Galvanizing -- how far to go

[rslifkin]

The claw knockoffs are pretty similar to the original Bruce, but by many accounts, they don't work quite as well. And neither works nearly as well across as wide a range of conditions as some of the more modern designs. Not to say the Bruce is a bad anchor or should be immediately replaced on any boat, but considering the better options out there, I wouldn't spend money to buy a Bruce (or claw).

[Jammer]

Right, so there are three problems with the Bruce clone as a backup anchor:


1) As mentioned upthread, the clones don't perform as well as genuine Bruce anchors because of subtle differences in shape.


2) While an excellent anchor in many ways, the holding power of the Bruce is low for its size, so that a larger and heavier anchor is required. This is particularly problematic for a secondary anchor that may be stowed below or otherwise have to be handled by hand.

3) The Bruce is a one-piece anchor. High-quality designs are available now that can be disassembled and stored flat.


The original Bruce was a fine anchor in its day in many ways. There are better alternatives now.

[wsmurdoch]

I've had my anchor chain re-galvanized three times. The first time the chain was well done, and it was proof tested after it was galvanized. The second time was at the same firm, and the chain was again well done, but it was not proof tested. That firm stopped doing chain because of the labor requirement and because of a decrease in demand with the collapse of the coal mining industry. The third time I had the chain re-galvanized at a second firm. The chain had a few fused links and some short drip tails. A little work on my part with a hammer and file fixed that. That firm later stopped doing chain as well. Each time I included anchors, shackles, my shorter lengths of chain, and the chains and hardware of friends to make an attractive weight. I had my Bruce and my Simpson Lawrence Plow re-galvanized. I wish I had sharpened the Bruce before it was re-galvanized.

[sailingharry]

So I've been reading the comments with interest. Some responses.


* I'm using the shop Sailing Harmonie had so much success with.
* I have a nice utility trailer and a scrap pallet to put stuff on. (the shop will fork it off).
* The boat is out of the water (first time in 4 years, loving Interlux Micron Extra!), so unloading it is super easy -- back trailer up, push "DOWN" on the windlass.
* The comments (err... cut-and-paste quote direct from ROCNA -- can't argue with that!) on regalvanizing the ROCNA have me quite concerned. That coupled with the reminder that zinc (unlike chrome) protects nearby metal. Gives a tip toward cold galvanizing and forget it.
* A bunch of folks suggested buying new chain. A quick browse of the net indicates about $5/ft, compared to $1/ft to regalvanize. For sure, my current cruising plans no longer support the need for 300 ft -- but it would suck to only buy 150 and regret it in 2 years!
* The Claw sits very nicely on my bow sprit. It is a solid #2 -- it's hardly a "bad" anchor. Spending big money on a new gen #2 that will never get used (5 years and 8000 miles and the Claw has never been set) doesn't appeal to me (and the Bruce has zero resale value, so that doesn't offset the cost). I have a Fortress FX-37 (IIRC) under the quarter berth (and it's only been used to hold the bow into the swell in near 0 wind -- I now carry an 8lb Danforth for that). Sharpening the Claw before regalvanizing sounds like a good tip.

[CMH]

Just got back from Mexicali MX (3.5 hour drive) where I dropped off my 75 lb Delta and 200 ft of 1/2” chain for re galvanizing. Cost is .40 cents per lb. Have heard good things about the place. Yeah I would like to purchase new, but at $5000 or so for new, I couldn’t swing it.
Chris

[Wallaby]

I re-galvanized 230 ft of 3/8 chain last year. A 60-mile drive to drop off. Return, pickup and return was a total of 240 miles. The chain was ACCO, new in 2012, with the ends flipped a few years ago. The chain is always washed in fresh water when I return from the annual migration to the Bahamas.


After 11 years, there was surface rust in a few areas, no flaking, and no damage; however, it was clear that rust was beginning to be an issue. The galvanizing charge was about 40-50% of the original cost of the chain.



The downside: some links 'fused' together. It is not difficult to break them apart. Also galvanizing 'beads' make the chain rougher to handle, but break off over use. The main advantage of regalvanizing is the added thickness of zinc.

[Capt.Don]

Originally Posted by CMH

Just got back from Mexicali MX (3.5 hour drive) where I dropped off my 75 lb Delta and 200 ft of 1/2” chain for re galvanizing. Cost is .40 cents per lb. Have heard good things about the place. Yeah I would like to purchase new, but at $5000 or so for new, I couldn’t swing it.
Chris

We also had our chain regalvanized in Mexicalli - 175' for around $75. We dropped it off at the end of our sailing season in October and picked it back up at the beginning of the next season in March.

