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View Poll Results: What type of underfouling paint do you use?
Hard 9 45.00%
Soft, ablative 10 50.00%
House paint 0 0%
Other 1 5.00%
Voters: 20. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 24-04-2006, 02:46   #16
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Jack:
Thanks for noticing my error, regarding drying out durations. I stated the case exactly backwards.

In fact:

Exposure to air does NOT generally harm “Ablative” anti-foulings. Out of water, their surface goes inert, but is renewed upon re-launch.

On the other hand, long-term exposure to air generally causes oxidization of the outer copper layer of “Hard” anti-foulings, rendering them ineffective. Manufacturers generally recommend re-launching Hard anti-foulings within a specified time of painting (24 Hrs to 60 days).

For Example:
Pettit “Trinidad SR” (Hard) has a maximum re-launch duration of 60 days.
International “Micron Extra” (Ablative) has a maximum re-launch duration of 1 year.

Apologetically,
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Old 24-04-2006, 02:46   #17
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Jack:
Thanks for noticing my error, regarding drying out durations. I stated the case exactly backwards.

In fact:

Exposure to air does NOT generally harm “Ablative” anti-foulings. Out of water, their surface goes inert, but is renewed upon re-launch.

On the other hand, long-term exposure to air generally causes oxidization of the outer copper layer of “Hard” anti-foulings, rendering them ineffective. Manufacturers generally recommend re-launching Hard anti-foulings within a specified time of painting (24 Hrs to 60 days).

For Example:
Pettit “Trinidad SR” (Hard) has a maximum re-launch duration of 60 days.
International “Micron Extra” (Ablative) has a maximum re-launch duration of 1 year.

Apologetically,
Gord
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Old 24-04-2006, 02:54   #18
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Now the Photo gallery is back in action,

here is the promised picture of the mobo with the sheets of copper applied:

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Old 24-04-2006, 06:11   #19
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You can go to www.seagypsywoman.blogspot.com to see photos of Eidos after nearly three years (32 months) of Micron Extra (more photos on Flickr and the link is at the bottom of the blog). I cleaned her off once (in water) after a year and she spent six months on a river (last winter). Sorry, I can´t post the photos here. I´m still tempted to use hard paint now, but like someone else said, you have to watch for compatibility problems. I´m hoping that most of the ablative paint is gone, so that shouldn´t be a problem? Another question: Doesn´t the boat have to be moving a lot for the ablative paint to work? What happens if I´m at anchor or in a marina for months at a time?
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Old 24-04-2006, 07:32   #20
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ablative paint does need movement, however, it seems that if you have not moved the boat for a while with TEAMAC A/F, the first trip will wash the crud off. I have been afloat now for 12 months, and only put a single coat on, and am keeping going to see how long it will last.
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Old 24-04-2006, 08:38   #21
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antifouling

Practical Sailor reported on extensive testing of antifouling paints in their March 1 issue. They did a series of tests in Florida and a second series in the Connecticut area. As expected results were different for different waters. It was interesting to note that there was no direct relationship between copper content and performance - the higher copper content paints did not always translate into better results.

You can buy the report from their web site www.practical-sailor.com - and no I do not work for them (:-))
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Old 24-04-2006, 13:03   #22
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Wow Talbot, I must say, that that was NOT what I expected to see. That looks like it was sprayed on. A beautiful job. I am surprised it came off when applied so well.
Mate, I bet that hurt the pocket.
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Old 24-04-2006, 14:04   #23
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Wheels

This photo shows a bit better detail of the individual sheets - it came on a reel abt 4" wide, and we cut it up into abt 18" sheets to make getting around the bends a bit easier. Each leading edge was hidden by the preceeding trailing edge on two sides (hence slight bumps) in order to protect the bond as much as possible. Cost - you dont want to ask, especially as it included two lifts of the boat (putting it on, and changing it for normal A/F). - all on a 23metre boat (not mine, I just helped with the work)

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Old 24-04-2006, 15:13   #24
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Hey Talbot.

I like how they did that.

I bet that is very, very expensive to install under the hull like that?
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Old 24-04-2006, 15:38   #25
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My goodness! Looks almost gold leaf -- and probably about the same price!

In all seriousness, though, does anyone know about ePaint? www.epaint.net

They are using a nontoxic process that releases small quantities of hydrogen peroxide when in water that the little critters don't like, but is otherwise harmless to the environment. They say that the Coast Guard has adopted their paint.

Anybody tried it?

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Old 24-04-2006, 16:13   #26
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No ID.

I never heard of that brand of paint before.

But I'll keep that on my list of possible paints??
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Old 25-04-2006, 03:14   #27
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Captain K - all done with our own hands! We had to have an interim lift to change where the vessel was propped up. And agree, she looked lovely, which is why it was such a shame that this process didnt work on this boat.
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Old 25-04-2006, 04:45   #28
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Epaint “EP-ZO”

Although Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) is a well known oxidizing* biocide & disinfectant, which is non-persistent**, it does require a fairly substantial dosage*** to be effective.

I wonder what concentrations of H2O2 the ePaint produces, and how well it would work in moving water, where it would be rapidly removed from hull contact?

* The oxidation potential of hydrogen peroxide (1.8) is just below that of ozone (2.1), and higher than chlorine (1.4).
** Rapidly beaks down in the presence of sunlight (photolysis) to water & oxygen, hence has little residual efficacy.
*** Dosage rates of 10%/volume (2-3 hours exposure time), or > 30% for contact
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Old 25-04-2006, 09:32   #29
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From the ePaint website:


Why use E paint?


E Paint is a proven effective antifouling system for steel, aluminum, fiberglass, and wood. E Paint does not contain heavy metals. This not only makes E Paint an environmentally safer alternative to copper paint, but also makes E paint an acceptable choice for all underwater hardware and outdrives because it will not promote electrolysis.
E Paint also remains the choice for reputable agencies such as: the USCG, NAVY, USACE, N.P.S., E.P.A. and N.O.A.A.


On A Greener Note: Here at E Paint Company we have taken a differrent approach to biofouling control by creating and utillizing cutting edge formulas that are not only safer for the environment but very effective.
This being In contrast to the multibillion dollar paint companies of this world who instead of using their money to reasearch environmentaly safer coatings, just fill cans with the same outdated poisons they have been using for hundreds of years, put a pretty label on it, and call it "Cutting Edge"

All of that sounds interesting (but they could use some spell-checking), and they even use it on high speed craft, so I guess they figured out a way to make it work. I would very much like to have a product that both protect the hull and be environmentally friendly.

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Old 25-04-2006, 11:10   #30
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Seagypsywoman-
"Doesn´t the boat have to be moving a lot for the ablative paint to work? What happens if I´m at anchor or in a marina for months at a time?"
Remember, it doesn't matter if the BOAT is moving, or the WATER is moving (river flow). Ablative paints will work as long as there is relative motion between the boat and the water. That's one of the factors that make it hard to compare paints, i.e. if you are moored in a good current, the ablative will work better. If you are moored in still waters with just tidal lift...things change.
After seeing mixed results from "copperpoxy", Micron Ultra, and some other things, I've been heard to mutter about putting a bag under the boat and pouring Chlorox in before we step onto the launch. I'm just not sure what long-term exposure to Chlorox will do to fiberglass.<G>
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