Rudder Bearings:Pearson 34-II

[rognvald]

Has anyone replaced the rudder bearings on a Pearson 34-II. Are they dedicated bearings at the top and bottom or is the bearing created by the surface area of the rudder tube? Thanks, Ron

[rognvald]

Originally Posted by rognvald

Has anyone replaced the rudder bearings on a Pearson 34-II. Are they dedicated bearings at the top and bottom or is the bearing created by the surface area of the rudder tube? Thanks, Ron

For anyone interested in this topic, there are two dedicated bearings in the bottom rudder tube and one upper bearing that is located under the helm seat in the floor. I used two split shaft collars to hold the top bearing(epoxied) and lower bearings(free floating) in place. If anyone needs detailed information, I will gladly provide help as I completely rebuilt my steering system/rudder over last Winter and found a few unexpected surprises. Good luck and good sailing.

[HappyMdRSailor]

So sad the 3 year post with no replies but your own... And you have so much to offer too...

I'll be your RUDDERBUDDY!

[Neo]

We have a 1987 Pearson 31-2. The design is very similar to the 34-2. I'll keep you in mind next time something breaks.

[daverubin]

Originally Posted by rognvald

For anyone interested in this topic, there are two dedicated bearings in the bottom rudder tube and one upper bearing that is located under the helm seat in the floor. I used two split shaft collars to hold the top bearing(epoxied) and lower bearings(free floating) in place. If anyone needs detailed information, I will gladly provide help as I completely rebuilt my steering system/rudder over last Winter and found a few unexpected surprises. Good luck and good sailing.

Hi,
I would love some more info... I have a Pearson 33-2 (1986) and I assume it will be similar or the same as the 34-2. I have play in the rudder shaft (top and bottom) so I think I need to replace the bearings. I just emailed d & r Marine because I thought they sold replacements, but that might be for the older 33. Not sure. Anyway, I have a few questions:
- Did you replace the bearings (and if so, with what?)
- What was the purpose of the split shaft collars you mention.. I am just confused about what you mean about holding the bearings in place... Did you attach the collars to the shaft above/below the bearings (just above/below the tube)? Or am I missing the point completely?

I haven't dropped my rudder yet, so am not really sure what is going on in there.

Thanks,
Dave

[rognvald]

Originally Posted by daverubin

Hi,
I would love some more info... I have a Pearson 33-2 (1986) and I assume it will be similar or the same as the 34-2. I have play in the rudder shaft (top and bottom) so I think I need to replace the bearings. I just emailed d & r Marine because I thought they sold replacements, but that might be for the older 33. Not sure. Anyway, I have a few questions:
- Did you replace the bearings (and if so, with what?)
- What was the purpose of the split shaft collars you mention.. I am just confused about what you mean about holding the bearings in place... Did you attach the collars to the shaft above/below the bearings (just above/below the tube)? Or am I missing the point completely?

I haven't dropped my rudder yet, so am not really sure what is going on in there.

Thanks,
Dave

Dave,
When I dropped my rudder, there was considerable play(about 1/4" approx.). There are two areas for bearings on my Pearson-- two floating bearings at the bottom of the shaft in the rudder tube and one fixed bearing at the top of the rudder shaft that is located under the helm seat in the center of the raised platform/floor. The upper bearing(which was glued in place) dislodged and fell onto the top of the steering quadrant. Fortunately, I did not have to replace the bearings since when I re-installed the upper bearing the tolerances were perfect and there was no play. The only wear I saw on the upper bearing is where the face of the bearing was scarred when it dislodged from the bearing housing. I still cannot conceive how this happened since the boat has never been grounded nor has the rudder been hit. The purpose of the shaft collars are twofold: 1.) to prevent the rudder from falling out of the boat if the quadrant wire broke and prevent the lower bearings from rising in the tube and 2.) to prevent the upper bearing from falling out as it previously had done. If you have any questions, I will be glad to walk you through the project with information and suppliers and I believe I have some photos as well. This is a Winter project and has the potential to be very time consuming if you want a good job. There is also another problem: access to the stern was through my starboard lazarette and from my port quarterberth. If you are a normal to large sized man, you will have great difficulty(impossible) getting access to that area. I had to pay a small person(5'5"/140 lbs) to do the grunt work under my direction since the lazarette was too small and narrow for me. This is not a difficult job for those with moderate mechanical skills, but you cannot be rushed. I hope this helps. Let me know. Good luck and good sailing.

[daverubin]

Thanks- That is helpful and informative. If you have pictures that could be great too. It sounds like there are some differences between our boats, but probably some similarities as well. Here are some pictures of my boat:

Rear of quarter berth, looking up at quadrant:


Looking down at quadrant and top of rudder post:


Closeup of where the rudder post exits the tube (looking down through the quadrant):


That last one really makes it look like that plastic sleeve or bushing (if that is what it is) has wiggled up out of position, but I can't budge it now. I am going to work with my marina on this project so I'll have help when I need it, and can save some money vs having them do the whole thing.

I'll post more here as it goes. I think we have to get the boat on taller stands, which is going to have to wait for my neighbors boats to be launched. In the meantime I will be replacing my fuel tank which dumped its contents in my bilge over the winter.
Dave

[daverubin]

I messed up the urls for the images, but I don't see how to edit my post, so here they are:

Rear of quarter berth, looking up at quadrant:


Looking down at quadrant and top of rudder post:


Closeup of where the rudder post exits the tube (looking down through the quadrant):

[rognvald]

Originally Posted by daverubin

Thanks- That is helpful and informative. If you have pictures that could be great too. It sounds like there are some differences between our boats, but probably some similarities as well. Here are some pictures of my boat:

Rear of quarter berth, looking up at quadrant:


Looking down at quadrant and top of rudder post:


Closeup of where the rudder post exits the tube (looking down through the quadrant):


That last one really makes it look like that plastic sleeve or bushing (if that is what it is) has wiggled up out of position, but I can't budge it now. I am going to work with my marina on this project so I'll have help when I need it, and can save some money vs having them do the whole thing.

I'll post more here as it goes. I think we have to get the boat on taller stands, which is going to have to wait for my neighbors boats to be launched. In the meantime I will be replacing my fuel tank which dumped its contents in my bilge over the winter.
Dave

Dave,
You rudder configuration is different from mine but your system is quite clear from your pix. The first thing you'll have to do is pull your rudder. You do not need taller jackstands. Have the marina lift your boat with the Travelift and pull the rudder. When you're finished, do the same. Do you have a shaft collar under the quadrant? If so, this needs to be inspected when it's removed. I have a good source for these. Also, when you disassemble your quadrant, check for galvanic corrosion since your shaft is probably SS and your quadrant is anodized aluminum. I had significant destruction in the inner collar face and bolt hole. I replaced it with a new quadrant. This has to be machined for an exact tolerance to match the OD of the shaft. This was done by Edson and they were quite helpful in the process. Also, if you replace the shaft collar it will have to be machined. This was done at a local shop. Finally it will be important to inspect your shaft housing for any abnormalities from the top and bottom. It appears that the upper bearing was epoxied into the housing/tube and might have dislodged from torsional stress. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have a problem. Rognvald

[fred4936]

This is a really old thread, but I am doing the same thing in the same boat. Any info would be greatly appreciated, especially concerning getting the collar off! Thanks!