Chain is so much better than before. Was leaving rust stains all over the anchor locker, foredeck, windlass....

Back to the OP -- just do it, unless your links are showing significant corrosion, loss of material.

Don

[SaltyMetals]

Hot Dip galv is a completely different layer of zinc than electroplating. In hot dip galv the zinc and steel combine together to make an intermetallic layer with increasing Zn % and less Fe% as you work from the substrate to the surface. As others have said the Zn will protect exposed steel edges at a distance so no great worry if you have a few slightly rusty edges or rusty point.
When re-galvanising i suggest you pick a galvaniser who is using pure Zn without the addition of a small % of Ni. What the Ni does is to prevent the galv layer becoming too think so the galvaniser ends up using less Zn.After galvanising the finish is the same bright finish so you would hardly notice the difference if they had been using the Ni alloyed variant in their bath. Ni percent is v small (0.15%). As an aside, i suspect this is the problem with Spade anchors since they seem to rust rather quickly. When galvanising chain the tidy way of doing it is with a galvaniser who has a spin-galv setup. This spins the chain or bolts after lifting out of the molten bath, throws off excess Zn and therefore minimises the drips, tags and links stuck together. It is absolutely standard practice for galvanising nuts and bolts so that the threads do not get gummed up with Zn. The same with chain to avoid the links getting stuck together.

Sure you can get your chain galvanised by any standard galvaniser who does not have a spin-galv setup and the drips and tags will just leave you with the advantage of extra Zn and will wear down eventually. The extra Zn will actually make your chain last longer. The Angle of repose in the chain locker might be a bit steeper because of the rough surface. Every 4-5 years I give my chain a cold Zn spray which i am sure will make it last longer which is cheaper than re-galvanising but is certainly never going to be as effective as re-galvanising. After a fresh water rinse and dry I then spray it with a silicone spray every month or so which reduces the angle of repose since my boat does not enjoy a very deep chain locker so the chain would otherwise pile up and then jam the windlass.
Andrew

[sailingharry]

Originally Posted by SaltyMetals

When re-galvanising i suggest you pick a galvaniser who is using pure Zn without the addition of a small % of Ni. What the Ni does is to prevent the galv layer becoming too think so the galvaniser ends up using less Zn.


my boat does not enjoy a very deep chain locker so the chain would otherwise pile up and then jam the windlass.
Andrew

I haven't actually had mine done yet, but I gather from my phone call that the galvanizer is encouraged to INCREASE the zinc thickness. His quoted price based on chain weight is an estimate -- the actual bill will be based on the amount of zinc deposited on the chain. More zinc ->> bigger bill.


On jamming a windlass. After decades of being the only windlass on the boat (young kid, then broke adult), I chartered a boat with a windlass. First morning out, backed chain up, jammed windlass, blew fuse -- and then diagnosed boat systems...LOL. Live and learn!

[Cheechako]

When I see dark grey old galvanizing I'm happy. That's how good old school galvanizing looks. Any 'galvanizing' that stays bright is suspect in my book.

I don't think I would spend $60 regalvanizing a Bruce much less a knock off. It looks pretty good to me but can see it really well If it's not your main anchor it's going to last a long time as is.

[Icarus]

If I need an instruction manual for 'how to regalvanise a boat anchor' I wouldn't want it...

[Mickeyrouse]

I have re-galvanized chain and anchors several times. Well worth it. Do it.

[glanrock]

Originally Posted by sailingharry

... A local shop (Baltimore, MD, USA) can do it for around $1/lb. That part is easy. I'll be doing it later this winter.
...

Hello! I need to get my 5/16 chain re-galvanized and am near Bmore. Can you let me know where you are going?

Alternate is to get new and not sure where to go to get that. Can you tell me where you look for prices for new?




Thanks!

[sailingharry]

I am going here: https://www.baltimoregalv.com/


Sailing Harmonie had good success with them, and I have friends who have had good results.


They have a minimum (can't recall details, but around $300 -- but 300' of chain hits that and I have at least two more friends adding even more weight). They have no problem weighing and processing multiple lots -- but the bill must be to a single person and paid by that person. So you can get a few friends, and afterwards split the bill pro-rated by weight.

[glanrock]

@sailingharry


Thanks very much for the info! Especially the minimum, good to know.