How to Make a Snubber-Bridle Question

[klem]

Originally Posted by 67Therapy

I was wondering about line weight. For my boat (49'), I think 3/4" dock lines are about right and was going to use 5/8 on the snubber, but was wondering if it would have enough stretch.

Along the lines of what I recommended for a 32' boat, I think that your snubber should start to have real stretch once the chain is close to pulling straight. If you size your snubber for stretch in more benign conditions, you don't get much benefit in light winds as your chain does a good job there and you end up with something that is more likely to break in higher winds. A 50' boat is likely to have its chain pulled tight with about 1000 lbs of force (obviously dependent on chain size and length) so you need a line that will stretch at this point.

The amount a line stretches is related to its diameter, material, construction and length. Assuming you are using 3 strand nylon, you get to play with length and diameter. More diameter means less stretch but greater durability and more length means more stretch. In conditions that require lots of stretch, it is usually not unreasonable to have 30' of snubber out.

5/8" is probably not a bad place to start for a snubber on a 49' boat. At 1000 lbs, it will have significant stretch but it should also have plenty of safety factor when the wind picks up to a strong gale and you are seeing more than 2000 lbs. If you are setup for storm conditions, then a mooring pendant is not a bad place to look for line diameter. 1" would probably be a good place to start for real storm conditions.

You will need to experiment with your setup and your boat. Luckily, adjusting snubber length is usually pretty easy but if you find that you are way off in terms of stretch, you may need to change diameters as well.

[RabidRabbit]

Yes traditionaly a snubber is for stretch, I would just not be satisfied with 3/8 line for any anchoring related issue. My snubber is mainly to get rid of chain noise and the Y permits me to cleat off 5 feet farther aft on the boat. The whole scope of my anchoring gear/tackle is overkill and I really fear no weather.
Kettlewell- Your posts are generally spot on and I rarely disagree, but I'll choose to pass on your snubber advice.

[cfarrar]

One thought: I've found that if you splice directly to a galvanized chain hook the course surface of the metal, augmented by a little corrosion, chafes the strands when using your snubber in a blow. So there's something to be said for a stainless chain hook or thimble and shackle arrangement. Or just ditch the chain hook and use a hitch!

[jackdale]

Originally Posted by Kettlewell

People make snubbers way too complicated. Get a hunk of 3-strand nylon and tape or whip the ends, tie one end to something on the boat so you don't lose it (usually the base of a cleat for me) and then use a rolling hitch to the tie the other end to the chain or rope, adjust length, and cleat off. If you prefer, splice it or use a bowline to tie it to the chain hook. Never had one fail. Tieing the chain hook on means you can refresh the end once in awhile in about 30 seconds if you are worried about chafe.

+1 for rolling hitches.

KISS

[Bash]

Originally Posted by cfarrar

One thought: I've found that if you splice directly to a galvanized chain hook the course surface of the metal, augmented by a little corrosion, chafes the strands when using your snubber in a blow. So there's something to be said for a stainless chain hook or thimble and shackle arrangement. Or just ditch the chain hook and use a hitch!

Everything you've said makes perfect sense, but I've got a no-thimble snubber right now that I transfered from my old boat to my new boat almost 7 years ago, a snubber that's been used four or five hundred times, that refuses to chafe through despite the fact that that the galvanized chain hook is rusty.

I hadn't intended to splice the hook without the thimble, I just forgot. Figured it would have to be thrown away after a few months. However, the damned thing won't die.

Basically, I've lost my faith in thimbles. If they just make it harder to do an end splice, why bother?

[cfarrar]

Bash, maybe you don't get chafe because you're a better splicer than I am, and your strands don't budge?

One of my galvanized hooks (partially) chafed through the 3-strand, and come to think of it, the culprit may have been the winter in the Bahamas followed by a few months sitting unused (ie, corrosion under the splice) follow by a little more use. Anyway, now I use a stainless hook for convenience and a hitch when it counts.

[JPA Cate]

Hi, guys,

Even though our boat dances at anchor --probably due to a lot of windage forward, with our Solent rig-- we use a single snubber line. It is 16 mm double braid nylon, and is connected to an s/s chainhook by an eye splice. Jim launches it over the roller, adjacent to the chain, and its total length is about 15-18 feet. We've been using this setup about 10 yrs., and it's the second snubber line, now, as we lost one. It is quite stout, and we have seen it merrily stretching on occasion.

I like the idea of having another bow cleat available to secure a second anchor to, if need due to a change in wind direction or wind strength, or both (as can happen during a frontal passage, and otherwise one might be too close for comfort to "those rocks over there").

Ann Cate, s/v Insatiable II, Hobart, Tasmania, Australia

[Kenomac]

I'd also recommend incorporating a rubber mooring compensator on each of the two lines leading to a deck cleat.

[lancelot9898]

I anchor with 80 ft of chain and the rest 3 strand nylon line. I wanted a bridle that could be attached to either the chain or the line depending on how much scope I needed. I used about a 40 ft length of braided line and tied a alpine butterfly loop in the middle of that line. I attached a large shackle to that loop. Next I used another braided line of a lesser diameter than my 3 strand anchor line and maybe a total length of 6 feet...that line is tied into a loop......it is then attached directly to the anchor line be it the chain or the line using a kleimheist knot.....

The sequence goes like this
After anchoring, the 40 ft line is removed from the locker and one end is attached to the starboard cleat and the other to the port with the loop and shackle on the bow pulpit

Next the other line is tied directly to the anchor line using the kleimheist knot....that knot has a loop also so that the shackle on the bridle is undone and both lines are now attached using the shackle

The anchor line is let out more so that the bridle takes the strain

[Paul Elliott]

The "Y" splice in the top image is the same splice you use for an eye-splice. Instead of splicing the line back to itself (for the eye), you are splicing the second line to the first.

My snubber is a long length of 1/2" nylon. when I want a bridle, I just double the line, and tie a rolling hitch to the chain with the doubled center portion. For a single bridle I use a regular rolling hitch. It works fine.

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[forsailbyowner]

I'm building a new snubber now. Last one got snagged by some dumba+s fisherman cutting across my bow. I made mine from 1/2" on the single line and 3/4 on the lines that cleat to the bow. I wormed parcelled and served the lines from the junction of the Y to the point where it wraps the cleat. This time I used a retired 1/2" halyard for the serving. Its thick!!! Then where all three lines meet I'm tying a T turkshead . That way the area the chain rides in is all big time chafe protected. I get fancy with mine and do long tapered splices. Why not show off some marlinespike seamanship here? I also use fancy needle whipping on the terminal ends.

[Vasco]

35 ft 5/8 three strand nylon, spliced directly to ss chainhook and three feet of 1" hose for chafe. I lead it over the bow roller and cleat it on one of my bow mooring cleats. How much I let out depends on the conditions.

[S/V Alchemy]

Originally Posted by Kenomac

I'd also recommend incorporating a rubber mooring compensator on each of the two lines leading to a deck cleat.

I was a little surprised not to see this. They are simple and useful ways to add a little bounce to the bridle process.

[Bash]

Originally Posted by cfarrar

Bash, maybe you don't get chafe because you're a better splicer than I am, and your strands don't budge?

Funny you mention that. This particular splice was a work of art, as close to a perfect splice as I've ever done. Wonderblond was down below while I did it, but I called her up to the cockpit to admire this beautiful new snubber. Her first response was, "Why didn't you use the thimble?"

Up to that point I hadn't even noticed that I'd forgotten the thimble, which was sitting next to me on the cushion.

Sigh. Pride goeth before fall.