Need help with Companionway steps

[James S]

During my refit I moved my companionway from the starboard side to the center of my cabin, and now its time to build a new set of steps.

I see lots of steps with the ends turned up at about a 20deg angle and this seems to make sense although I have never used them at sea.

I also see flat steps with the forward edge convex, having a gentle radius to the outside...these look nice but seems to be the opposite to what you would want when healed.
I've also seen the combination of the two.

It seems to me if the step was flat, having the leading edge concaved/curved in, would be much more useful when healed....but I have never seen this?

It seems the ultimate would be having the ends angled up and the face concaved, but have never seen this either?

Also seems that the higher the side stringers are the better support I can have with my calves, but I don’t see this either?

I have fallen down the steps enough to know I don’t mind spending plenty of time trying and get it as close to right as possible.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

This is a pretty old pic but you get the idea of the set-up.

[Christian Van H]

Hey James, here's my favorite steps so far. I have seen steps with storage below the treads (nice), and laminated steps held up by a welded stainless frame that looked like they were floating on air. As for the shape, I think there is something to the curve for heeling, and not so much the lip curve. More important than anything is the tread surface. I like treadmaster here.

[Stevens 47]

James I think I get your idea...a compound angle? Maybe the reason that you have not seen any are that to build them from wood would take allot of time and skill. Do you have a way of drawing your idea so that it can be understood.

[James S]

Thanks guys.

What seems to me to be optimum would be similar to the picture Chris has posted above, with a couple mods.

1- The flat spot/center of the face of the step, would actually be set back in 2 or 3 inches then angle up and forward to where it is now connected to the stringers.

2-the stringers would extend up higher 3 or 4 inches away from the nose of the step to give more support on the lower leg.

In other words the ends of the steps would angle up and forward instead of just up, and the stringers would be more like little walls on the side.

One other note...I would think it would be better if the back of the step had a space between it and the back panel/riser to let the water and crud pass through to the sole.

Is this making any sense?

[Splash Gordon]

Just a quick thought: I reckon the upturned ends of the treads are a "not-negotiable", but further to that, you have to make the top step the same level as the cockpit floor (or wherever it is you step into the cabin from) because in the dark, or under pressure in a lumpy sea one has a mental image of where the top step or cockpit floor should be.

[James S]

Chris
I have never worked with treadmaster type stuff, I'd like to give it a go but am wondering about its bending characteristics...the part of the tread that I most want non-skid the most on is the nose...if I put it on the whole step and try and wrap it over say the top quarter of the nose and glue it down...is that gonna happen?
.
I'd guess the radius would be about 1/2 in. I may be able to push it to 3/4 in.

Also if the face of the step/nose is concaved in a bit, I'll have a bilateral situation, how is it for stretch or compression...what about a little heat?

I've got a shipment coming from the states and could probably get some thrown in if you think I'll be able to bend it around and down and have it adhere?

If I use that then there may no longer be much reason for making the treads from wood...if I can’t see them!
They could be from FG and would be a damn site easier to fabricate.

What do you guys think?

[Stevens 47]

James you may want to check this link out, some of the products may work...some really cool designs. Lonseal | Products | Marine - Naval

[James S]

Stevens 47
Wow...thats definitely a comprehensive line of products with some very interesting possibilities.
I'll be spending some time checking out those specs.
Have you used any of there products or seen them "in action"
Thanks for the link

[Stevens 47]

James I had a friend who used the teak product and I was impressed with it. I am thinking of using some of the products in the head as wall surface laminates and joinery facings. So the short answer is no I have no direct experience with the stuff.

[James S]

That sounds like a good application for it.
I'm looking into it....I just tried to call them but they're closed on Saturday, I give it another go on Monday.

[Christian Van H]

Hey James. Sorry for the delay, my windows install was taken out by a virus. Up and runnin' now. Yes, you can get that radius out of Treadmaster. Here's a couple of pics I snapped for you. Treadmaster is glued down with epoxy, and is one of the best non-skids available. The diamond shaped raised "bumps" can be broken off though, so you dont want a huge bend at the radius. This stuff is also on the pricey side too. I have some grey here, let me know which way you are going...

[James S]

You are the man!
Thanks for going to that trouble for me Chris.

[blahman]

Hi,

Has anyone here seen or used the Lonseal products yet?

Thanks!
Aaron

[s/v Jedi]

Instead of forming the threadmaster through the bends, you can make 3 seperate panels for each step. This looks better too.

cheers,
Nick.

[James S]

I'm not sure I understand what you mean?
Are you talking about the tread it's self being 3 panels i.e. one flat on the bottom and two angled for the ends?
I would still need to bend the tread master material over the nose of the treads.

Am I getting something wrong here?
Pics?
Thanks