Alternative backing plate materials

[unbusted67]

I don't like using aluminum because of its interaction with SS bolts, and sometimes marine plywood is too thick to get bolts through. Someone at the yard pointed out a product I liked the looks of. I think it's called d10? Anyone ever heard of this? It looks kind of like plexiglass. I think it is made from epoxy? Is there anything anyone else likes to use as an alternative to aluminum or plywood?

[Target9000]

Its called G10. Its extremely strong and will never rot. I love using it for backing plates. You can also use fiberglass boards as backing plates.

[neilpride]

Fiberglass,, i have dozen of bites and pieces any size and thicknes , the FG shop give to me for free when they cut the laminated pieces, or you can do it yourself, wax, Poly, and roller.. and a flat surface.. Cheers.

[unbusted67]

Originally Posted by Target9000

Its called G10. Its extremely strong and will never rot. I love using it for backing plates. You can also use fiberglass boards as backing plates.

That's the stuff! It's so strong a had a hard time cutting it! I think I will use this stuff on my current refit. Do you know if epoxy will grab it?

[Target9000]

Originally Posted by unbusted67

That's the stuff! It's so strong a had a hard time cutting it! I think I will use this stuff on my current refit. Do you know if epoxy will grab it?

Yes, epoxy will grab it hard. It is actually made of epoxy.

[kentobin]

Found at: Difference between fiberglass and G10?

G10 is simply a specification for a grade of fiberglass laminate composite made as commercial sheets, rods and tubes.

G10 FR4 laminate grades are produced by inserting continuous glass woven fabric impregnated with an epoxy resin binder while forming the sheet under high pressure. This material is used extensively in the electronics industry because its water absorption is extremely minimal and the G10 line of materials is not electrically conductive. The G10 FR4 is most commonly used in PCB (Printed Circuit Boards) applications. G10 exhibits superior mechanical and dimensional stability and doesn't shrink. Temperature ratings of 180 degrees C. In addition to these properties, G10/FR4 has excellent dielectric loss properties, and great electrical strength. The difference between Grades G10 and FR4 is that FR4 is a fire retardant grade of G10. FR4 (also known as Garolite) can be substituted where G10 is specified; G10 can never be substituted for FR4. G10 is also known as Micarta and Garolite and can be used for structural supports, buss bars, mechanical insulation, gears, test fixtures, washers, spacers and tight tolerance machined parts for electromechanical assemblies. http://www.jjorly.com/g10_fr4_sheets_fabricator.htm

Commercial laminates are denser than most of their home made composite equivalents because the commercial processes do a better job of minimizing the epoxy fraction in the laminate which adds weight but not strength to the composite.

Bob

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by unbusted67

That's the stuff! It's so strong a had a hard time cutting it! I think I will use this stuff on my current refit. Do you know if epoxy will grab it?

I used it throughout my rebuild for backing plates and under-supports for the windlass and arch. And by epoxying thinner layers together one can form it to radius under decks. Just sand the sides you plan to epoxy. I epoxy my backing plates to the under side, which becomes an actual part of the deck/hull.
I actually sandwiched my deck between multi-layers of G10 for the windlass.

.

[unbusted67]

Oh damn it. I wish I had thought of this. I just recored that area.