Rigging pin replacement question

[Russ]

If you torch them you may ruin the turnbuckle it self.

[Goodxcharly]

I never heard of pins failing unless the cotter pin falls out which you might check.

[Icarus]

Good idea to replace the pins, especially if the are fitted in a corroded tube..crevis corrosion? ...As well stainless steel can crystallise under repeated stress load...
It might be just about be impossible to remove a frozen pin without heat or brute force..swinging in a bosun chair

[barnakiel]

A pin that looks nice and clean is sound. The corrosion is probably on the aluminum side.


Easy to tell - red - SS rust, replace pins. White = aluminum corroded, clean the pins, inspect and reuse (if sound).


Crevice corrosion starts on the outside - is visible on vis inspect.



b.

[Bowdrie]

Virtually all of the downward force on that bolt is taken at the point where the bolt exits the mast.
Some masts use doubler plates on each side, others welded in a tube.
The tube method is fast/easy/cheap and helps to prevent overzealous individuals from the tightening the bolt to the point of trying to squeeze the mast walls.
In any case, that bolt should be free to rotate, and the triangular plates/tangs that connect that bolt with the lowers should also be free to rotate on the bolt.
Done correctly the nut will just clear a hole for a cotter pin while still allowing the bolt a small bit of lateral travel, (perhaps a 1/16",) for the bolt to move back/forth in the holes/tube and still allow the plates/tangs free rotation.
Double plates/tangs that accept an eye terminal are better than single plates/tangs that accept a fork terminal.
Best is double plates/tangs accepting the eye end of a toggle, the fork end of the toggle accepting the eye on the rigging wire.
Yes, it puts a couple/three pounds aloft, so what, it's no big deal.
It allows articulation from mast bend or changing rake and allows articulation of the rigging without any "hard spots".