Any Updates on Synthetic Rigging ?

[roverhi]

Del, hopefully you won't be in Sunny Seattle forever. In most livable places in the world, you don't have to worry about mold growing faster than your beard.

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by roverhi

Del, hopefully you won't be in Sunny Seattle forever. In most livable places in the world, you don't have to worry about mold growing faster than your beard.

Heck! It's snowing today.

[foolishsailor]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

5) SSB Antenna. Just take a 50' length of AWG14 marine wire and waterproof the upper end and splice it into the core of the backstay. Lock it in place with a whipping at the top and let it exit the core just above deck level. Laugh yourself crazy about all the folk with expensive and not 100% secure insulators and their faces when they discover how you did this

ciao!
Nick.

Great stuff nick. I love the fact that it is single core braid, I have been splicing double braid on all my halyards and that is a pain...

Splicing a wire core to the back stay is sheer genius! Have you done this? I would have concerns with the termination point of the antenna wire at the top point as the thickness of the braid will change and would this be a point of chafe inside the core? Also where the antenna wire exites the braid near the deck since it is pushing braid out of shape and the braid is not pulling inline around the wire would this weaken the back stay?

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by foolishsailor

Great stuff nick. I love the fact that it is single core braid, I have been splicing double braid on all my halyards and that is a pain...

Splicing a wire core to the back stay is sheer genius! Have you done this? I would have concerns with the termination point of the antenna wire at the top point as the thickness of the braid will change and would this be a point of chafe inside the core? Also where the antenna wire exites the braid near the deck since it is pushing braid out of shape and the braid is not pulling inline around the wire would this weaken the back stay?

At the bottom no problem, but at the top yes. Strip the insulation and taper the conductor core. Then put a heatshrink around that and close the top with a tiny dot of silicone. When it is tapered it won't chafe the line.

A lot of people do this just to hoist a wire so that it is stronger. I just hoist an AWG10 in that case

ciao!
Nick.

[Shanaly]

fascinating thread! a few queries:
1 how to minimise chafe where the stays pass over the outer ends of the spreaders? a sheave-type arrangement?
2 how to have detachable standing rigging, so only some shrouds can be left in place while moored for long periods, and the detached sections can be stored out of the weather?

[Shanaly]

ps - just a spoiler:
3 ) how to build a lightning conductor since the wire shrouds will no longer be able to create a faraday cage .... ?

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Shanaly

fascinating thread! a few queries:
1 how to minimise chafe where the stays pass over the outer ends of the spreaders? a sheave-type arrangement?
2 how to have detachable standing rigging, so only some shrouds can be left in place while moored for long periods, and the detached sections can be stored out of the weather?

1) I answered in my previous numbered post here, incl. the pics.
2) What prevents you from taking away a synthetic shroud or stay? I find that much easier than steel wire.
3) I think it is more the mast that creates a cone of protection than the rigging creating a Faraday cage.

ciao!
Nick.

[Jmolan]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

1) I answered in my previous numbered post here, incl. the pics.
2) What prevents you from taking away a synthetic shroud or stay? I find that much easier than steel wire.
3) I think it is more the mast that creates a cone of protection than the rigging creating a Faraday cage.

ciao!
Nick.

Have not checked in for some time. Great to see the applications! One note, Dynex, is Amsteel, is Spectra. They are all made from the same stuff, and each rope co. Braids it and makes color of their own. You need not apply any radius ratio to use it. Do NOT use knots....when you get familiar with 12 strand hollow braid, you can throw an eye in this on no time....Brion Toss tells of a guy who died when a bolen slipped out of his chair hoist line.
I use Dynex for most every thing. Halyards, lifelines, soft shackles, heck.....i recently used 1/4" to tow my Suburban truck that was buried in the sand! The entire gallery was backing up fast thinking this is going to break and snap...... Not.....by the way it does not snap or spring, it has no stretch.
Dynex Dux is a very different animal. Treat it like wire. Don not bend it tighter than 5-1......if yo have some, you can see the strands will link on the inside of a too tight bend. 5-1 for static, 10-1 for rollers and blocks.
I have run. Bronze hanks with only a little fuzz to see. Rigged 100% 7 mm Dux and my headstay and staysail stay with 9mm.
Dropped at least 35lbs. Off the SS rig. Eliminated all steel shackles, have all halyards at 1/4" Dynex, lifelines 1/4" Dynex. Only wire left on the boat is the steering cable. Been too lazy to change it........:-)

