Hydronic air lock won't bleed out?

[Caddy Shack]

Hi all. I have a Bavaria 36 with an Eberspacher diesel heater D5WSC. The unit itself is new, the rest of the system is not.

I believe I have an air lock somewhere in the system. I have tried to get rid of the air by opening the bleed screw on the heater but have not been successful. I am hoping someone can provide a tip or suggestion.....

Is it possible to pressurize the system to " help " purge the air out, and if so, how do I that?

It has worked intermittently with proper coolant flow and heat produced, but is not now.

Thanks!

[akexpress]

Your system likely has other bleed screws elsewhere in the system. Ours has them at each register and a few others. It can be very frustrating to bleed the system especially if you weren't involved in the install. I argued with a service tech while in Alaska as I was sure I needed a new circulation pump but he told me he would be happy to sell me the $800 dollar pump but I would still have air in the system so I took his advice and found a bleed screw I did not know existed. Trace all the hoses and you will likely find other bleed points. It may take a few times to get all the air out.

[GordMay]

Air Elimination from Hydronic Heating Systems
➥ https://www.tacocomfort.com/wp-conte...stems_2015.pdf

[Lepke]

I've seen several systems with no bleed screws. In that case you have to loosen the connection at the radiator to bleed. The pump should have enough flow to push thru the air. Make sure you have no loops in your plumbing that create a point for air to collect. In a professionally installed system there is a bleed at each radiator and anywhere air might collect.
If you have chronic air problems an air eliminator with bleed air as it passes.

[wrwakefield]

Bleeding air from hydronic loops can be quite a chore as the top of each loop is not always conveniently accessible.

To make this easy, we use small, float style [NOT Schrader valve style; e.g., use the Watts FV-4M1 1/8] automatic air bleeders used in home boiler heating systems. [Cheap at ~US$10-15/each. Sometimes found in the box stores...]

Typically we install a T at the top [high point] of each hydronic core and install the bleeder on top of a small ball valve [to isolate the bleeder when not needed, and for maintenance... i.e., Where the coolant return line to the engine exits the core.] Basically, air bleeders need to be installed at a high point in each coolant loop.

We also installed air bleeders on our water and bus heaters. They eliminate manual bleeding- even when first commissioning a hydronic system, and anytime the engine coolant is changed...

In case this is useful.

Cheers, Bill

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by wrwakefield

Bleeding air from hydronic loops can be quite a chore as the top of each loop is not always conveniently accessible.

To make this easy, we use small, float style [NOT Schrader valve style; e.g., use the Watts FV-4M1 1/8] automatic air bleeders used in home boiler heating systems. [Cheap at ~US$10-15/each. Sometimes found in the box stores...]

Typically we install a T at the top [high point] of each hydronic core and install the bleeder on top of a small ball valve [to isolate the bleeder when not needed, and for maintenance... i.e., Where the coolant return line to the engine exits the core.] Basically, air bleeders need to be installed at a high point in each coolant loop.

We also installed air bleeders on our water and bus heaters. They eliminate manual bleeding- even when first commissioning a hydronic system, and anytime the engine coolant is changed...

In case this is useful.

Cheers, Bill

Indeed.