Strip Planking vs. Carvel Planking vs. Lapstrake

[BigBonesBotta]

Carvel planking, Strip Planking, or Lapstrake?

Certainly Lapstrake is the most beautiful, but what what is the most reliable? Easiest to maintain? The toughest?

[minaret]

Originally Posted by BigBonesBotta

Carvel planking, Strip Planking, or Lapstrake?

Certainly Lapstrake is the most beautiful, but what what is the most reliable? Easiest to maintain? The toughest?

Strip plank/cold mold/diagonal is easiest to maintain, then carvel, then lap or batten seam. The latter are strictly for smaller/lighter boats. Heavy carvel with sacrificial wormwood, etc, probably "toughest", though we can define that any number of ways.

[Panope]

I know you did not ask about repairability, but replacing a damaged plank on a stripped plank hull is far more dificult than on a carvel planked boat.

Steve

[BigBonesBotta]

Originally Posted by Panope

I know you did not ask about repairability, but replacing a damaged plank on a stripped plank hull is far more dificult than on a carvel planked boat.

Steve

I'd Imagine so. Any information is pretty much what I'm after. I've seen a lot of hybrid hulls, too. Lapstrake above the water line and carvel below or vice-versa.

[Krogensailor]

Don't forget about composite hulls. Usually western red ceder strip planked with uni-bi-and/or tri axial glass and epoxy resin. Personally I don't think there is a better method to build any kind or size of boat.

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by Krogensailor

Don't forget about composite hulls. Usually western red ceder strip planked with uni-bi-and/or tri axial glass and epoxy resin. Personally I don't think there is a better method to build any kind or size of boat.

True words!

Ours is now 23+ years old, over 100K miles, hull is as new: stiff, fair, no hard spots, no worms, no rot, no blisters, light weight.

Never thought I would own a timber boat, but after nearly 11 years of ownership, I'm still in love with her and her construction.

I'm unable to comment on repair, but do not see that it would be all that hard. Actually similar to FRP repair, I suspect. Perhaps Minaret would comment on that aspect?

Cheers,

Jim

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

True words!

Ours is now 23+ years old, over 100K miles, hull is as new: stiff, fair, no hard spots, no worms, no rot, no blisters, light weight.

Never thought I would own a timber boat, but after nearly 11 years of ownership, I'm still in love with her and her construction.

I'm unable to comment on repair, but do not see that it would be all that hard. Actually similar to FRP repair, I suspect. Perhaps Minaret would comment on that aspect?

Cheers,

Jim

Agree with what you guys are saying, cold molded is pretty ideal. It's how we built Cascadia. However, a proper pro repair is something of a nightmare. It is also a repair that is beyond the skill set of your average shade tree boat repair person. Your glass boat can probably be fixed semi competently almost anywhere, this is slightly less true of carvel. Least true of cold molded or diagonal planked.