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06-12-2010, 03:46
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Grenada
Boat: Shorebro,Royal 33 - Aloisius
Posts: 1,059
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Securing C-Clamps to the Chain
When you attach the c-clams to the two ends of a chain, do you just hit the nipples with a hammer to flatten them out? Or is there a better way to be sure they are secure and firm?
Thanks, Dave
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06-12-2010, 04:03
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Geismar, LA near Baton Rouge
Boat: Vamos, a Ranger 28 Tall Rig
Posts: 151
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At first glance I thought you said C-clamps, which is used to hold things together. I was trying to bend my head around fastening those to the ends of a chain. Now, c-clams... I have no knowledge of and I am interested in these now. LOL
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06-12-2010, 04:39
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: abbeville la
Boat: seawind II Patience
Posts: 541
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Think means cold chucks is what we called them on farm.Used to lengthen chain.I usually put a weld on mine.Not sure these will go through a winch.marc
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06-12-2010, 06:26
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Grenada
Boat: Shorebro,Royal 33 - Aloisius
Posts: 1,059
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I guess they are called chian clips. They look like twoc's put together on top of each other in opposite directions. Nipples go through to connect the two halves. It looks like you hammer these to make secure?
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06-12-2010, 06:28
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#5
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Senior Cruiser

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N x 89-20W
Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt)
Posts: 46,449
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Do you mean connecting links, like these?
➥ Catalog No. 5200634 Product Detail
Yes, hammer them over.
"Effective closure, peen to fill eye of mating half as much as possible."
__________________
Gord May
"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"
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06-12-2010, 07:09
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Naples, FL
Boat: Leopard Catamaran
Posts: 2,436
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I use the ones that go in a complete overlapping circle, and I hammer them.
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06-12-2010, 08:17
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: puget sound/ caribbean
Boat: never wrecked a boat while awake or sober
Posts: 331
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I replace chain. Would not trust 'em.
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06-12-2010, 14:22
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Grenada
Boat: Shorebro,Royal 33 - Aloisius
Posts: 1,059
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yes they are connecting links. We are normally on a mooring so only need the extra chain on a few occasions. I have 150 feet, will add an additional 75. Thanks Dave
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06-12-2010, 18:18
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Southern Chesapeake Bay
Boat: Norseman 430, Jabberwock
Posts: 1,208
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Since (I believe ) those are weaker that the chain, I use instead 2 shackles or a double clevis connector. Not sure that is the right name, but that's what it is. This is on a mooring chain that doesn't have to go over a chainwheel.
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08-12-2010, 03:30
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Grenada
Boat: Shorebro,Royal 33 - Aloisius
Posts: 1,059
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I am using this on a chain when I am not on my mooring. Already have 150 - 170' added 75 just to be secure when anchoring in deeper water. Yes it makes the bow heavier, I will see after this month of sailing if it is noticable.
When a big storm hits I am either on my mooring, or sail awhile from the area. ABC's or south.
Thanks Dave
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08-12-2010, 05:13
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#11
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Moderator Emeritus

Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Key West & Sarasota
Boat: Cal 28 "Happy Days"
Posts: 4,210
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Most of that type of link is proof coil at best, definitely weak-link in the system. Many are not galvanized either. To answer the OP, yes you peen (hammer) the tits flush with the pocket on the female link.
__________________
Any fool with a big enough checkbook can BUY a boat; it takes a SPECIAL type of fool to build his own! -Capngeo
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08-12-2010, 06:40
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 165
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Is there a reliable way to join 2 lengths of chain together that will go through a windlass and hawse pipe that does not require welding a new link into the 2 chains?
__________________
S/V Katabatik
Leopard 46
San Francisco, CA
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08-12-2010, 07:42
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#13
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Marine Service Provider
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 407
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1) The strongest and simplest way is going to be with two high load shackles.
2) The permanent but most involved way is to get a link custom fabricated in place. You will have to proof test the section including the new link to 50% the chain's break figure.
3) A semi-permanent C link per this thread. See below.
C-links
YBW in the UK published a destruction test of connectors including C links some time ago. The author's own write-up is online, see link above. The predictable answer is that you get what you pay for, most are junk, some are okay. Chicken Little rants to avoid C links per se are ignorant of the facts.
In the context of 8 mm G40 chain, the ACCO connector was 96% as strong as the chain and the Crosby connector was 92%.
Measurable reductions but workable if you know about them. Maintain the link, keep it clean and examine for wear routinely.
The American C-links above are more likely to suit American chains, anecdotal reports are that they are fine even with metric EN and DIN too even if they don't match the chain dimensions exactly.
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08-12-2010, 08:01
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wherever the boat is!
Boat: Marine Trader 34DC
Posts: 4,619
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We have used the C connectors on our chain for 20 years and they last just as long as the chain. Ours was BBB 3/8 and yes, you just hammer the nipples. We have anchored thousands of times in every bottom condition and in every wind speed up to and including SEVERAL hurricanes and the connectors have never failed. They are the only connectors that will roll through our windlass as effortlessly as the chain itself. There are different qualities of these connectors, just as there are for shackles, so get a good quality. Chuck
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08-12-2010, 08:14
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 165
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Craigsmith, thanks for the info
__________________
S/V Katabatik
Leopard 46
San Francisco, CA
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