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laika · 06-06-2014, 08:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by minaret

I also 202 wipe with two rag technique at least three times. This is usually what it takes for the wet rag to come back clean, ie getting no more contamination off the bottom. Make sure to gear up heavily, 202 is no joke. If you spill it on asphalt it will eat a big hole through it before you can clean it up. Don't get it in your eye. Wear a respirator and heavy gloves, minimum.

I've already gone through 3 quarts of the 202 during my hull project and your point about it's toxicity does not fall on deaf ears. It makes pretty quick work of cheap latex and nitrile gloves.

Earlier in this thread you mentioned using the 1/4 nap or "candy striper" so that was my plan. I think I will do 8 coats of 2000 with the 1/4 nap.

Prior to longboarding, I did the neat west and 407 fairing prep as you detail early on in this thread. However, in the process of boarding I had to eat through the neat west in some places to get at some of the lowest lows. Thus, I'm thinking maybe a little bit extra 2000 (8-9 coats) would not be a bad idea.

Thanks again, Minaret. I'm just winding down this huge project and am extremely happy with how it turned out, in no small part because I was able to follow the steps you lined out here in this thread.

**minaret** · 06-06-2014, 18:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by laika

I've already gone through 3 quarts of the 202 during my hull project and your point about it's toxicity does not fall on deaf ears. It makes pretty quick work of cheap latex and nitrile gloves.

Earlier in this thread you mentioned using the 1/4 nap or "candy striper" so that was my plan. I think I will do 8 coats of 2000 with the 1/4 nap.

Prior to longboarding, I did the neat west and 407 fairing prep as you detail early on in this thread. However, in the process of boarding I had to eat through the neat west in some places to get at some of the lowest lows. Thus, I'm thinking maybe a little bit extra 2000 (8-9 coats) would not be a bad idea.

Thanks again, Minaret. I'm just winding down this huge project and am extremely happy with how it turned out, in no small part because I was able to follow the steps you lined out here in this thread.

Always happy to be of help to a fellow mariner!

For posterity, did you skip the second pass of 407 filler? Or was your hull just unfair, therefore requiring burn through to get fair? Was it peeled, ground, or blasted? Did you dish out blisters? Were they glassed high and then ground fair prior to neat epoxy and bottom fairing? Or were you relying on the filler after neat epoxy to fill blister lows?

Just curious...

laika · 08-06-2014, 18:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by minaret

Always happy to be of help to a fellow mariner!

For posterity, did you skip the second pass of 407 filler? Or was your hull just unfair, therefore requiring burn through to get fair? Was it peeled, ground, or blasted? Did you dish out blisters? Were they glassed high and then ground fair prior to neat epoxy and bottom fairing? Or were you relying on the filler after neat epoxy to fill blister lows?

Just curious...

Sure, here's the basic rundown of what I did:

Three passes of neat west and two passes of the 407, but I might have kept the 407 a bit on the thin side b/c I didn't want any pinholes. Mayo consistency.

I had the hull peeled. Also ground out were over 100 small delam zones in the CSM which I then filled with 406 and rough faired before the 407.

I also laid up some glass along the hull seam (two hull halves). Biaxal and, along the stem, kevlar buried under biaxal. Also beefed up strut and skeg and glassed over 5 thruhulls. So my hull had some mods, but these contributed only slightly to the unfairness. My glass work was done with only a few layers of 12 ounce biaxal and didn't add much bulk. Everything was rough faired prior to 407. The areas where I ate through the 407 were not restricted to the areas I modified.

As a side note, I found laying up biaxal with peel ply to be problematic. Basically, the long straight strands of cloth would snake out on me under the squeegee, and when it came time to sand, there would still be voids. I had much better results skipping the peel ply and simply squeeqeing over with 406 after the last layer of cloth was put on. This made it much easier to sand fair afterwards, and allowed me a surface to sand without removing the cloth I had just laid up. I also threw a tiny bit of 406 between each layer of glass to help fill any voids

I rebuilt my rudder with s-glass and the peel ply worked beautifully in that case.

Ryan

**minaret** · 09-06-2014, 06:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by laika

Sure, here's the basic rundown of what I did:

Three passes of neat west and two passes of the 407, but I might have kept the 407 a bit on the thin side b/c I didn't want any pinholes. Mayo consistency.

I had the hull peeled. Also ground out were over 100 small delam zones in the CSM which I then filled with 406 and rough faired before the 407.

I also laid up some glass along the hull seam (two hull halves). Biaxal and, along the stem, kevlar buried under biaxal. Also beefed up strut and skeg and glassed over 5 thruhulls. So my hull had some mods, but these contributed only slightly to the unfairness. My glass work was done with only a few layers of 12 ounce biaxal and didn't add much bulk. Everything was rough faired prior to 407. The areas where I ate through the 407 were not restricted to the areas I modified.

As a side note, I found laying up biaxal with peel ply to be problematic. Basically, the long straight strands of cloth would snake out on me under the squeegee, and when it came time to sand, there would still be voids. I had much better results skipping the peel ply and simply squeeqeing over with 406 after the last layer of cloth was put on. This made it much easier to sand fair afterwards, and allowed me a surface to sand without removing the cloth I had just laid up. I also threw a tiny bit of 406 between each layer of glass to help fill any voids

I rebuilt my rudder with s-glass and the peel ply worked beautifully in that case.

Ryan

Nice, very professional.

Remember that working with peel ply in a hand lam is really more about resin ratio than a fine finish. I find it much easier to get a really lean hand layup using peel ply. In fact, sometimes I use a double layer of it, because applying the second layer sucks more resin out of the layup. Many people add cabosil to adjust viscosity and prevent run out resulting in pinhole surface voids. This makes a truly lean layup impossible, as does applying 406 between plies.

This sort of thing is not really critical to that particular sort of layup, however. Lean or rich, it'll still be stronger than the original glass. Much more relevant to new construction/custom fab in epoxy, but as long as we are discussing methods for posterity...

It also helps if you finish with a ply with a less coarse weave than 1708. I usually finish with a matt in poly, very nice to peel ply on. With epoxy, I finish with a 10 oz. boat cloth or 12 oz. 0/90.

**minaret** · 15-06-2014, 22:30

Back to where we left off. After the pilothouse roof deck is finished, the brow and dash are finished in Kingston Grey Awlcraft. The deck has been protected with 3M Pre-Masking up here. It's only $250 a roll, as opposed to the $500 a roll they charge for the "elephant skin" we used in the more high traffic areas.

**minaret** · 15-06-2014, 22:35

Pilothouse door is shot to match as well; after stripping, epoxy sealing, priming, fairing, etc.

It is hung upside down as this dramatically reduces dust in the finish. Old timers trick. Anyone know the old story about Bogie & Bacall's varnisher?

**minaret** · 15-06-2014, 22:41

Forward cap rails are shot in Dark Grey Awlgrip.

**minaret** · 15-06-2014, 22:49

Primer gelcoat on port deck is finish sanded and layout for finish gelcoat begins.

**minaret** · 15-06-2014, 22:55

Finish gel is sprayed. Guide coat is applied and the epic wet sanding session begins.

**minaret** · 15-06-2014, 23:07

As much machine sanding as possible is done, including with the 3" DA. This is the first pass, starting with 800 grit. Once an 800 profile is acheived, dry guide coat is applied for the next grit, 1000 wet.