Refrigeration Problems

[rwidman]

A refrigeration pro should have a leak detector so if you suspect a leak and can't find it any other way, a call to the pro might be in order.

[Richard Kollmann]

I have four different electronic leak detectors with vacuum pumps inside that are of little value when looking for 1 to 2 ounces of refrigerant loss per year. The method of DIY leak detection I recommend on my web site will locate 1/2 ounce loss per year by breaking down surface tension at leak area with a brush.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by rwidman

A refrigeration pro should have a leak detector so if you suspect a leak and can't find it any other way, a call to the pro might be in order.

Various pros have said that looking for the slow leak is not cost-effective.

[Richard Kollmann]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

Various pros have said that looking for the slow leak is not cost-effective.

Only correct statement if failed water cooling system has let water mix with refrigerant. Yes, there are various pros from Hell out there. Evaporator replacement if you can not be accomplished as a DIY project might cost 50% of a new system.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Richard Kollmann

Only correct statement if failed water cooling system has let water mix with refrigerant. Yes, there are various pros from Hell out there. Evaporator replacement if you can not be accomplished as a DIY project might cost 50% of a new system.

OK, thanks again for all the excellent advice

Reefers now working perfectly; -20C in the freezer at half setting.

I've learned a lot from this, especially about watching the extent of frost to determine proper refrigerant content . I will look for the leak when the boat's on the hard in April. Meanwhile, I feel much more confident about refrigeration for my big cruise this summer

[Brewer40]

Dockhead et. al

We may be in a similar learning environment. We purchased a 2003 Farr 50PH in October in Didim Turkey. We had a limited trip there so were only able to shake down the boat on a 20 day cruise. After that we put her back on the hard in Didim with YachtWORKS...who have been working on multiple items prior to our return in late April to our "new" boat.

Our refrigeration is Isotherm. A 150Lt stand-alone Refer and separate top-load freezer...both are Magnum water (pumped) cooled systems. The prior owner records show multiple leaks, topping off/reducing Freon, changing at least on compressor, potential compressor damage, voltage controllers being replace, one +? pumps...etc. On our cruise the Freezer would only get cold although we did see some frost. The frig would get cold but is working very hard. Records indicate never having replaced any zincs. Work was done in multiple countries around the Med.

We want improved reliability, low need for imminent repairs and lower operating energy needs. My reading suggests we would like to switch out
to Frigoboat keel cooling...and improve the controls/thermostats to auto/manual speed control and digital t-stats.


The fridge...has the evaporator behind the stainless sidewalls. The freezer is believed to be similar behind the "plastic" walls

We are debating the costs/reliability of "cobbling" together parts or wholesale replacement of the systems.

The yard and some local US friends believe we can marry up new Friogoboat Keel Coolers to the DB 50s with little difficulty. After reading your post and Richards remarks maybe this is more doable tha
n I thought. Any readers opinion on this would be very welcome. Also, did you investigate what it would take...IF...you needed to change the evaporators out? Can this be done by removing the units?

Thank you for any comments...

S/V Sea Change

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Brewer40

Dockhead et. al

We may be in a similar learning environment. We purchased a 2003 Farr 50PH in October in Didim Turkey. We had a limited trip there so were only able to shake down the boat on a 20 day cruise. After that we put her back on the hard in Didim with YachtWORKS...who have been working on multiple items prior to our return in late April to our "new" boat.

Our refrigeration is Isotherm. A 150Lt stand-alone Refer and separate top-load freezer...both are Magnum water (pumped) cooled systems. The prior owner records show multiple leaks, topping off/reducing Freon, changing at least on compressor, potential compressor damage, voltage controllers being replace, one +? pumps...etc. On our cruise the Freezer would only get cold although we did see some frost. The frig would get cold but is working very hard. Records indicate never having replaced any zincs. Work was done in multiple countries around the Med.

We want improved reliability, low need for imminent repairs and lower operating energy needs. My reading suggests we would like to switch out
to Frigoboat keel cooling...and improve the controls/thermostats to auto/manual speed control and digital t-stats.


The fridge...has the evaporator behind the stainless sidewalls. The freezer is believed to be similar behind the "plastic" walls

We are debating the costs/reliability of "cobbling" together parts or wholesale replacement of the systems.

The yard and some local US friends believe we can marry up new Friogoboat Keel Coolers to the DB 50s with little difficulty. After reading your post and Richards remarks maybe this is more doable tha
n I thought. Any readers opinion on this would be very welcome. Also, did you investigate what it would take...IF...you needed to change the evaporators out? Can this be done by removing the units?

Thank you for any comments...

S/V Sea Change

Hi Sea Change,

I'm not a genuine fridge expert but before a total rebuild of the system in my '84 Pearson I did a LOT of research including reading opinions from several actual experts and a number of internet "experts", plus I bought the books, consulted with a friend that's a certified AC and fridge tech and read several years of threads and discussions on this and several other forums.

So I can report what I did based on the above and the results in my first year of use.

First I went with the Frigoboat and have been very satisfied with that choice. I don't say it's the only good choice but seemed to have a good combination of quality, price, support, options, etc for my requirements.

I went with a straight air cooled model based on the BD50 for several reasons and it has worked out fine. I have a fairly large box, over 9 cu ft total including almost 2 cu ft of freezer section. Mid summer in FL, daytime highs approaching 100, lows high seventies I was using around 50-60 amp hours per day max. When I was on the boat to open the hatches and let it cool down inside it dropped to around 50 or less. Until I added more insulation around the freezer I was freezing stuff in the bottom of the fridge section so it was plenty cold in the box. I did completely rip out the old box and rebuild the whole thing with a lot more insulation which certainly helped. In cooler weather the power draw has been half that.

I considered the keel cooler but rejected it because it was more expensive, didn't seem to be necessary and I was concerned about corrosion on the keel cooler fittings. If the section exposed to salt water leaks due to damage or leaks or whatever you will get salt water into the system and according to the experts it will not be repairable and you will be buying a new system. That to me was a big downside. I understand the keel cooler system is quieter but I don't think significantly more efficient than the air cooled if at all. Some claim that you will pick up less heat in the boat with the keel cooled version (all the heat goes into the water and not the cabin air) but I didn't notice any difference with or without the fridge running. I measured the temp change over a couple of days in the area under the floor where the compressor is installed and even closed off the ventilation to see if that made any difference. Worst case I only saw a couple of degrees difference in a space of 5-6 cu ft.

So from me, one solid vote for a Frigoboat air cooled system.