All good info, though when referring to a center bolt holding the split coupler in place I literally mean in the center of the back of the shaft (not the side of the shaft like a set screw would be). The bolt is 'inside' the back of the coupler, and cannot be viewed unless taken off the transmission
and stuck a mirror in there to look. If I do go with a split coupler again, I'm thinking of having it powder coated this time to help protect against rust (even if it was stainless). Perhaps this may help it's removal
in the future.
Should shafts have keyways that are opposite each other? For instance, the keyway holding the propeller
in place would be on the opposite side of where the keyway is for the split coupler for a better spinning balance?
Yes, I'm Florida
, so SAE looks like the route
to go. I'm having a damn hard time finding any fiberglass
stern tubes (only G10, which have very limited sizes). I did find a fiberglass
stern tube dealer in NZ (Chatfield marine
), though just wish I could find something a bit closer. And as for a stern tube bearings it's a toss between Thordon or Vesconite...still figuring that out.
I did decide upon the Lasdrop Gen 2 for a shaft seal
When you say the stern tube must have at least 1/4" clearance on each side...are you referring to the inside of the tube (space not occupied by stern tube bearings)?
Looked at Pythondrives. Their site seemed very vague, but the product looks well made. Do they also require a structural wall built like aqua drives? That wall was what nixed aqua drive systems for me unfortunately, engine
compartments are too crammed as it is.
My shaft is only 45", though thinking of going with 1-1/4" diameter or else I gotta start looking for a new prop as well. At least I can have the current
30mm prop machined wider, but not smaller for a 1-1/8" diameter. Think this size shaft is getting too hefty for that 3JH2E? Or doesn't matter?
So many questions.....