[Jmolan]

One moe thing. I used small diameter braided hose seized to the Dux where it goes over the spreader.
We now use Dyneema sleeves as chaffing gear on our big trawlers in Alaska. Dyneema has been proven to be the best abrasion material available, It would make you cry to see how we abuse both Dux and Dymeema on these steel decked trawlers. Without getting dramatic, we can use anything in the world. And Dux and Dyneema has replaced every wire on our 125' trawler, even the mile long 1" main wires....:-$

[Jon Hacking]

We'd like to explore the possibility of replacing our six 3/8" rod diamonds with Dyneema Dux. What size Dux should we use? 3/8" rod probably has a breaking load of ~22K pounds (although I realize that one doesn't size Dux by breaking strength).

The 6 diamonds go over 2 sets of triangular spreaders (1 in front, 2 swept back) & are really just to keep the mast in column (the mast is 18m & raked a bit, but not bent). Each diamond stay is ~10m or 30'. We have no idea what the static (preload) tensions were but the rods were pretty tight.

Is Dux appropriate for this application?
How big would we have to go to get around significant creep?
Dead-eyes or turnbuckles? (we haven't touched the rods in 12 years)

Any help here appreciated! TIA

[SSI / NH]

Check out www.colligomarine.com most of what they do is synthetic rigging with Dux

[SSI / NH]

Home

[Doodles]

Originally Posted by Jon Hacking

We'd like to explore the possibility of replacing our six 3/8" rod diamonds with Dyneema Dux. What size Dux should we use? 3/8" rod probably has a breaking load of ~22K pounds (although I realize that one doesn't size Dux by breaking strength).

The 6 diamonds go over 2 sets of triangular spreaders (1 in front, 2 swept back) & are really just to keep the mast in column (the mast is 18m & raked a bit, but not bent). Each diamond stay is ~10m or 30'. We have no idea what the static (preload) tensions were but the rods were pretty tight.

Is Dux appropriate for this application?
How big would we have to go to get around significant creep?
Dead-eyes or turnbuckles? (we haven't touched the rods in 12 years)

Any help here appreciated! TIA

Jon, get in touch with John Franta at Colligo Marine (John Franta <jfranta@colligomarine.com>). This is their speciality. He also is a member here so hopefully he may chime in.

I'm also sending you a PM on another matter.

[Pblais]

We'd like to explore the possibility of replacing our six 3/8" rod diamonds with Dyneema Dux.

DUX is structurally more than plenty. It is not an arguable point. The only bad part of DUX is the labor. It takes a lot more hours to rig a boat and I don't feel that is arguable. If you hire it rigged you will spend a LOT to have it completed.

If you do it yourself you can have a much lighter rig. A lighter rig would always be nice if done well. From what I have seen Colligo has all the gear to do it right and the track record to brag about it. The DUX is almost free compared to evrything else.

[Jmolan]

Originally Posted by Pblais

DUX is structurally more than plenty. It is not an arguable point. The only bad part of DUX is the labor. It takes a lot more hours to rig a boat and I don't feel that is arguable. If you hire it rigged you will spend a LOT to have it completed.


If you do it yourself you can have a much lighter rig. A lighter rig would always be nice if done well. From what I have seen Colligo has all the gear to do it right and the track record to brag about it. The DUX is almost free compared to evrything else.

Paul, I wonder where you got the idea it takes a long time?
When you get familiar with the splice, you can make up a shroud/stay in very short time. I did my entire cutter rig (10 ropes) in less than a full day. That's 20 splices. I know I got faster as I went also.