the right spot on the shank that cannot happen as the chain connects to the end of the 1st anchor but not passing it to connect to the same point the 1st anchor is connected. Makes things safer and easier to handle.

[fxykty]

Originally Posted by CaptainRivet

Thanks.
With small size you means the Viking 10 and 15 of old design?

I suggest you add a hole into the anchor (definitely new design but old will be good to) where it technically fits to shackle in a tandem anchor so I can raise the holding power if you eg get caught riding out an hurricane or similar on anchor. Last years storms in med shows you also need a plan for the exceptional worst case events in med too, not only Caribbean in hurricane season.
I eg would plan to get a Viking 15 as main and a 10 as rear anchor that I could put in tandem, means inline first the 10 and with 10m chain the 2nd 15, in such a case (or my old 20kg Lewmar Delta I keep as spare)
The compeptitors eg Rocha have that and it’s just a hole more you have to drill on the right spot before galvanizing. Shackling that into chain without such a hole gives the possibility that the chain of the tandem anchor interferes with the first could get ripped out by connecting chain because it could get caught underneath it when passing…sadly know a mono where exactly that happened and they ended up on a reef.
If you have the hole in the right spot on the shank that cannot happen as the chain connects to the end of the 1st anchor but not passing it to connect to the same point the 1st anchor is connected. Makes things safer and easier to handle.

Tandem anchors is a whole different discussion and you’ll find passionate supporters of both sides of tandem vs two separate rodes.

Regarding the hole that other anchors have, that’s to reeve a retrieving line if you want to pull your anchor out backwards. It’s NOT meant for a tandem setup.

[Tin Tin]

Is this anchor Lloyds certified?

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by fxykty

Tandem anchors is a whole different discussion and you’ll find passionate supporters of both sides of tandem vs two separate rodes.

Regarding the hole that other anchors have, that’s to reeve a retrieving line if you want to pull your anchor out backwards. It’s NOT meant for a tandem setup.

Some do have a tandem attachment point in addition to the trip line point. IIRC that's why my Vulcan has 2 holes (1 low on the shank, 1 near the heel of the fluke).

[dlj]

I would be interested in much more detailed information about the galvanizing being used. I went to the producers Web site and it has no technical information to the level i would would like. You don't happen to have great detail on that do you?

dj

[Izikalvo]

I prefer, in the case of using 2 anchors, to use a V-shaped pattern, but we do have a hole at the back side of the shank near the fluke, for using another anchor in Tandem anchoring.

More info about galvanizing (HDG) you can find here: https://vikinganchors.com/data-cente...-anchor-s-life

[dlj]

Originally Posted by Izikalvo

I prefer, in the case of using 2 anchors, to use a V-shaped pattern, but we do have a hole at the back side of the shank near the fluke, for using another anchor in Tandem anchoring.

More info about galvanizing (HDG) you can find here: https://vikinganchors.com/data-cente...-anchor-s-life

Thank you for that link. It does not provide me the level of detail that I'm looking for. I would like to see a metallurgical cross sectional analysis with microindentation hardness numbers across the coating and base metal interfaces along with metallurgical phase identification.

dj

[fxykty]

Originally Posted by dlj

I would be interested in much more detailed information about the galvanizing being used. I went to the producers Web site and it has no technical information to the level i would would like. You don't happen to have great detail on that do you?

dj

IIRC he said they use Armorgalv http://www.armorgalv.com/.

Our own experience with Armorgalv on anchor chain has been very poor. So bad that we got our money back for the chain as well as the treatment (this was in Australia). Afterwards we got the chain sand blasted back to bare metal and had it hot dip galvanised. That works. This is a n=1 experience FWIW.

[Sos]

Originally Posted by fxykty

IIRC he said they use Armorgalv ArmorGalv.

Our own experience with Armorgalv on anchor chain has been very poor. So bad that we got our money back for the chain as well as the treatment (this was in Australia). Afterwards we got the chain sand blasted back to bare metal and had it hot dip galvanised. That works. This is a n=1 experience FWIW.

The link is for hot dipped galvanising (HDG), doesn't mention Armorgalv?

I wouldn't go for that on anything unless a decorative finish was to be applied over it. A bit like hot zinc sprayed which isn't as tough as HDG but still good and can be painted.
HDG for anchors and chain every time!

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by Izikalvo

I prefer, in the case of using 2 anchors, to use a V-shaped pattern, but we do have a hole at the back side of the shank near the fluke, for using another anchor in Tandem anchoring.

More info about galvanizing (HDG) you can find here: https://vikinganchors.com/data-cente...-anchor-s-life

Thanks, thats great to know old design has it already but on new i didn't see it in your 2 videos posted.
For me V anchoring is not possible and not favorable on my light 6.2t lightship, 8.5t fully liveaboard loaded cat because
A) you need 2 identical anchors which don't have, don't plan to get and don't have the space for in size and weight
B) not enough space and also weight of a 2nd anchor chain, i struggled to fit one proper 85m chain onboard and needed to do a lot of mods to achieve that plus too heavy. spitting that chain and use rod not safe for me compared to tandem.
C) in V holding power is defined by the weakest of the 2 anchor used, in comparison to tandem where the 2 are nearly added.
D) don't have 2 bow rollers to rig 2 anchors
E) if the V fails it will reset closer with less holding power and if that fails the 2 anchors can interfere with each other.

Compared to that tandem (which is planned for the very extrem situations i hope i will never get into but need to prepare on a world circum to also remote places) which gives me the max holding power i can achieve with what i have onboard
1) with 85m of 10mm chain (which is in 10mm in itself on the heavier side for this cat)i can achieve a good scope of 1:10
2) not having 2 anchor roller, i need to handle the 2nd anchor manually by hand which is easy and practical to do with a Viking 10 (my planed stern anchor with 10m chain and 30m rope, rope not used for tandem)who has close to the same holding power then my old 20 kg lewmar delta which would be the other option to use. but to handle 20kg manually, in worst case in the dingy is not practical. so the viking 10 is the better and much easier option to use.
2)I am also massivly overpowered with 2x50 instead 2x20hp on engine size so i can really dig in these 2 by engine.
3) in a veer or wind change the primary anchor will be most likely get ripped out and need to reset but thanks to 10m chain the viking 10 will not unless its a 180 degree wind change. But because it lighter it will most likly start to slightly drag which will help to reset and dig the primary properly and combined it will hold again.
4) i also shackle in after 10-15m of primary a 11kg anchor weight (which i anyhow have on board for eg thight anchorages). i know that does nothing till close to nothing effect but i have it anyway (not used it does for sure nothing) and if its just that 0,3% additional that then results in anchor holding it was worth doing it.

[rslifkin]

Personally I'd rather have a bigger primary and not worry about screwing with a tandem. The tandem can work ok, but it's easier to get it wrong or run into issues with it, so it's a risk better avoided in my mind.

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by rslifkin

Personally I'd rather have a bigger primary and not worry about screwing with a tandem. The tandem can work ok, but it's easier to get it wrong or run into issues with it, so it's a risk better avoided in my mind.

I will choose biggest in size (not weight!) that makes sense as main but if facing hurricane like conditions why not add the viking 10 as tandem anchor to support it. Light enough, so i can handle it manually and set the tandem correctly.
At the moment my 2 favorites main are the Viking 20 or Mantus M2 20 or 25, all will meet the 60kn hurricane condition holding. Viking would need mod to anchor roller, mantus M2 20 not, 25 uncertain but most likley not.

I am not counting to choose a smaller main one and use the 2nd to make a hurricane condition. But having a viking 10 lying around doing nothing while i have the possibility to support the main to get more holding power i choose to use it.