Protective Wear 4 Composite Work

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by minaret

Totally!

Nah, just having lunch and on the phone.

Man, your mistress must have had you really distracted. Given your scattered thought processes.
And likely you know this, but many on CF don't. Anyone can edit their own posts for up to 1/2hr after it's initially put up.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by HopCar

The talk of using compressed air to cool you while in a tyvek suit reminded me of the time I watched a guy sandblasting a wall in the Florida summer noon sun. I asked him how he could stand it. He showed me some thing called a vortex cooler. It's a tube with no moving parts. You put compressed air into the side of the tube and hot air comes out one end and very cold air out the other. It is kind of like magic. They also use vortex coolers to cool metal when you are machining it.

Cold Air Guns Products - Vortex Air



Have any of you guys used a vortex cooler?

Yes, and there is a model sold that emits such hot sir that it can heat shrink tubing, just the ticket if there is an explosive atmosphere.
The AH-64a model helicopters environmental control system ran off of nothing but compressed air, really good air conditioner and would spit little pierces of ice at you in humid environments.
Didn't work so good in the desert though

[a64pilot]

Back from my bicycling days isn't in Tx., Camel back made an "ice back" it was a regular Camel back drinking water bag, but the part that was against your skin was not insulated, just mesh, so you had a bag of ice water than laid all down your spine.
I want to tell you, even if you didn't drink it, it kept you cool no matter how hot it was

[Suijin]

A few random thoughts:

A personal fan:



Been working on my deck for the last couple of months in the NC heat, in a shed. By noon it's over 110 up on the deck and if you don't have one of these blowing on you you start to get dopey pretty quick. I drag it all over the deck, keeping it on me, and it makes a world of difference. All the yard workers here have one and if it get's "borrowed" they will hunt the perp down and kill them.

I don't know why but my hands sweat less in nitrile gloves than in latex gloves, and the nitrile is more puncture/wear resistant, but not as solvent resistant, at least with acetone.

If you're doing a lot of grinding/sanding and laying down on the deck, wear gloves. The heel of one of my non-dominant hand has skin that would make a rhinoceros proud from getting pressed into gelcoat and fiberglass dust. It's getting better but was pretty nasty for awhile.

Wear a dust mask if you've not cleaned, even if you're not still sanding. Does not take a lot to kick up particles.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Suijin

A few random thoughts:

A personal fan:



Been working on my deck for the last couple of months in the NC heat, in a shed. By noon it's over 110 up on the deck and if you don't have one of these blowing on you you start to get dopey pretty quick. I drag it all over the deck, keeping it on me, and it makes a world of difference. All the yard workers here have one and if it get's "borrowed" they will hunt the perp down and kill them.

I don't know why but my hands sweat less in nitrile gloves than in latex gloves, and the nitrile is more puncture/wear resistant, but not as solvent resistant, at least with acetone.

If you're doing a lot of grinding/sanding and laying down on the deck, wear gloves. The heel of one of my non-dominant hand has skin that would make a rhinoceros proud from getting pressed into gelcoat and fiberglass dust. It's getting better but was pretty nasty for awhile.

Wear a dust mask if you've not cleaned, even if you're not still sanding. Does not take a lot to kick up particles.

Yep, I use those a lot too. You can daisy chain multiple units together and really make a difference. You can also tape cheap clear plastic duct right to the output and run clean cool air from outside the bag to wherever it's needed. Ran two all day yesterday with a crew of three glassing up a 15'x3' section of hull above the engine room vents on a 76' Hatteras that burned and sank due to engine room fire. I use the Lasko instead of the Stanley, they have a slightly more expensive model that looks exactly the same but has a more powerful motor which moves more CFM. My old ones are better than the new ones, and some have thousands of hours of service. Might be a good CL item. The cheaper Stanley and Lasko models that look like this are much quieter than the really high output expensive floor drying models, which I usually use for taping ducting too. With more high quality duct these can be used for negative air flow as well.



https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail...E&gclsrc=aw.ds










https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[minaret]

You guys lemme know if you wanna see video of a turboshear going to town on the hull of a Hatteras.


The client has bigger problems; last weekend he threw a prop on one of his other boats. At over 200 MPH! This weekend he made the races at Seafair. Busy week!

[SailingFan]

Originally Posted by Delancey

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sensitization

Same problem with epoxy. I have a friend whose boatbuilding career was ruined. He will react to fully cured epoxy sanding dust. I have heard fair skinned blondes are most at risk. Could be wrong on that but watch out!!!

The resin itself is fairly benign. It's the hardener that is the problem. Lower ratio mixes are less bad so 3:1 better that 5:1.

Now THAT looks like an "owie!" photo!!

[Zach]

Solvent bottle for acetone... Squeeze style is a big benefit, as you can direct it where you need it rather than bathing in the stuff.

Take a peak at SAS thickster nitrile gloves, along with the Black Mamba brand, they are thick enough not to break down and have a much longer sleeve.

If you are using Latex gloves with Epoxy and Acetone, be aware that the solvent break through time is very short and you may as well be going naked well before they dissolve totally... Nitrile is a little better, but the thin blue ones are a few minutes better than latex.

I switched over to mostly polyester work after West Systems started messing with my skin... Still do it, but much more limited amounts than what I used to.

If you are a full face respirator user, double check the seal as sometimes you can have the wrong size for normal breathing but hand pressure over the openings without filters and pull it down tight. Not good to figure you have the wrong size when you start smelling things mid-spray... If you've got a big head, sometimes that can be a struggle.

I ended up going with a half face silicone 3M respirator, and suit up with a face shield if grinding over head.

The 3M fuel sunglasses and clear safety glasses work very well... Pay a little more, but they don't fog up near as bad as the cheap stuff.

[Bagheera MTL]

Originally Posted by minaret

SAS class D forced air rig. Game changer. Forced air for about $500 instead of $2500.

Hey Minaret I’m looked at forced air rigs, can’t seem to find any information online about the SAS Class D forced air rig you are talking about. Could you point me in the right direction, would much rather pay 500$ than 2500$