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Old 11-10-2009, 17:07   #31
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When I need to use my deck lights off-shore, I'm not concerned about night vision. My boat originally use aircraft landing light bulbs that were allways blowing out. I replaced them with sealed beam off-road truck lights that are much more reliable but not cheap.
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Old 25-10-2009, 11:09   #32
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It's been my experience that if you need to go up on deck at night, it's because there's a problem. Given that, it's my choice to have all the light I can get while working on deck. It's just a safety thing with me.

Keep in mind that the deck lights will make your boat more visible to all other craft in the area,, also a safety consideration.

Your question regarding losing your night vision is well taken. My solution is that the wife is at the helm while I'm on deck. She shields her eyes, wears sunglasses, looks away, etc in order to protect her vision.

Were I alone, I think I would still prefer the white lights on. Seems to me to be better to lose your night vision for a few minutes rather than take a chance on an injury due to poor visibility.

In the end,, your boat, your call.

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Old 25-10-2009, 13:11   #33
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Same here - the light is there to use it, not to preserve the night vision. And strong spreader lights do add safety - when not sure if "they' can see me I switch all my deck lights for a couple of moments every couple of minutes. Have not had any night vision problems ever (so I like to think).

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Old 25-10-2009, 16:34   #34
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We just use night vision. Our deck lights are never used. Sometimes I will use a little pencil torch to see the top wind vane.
When theres a problem on deck or a sail change theres plenty of light or we do it blind. Practise makes perfect.

Start by tying bowlines blindfolded, then behind your back..... Leave ALL torches below... truly it works
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Old 25-10-2009, 17:56   #35
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MarkJ: If you use a masthead tricolor nav light, simply parallel into the power wire and use it to power an LED array at the base of the Windex. Little power lost, great advantage in seeing the apparent wind anytime at night without the torch.
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Old 25-10-2009, 18:49   #36
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MarkJ: If you use a masthead tricolor nav light, simply parallel into the power wire and use it to power an LED array at the base of the Windex. Little power lost, great advantage in seeing the apparent wind anytime at night without the torch.
good idea. Thanks for that. Mooring light could do it too.... when I change it to a led
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Old 25-10-2009, 20:18   #37
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How many watts is a typical spreader light? I have seen combination steaming/deck lights that are only 20 watts? seema a little too little to light up an area on the deck.
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Old 26-10-2009, 09:22   #38
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MarkJ: If you want to run the LED array off either the masthead running light OR the anchor light, you will need to use a separate LED or use a DPDT switch, otherwise the two lights will be on simultaneously. I made this mistake, originally. I use the DPDT switch to operate my running lights. The double throw allows masthead LED for the SAIL function or the deck navigation lights (plus steaming light) for the POWER mode. The double pole allows me to power the compass light in either mode and still separate the power supply from the other running light mode. It works really nice. I have my anchor light separate. On a customer's boat, using the OGM LED tricolor, anchor, strobe unit, I use a single DPDT switch to select either SAIL or POWER mode with compass light, a separate anchor light switch (SPST), and a DPST switch for the Strobe light mode (on the OGM, if you apply voltage to BOTH the running light and anchor light, it goes into strobe mode). The variety of switches allows you to keep voltage sources separate.

Solitude: The Forespar ML-2 foredeck light (which I just installed on a Hunter 34) uses a 20 watt halogen bulb. It's just enough to see by, without causing blindness. You can go up in brightness with the AquaSignal, up higher still with spreader lights (each at about 35-55 watts, depending on your needs) or you can go hogwild with 35 watt High Intensity Discharge deck lights that allow brain surgery on the foredeck (2 1/2 times the lumens of conventional bulbs, 30% less juice required, many times more $$).
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Old 26-10-2009, 20:13   #39
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go hogwild with 35 watt High Intensity Discharge deck lights that allow brain surgery on the foredeck (2 1/2 times the lumens of conventional bulbs, 30% less juice required, many times more $$).
Roy,
Do you have a model # for us wanabe Surgeons?

Thanks,
Extemp.
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Old 27-10-2009, 07:37   #40
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Extemp, the company I had been purchasing from has disappeared. Here is another source: New Boat Lights - yacht lights - marine lights - www.MagnaLight.com Spotlights and Flashlights
Here is one that looks pretty promising: http://www.magnalight.com/pc-1344-11...125-x-125.aspx
The key, besides outright lighting power, is efficiency, measured as lumens per watt. The HID lights reportedly produce about 100 lumens per watt. See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminous_efficacy for what this means. See: http://www.mge.com/home/appliances/l...comparison.htm for a comparison chart among different bulb types.

I think that the bottom line for this particular thread is probably: How bright can I make it? OR How bright can I afford it (financially or amp-hour consumption)? I hope this helps.

My personal choice (after I pull the mast down for service) will be an AquaSignal foredeck/steaming light combo, separately switched HID lamps below each lower spreader, and a third facing aft from the stern antenna rail. I also have a small, conventional 55 watt lamp under the pulpit rail to assist in removing kelp when retrieving the anchor. All but the kelp lamp are controlled from the cockpit. The HID lamps will also be hooked to a relay switch at my bunk to make daylight when I hear something go bump in the night.
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Old 27-10-2009, 16:31   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy M View Post
Extemp, the company I had been purchasing from has disappeared. Here is another source: New Boat Lights - yacht lights - marine lights - www.MagnaLight.com Spotlights and Flashlights
Here is one that looks pretty promising: HID Boat Light - 35 Watt High Intensity Discharge - Flood Pattern - 125' X 125' - www.MagnaLight.com Spotlights and Flashlights
The key, besides outright lighting power, is efficiency, measured as lumens per watt. The HID lights reportedly produce about 100 lumens per watt. See: Luminous efficacy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia for what this means. See: Lighting Efficiency Comparison for a comparison chart among different bulb types.

I think that the bottom line for this particular thread is probably: How bright can I make it? OR How bright can I afford it (financially or amp-hour consumption)? I hope this helps.

My personal choice (after I pull the mast down for service) will be an AquaSignal foredeck/steaming light combo, separately switched HID lamps below each lower spreader, and a third facing aft from the stern antenna rail. I also have a small, conventional 55 watt lamp under the pulpit rail to assist in removing kelp when retrieving the anchor. All but the kelp lamp are controlled from the cockpit. The HID lamps will also be hooked to a relay switch at my bunk to make daylight when I hear something go bump in the night.
Thanks Roy,
I'll check it out (after I go unwrap my new toy) .

Regards,
Extemp.
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