Leaking Hose Connections

[islander20]

I just finished stripping my old toilets pump and replacing it with a new Whale pump. Feeling quite pleased with myself until I notice that 3 of the 4 hose connections were dripping. F*ck! The hoses are making some pretty sharp turns and I'm assuming this is creating a void for water to leak out. Two of the leaks a from the whale pump which was surprisingly easy to get the hoses onto. The other is from the connection to the brass seacock.

To answer the easy questions yes the tubing is the right size and the hose clamps are on, very tightly. I'm thinking about using Teflon tape to seal the connections...or maybe a silicon type product? Just want to make sure that I will be able to remove the pipe when the time comes for that. Any good products I could use to fix this?

Thanks

[svWindfall]

double hose clamps (good hose clamps, not the cheapies!)

[delmarrey]

Are they non-barbed end fittings with the regular PVC septic hose?

If so, that's the problem. The hoses should be a bit hard to get on. One usually has to warm the hose ends in hot water or w/a heat gun. The inside of the PVC hoses has a little bit of a grove, which water can seep out thru if not real tight.

[sailvayu]

Use a little silicone sealant spread on the fitting, not inside the hose. Heat the hose a bit with a heat gun to help it compress and tighten the clamps while the hose is still warm. double clamps will not hurt either.

[glenn.225]

Please don't use teflon tape, it often causes more problems than it solves. For screw together fittings use pipe dope(plumbers) it's far superior. For barb fittings you can use a small amount of silicone (usage depend, only use highest quality 100% silicone not the latex caulking verities). And two high quality SS clamps per fitting, 180 degrees apart and in opposite directions if possible. This should solve most leaks before they start.

[islander20]

Thanks for all the quick replies, I will try out the double hose clamps. I really don't want to have to remove the tubing, that stuff is awful to work with. I purchased the cheaper of the two hose clamps a west marine, it is stainless. Guess I should try the pricey ones? The brass seacock is barbed while the whale pump has smooth ports. I was worried about it but whale made no mention of any extra steps needed. If the double clamps fail I will throw some silicone on.

[casual]

I,just went thru the same sitituation after replacing all of my freshwater hose.Problem was I,used the good hose clamps,and normal torque applied was not enough went thru them again with a socket and 1/4 inch drive rachet .It worked no more leaks.

[DeepFrz]

What model number is your whale pump?

[peghall]

I would look to your sharp turns...hoses that are pulling off to one side or the other at an angle are the best way I know to make a hose connection leak. So are over-tightened hose clamps, 'cuz they cause hoses to pucker and leak. So ease the strain, solve the problem.

However, a little teflon tape too wouldn't hurt.

[islander20]

Not sure of the pump number, it is this model

http://www.whalepumps.com/marine/pro...ck-Waste-pumps

[phantomracer]

I trust only all stainless steel clamps - I believe the cheaper WM clamps have a steel screw but SS band. Get the ABA clamps from WM or AWAB from defender (I use the AWAB) Both have no preferations. get the clamp tool - a lot easier than a screw driver! These clamps give a better 360 degree clamping force. Are 316 SS (not 300 or other inferior grades)

I think I spent $150 on clamps when I redid the hoses on my boat! Well worth the cost for not sinking my boat!

yes, double clamp! Also, if possible, have the screws 180 degrees of each other on the hose.

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by peghall

I would look to your sharp turns...hoses that are pulling off to one side or the other at an angle are the best way I know to make a hose connection leak. So are over-tightened hose clamps, 'cuz they cause hoses to pucker and leak. So ease the strain, solve the problem.

However, a little teflon tape too wouldn't hurt.

yup dont kill the clamps!

[rivonia]

Originally Posted by phantomracer

I trust only all stainless steel clamps - I believe the cheaper WM clamps have a steel screw but SS band. Get the ABA clamps from WM or AWAB from defender (I use the AWAB) Both have no preferations. get the clamp tool - a lot easier than a screw driver! These clamps give a better 360 degree clamping force. Are 316 SS (not 300 or other inferior grades)

I think I spent $150 on clamps when I redid the hoses on my boat! Well worth the cost for not sinking my boat!

yes, double clamp! Also, if possible, have the screws 180 degrees of each other on the hose.

Just out of curiosity. Why 180 degrees from each other. ??

Peter

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by rivonia

Just out of curiosity. Why 180 degrees from each other. ??

Peter

just in case the clamping force is not equal. The better clamps it is less of an issue, as they are pre-curved. Unscrew a ABA or AWAB, and it won't spring out like cheaper clamps. Also the non-preforated clamps will have less chance of cutting into the hose itself.

Probabaly not needed to do it 180 degrees of each other, but a good practice to get into. no downside. Plus it looks more professional, and a pro/surveyor will recognize the effort.

clamping 180 degrees of each other, it is probably like the myth of not putting a battery on concrete or it will quickly discharge. Probably does nothing. But there is no downside to doing it.

I am just so paranoid about sinking the boat over a $5 clamp. If I thought having a priest bless the clamps would help, I would do it!!

[Dennis.G]

Originally Posted by phantomracer

I trust only all stainless steel clamps - I believe the cheaper WM clamps have a steel screw but SS band.

Maybe in past, but I am sure that currently even the cheaper WM clamps are all SS. Just don't get clamps from Harbor Freight!