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carlspackler · 15-10-2013, 18:02

My 89 Catalina has a molded diamond pattern non-skid flooring in the cockpit. I patched the few cracks, went over the surface with a wire brush, sanded in spots, and washed several times with mineral spirits, then applied Pettit EZ Poxy II Polyurethane.

It's not sticking so well. After 24 hours drying I am able to scratch it off in spots. I am convinced I did not do enough to remove mold release. Question: should I remove the texture entirely or try to clean the existing molded patten with bronze wool?

I am going to strip then clean the surface with Pettit # 92 Bio-Blue, then apply 6149 Easypoxy White Undercoater before finishing with the EZ Poxy.

It's not a large area. I was able to get two coats with a pint, but the texture is a bitch to clean.

redsky49 · 15-10-2013, 18:27

Mold release more than twenty years after being pulled from the mold?

More likely a primer is required, or the surface was not scuffed adequately, etc.

Best bet is to contact Petit tech help first, then ask here

carlspackler · 15-10-2013, 18:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by redsky49

Mold release more than twenty years after being pulled from the mold?

More likely a primer is required, or the surface was not scuffed adequately, etc.

Best bet is to contact Petit tech help first, then ask here

Already spoke to Pettit. Supposedly I did right. They were optimistic telling me to use a Scotch Bright to prep the surface. I am asking about experience others had in sanding off the dimples (or keeping them and cleaning such a tough surface), not whether I should follow Pettit's recommendations. A local contractor said I was nuts to try to clean the diamond pattern, so I am inclined to remove it. But if someone had good results cleaning the pattern, I'd love to hear about it.

malbert73 · 15-10-2013, 19:31

Interlux (I think) has a no-sand primer for fiberglass. We used it to prime our family's B40 decks which had nonskid we didn't want to sand. Paint stuck ridiculously well (interlux brightsides) and after 10 years, time for reapplication, was still well adhered.

**minaret** · 17-10-2013, 07:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by malbert73

Interlux (I think) has a no-sand primer for fiberglass. We used it to prime our family's B40 decks which had nonskid we didn't want to sand. Paint stuck ridiculously well (interlux brightsides) and after 10 years, time for reapplication, was still well adhered.

Never use skip sand, I have seen a whole lot of failures result from this.

**minaret** · 17-10-2013, 07:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by carlspackler

Already spoke to Pettit. Supposedly I did right. They were optimistic telling me to use a Scotch Bright to prep the surface. I am asking about experience others had in sanding off the dimples (or keeping them and cleaning such a tough surface), not whether I should follow Pettit's recommendations. A local contractor said I was nuts to try to clean the diamond pattern, so I am inclined to remove it. But if someone had good results cleaning the pattern, I'd love to hear about it.

Use lots of MEK and a fine copper wire brush. Use little scraps of rag with the brush too. The brush acts like sand paper. You can also use Roloc Bristle Discs if you are set up for that.

rocksculpter · 17-10-2013, 09:36

The only surefire way I can think of to prep non-skid is to mask off the area with plastic sheet and use a small sandblaster, hand held gun with a hose stuck in a can of sand. Other than a chemical etch no other method will touch the low spots. Using a fine silica sand, lightly applied, you won't actually remove much gelcoat. This what I'm doing when I get around to doing my topsides.

Good luck getting the new stuff off.

As a side note, When did a gelcoat blister job on my bottom I used a pressure washer/sand blaster to remove all of the gelcoat then fill and fair. Much better than grinding.

ssanzone · 17-10-2013, 09:43

isnt mineral spirits gum based? you should be using lacquer thinner.

-s

SVTatia · 17-10-2013, 09:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by ssanzone

isnt mineral spirits gum based? you should be using lacquer thinner.

-s

Acetone would be better - cleans and evaporates quicker.

I would sand what you have, clean up with acetone and apply Kiwigrip instead of poly, it is thick enough to cover the molded non-skid.

Cheechako · 17-10-2013, 10:04

I wouldnt use mineral spirits... it's pretty oily really. Acetone or lacquer thinner. The gel is pourous and maybe the mineral spirits didnt evaporate from the gel before you painted...?
I've never been a fan of Brightsides either. I've used it only inside, or on a dingy, but have had some adhesion problems I didnt expect in lockers etc. Situations where good old oil based paint would have adhered fine....

tamicatana · 17-10-2013, 10:09

I'll second the KiwiGrip. The stuff is the bomb. you can control the aggressiveness of the texture, too

Steve Bean · 17-10-2013, 10:35

When you use a solvent to clean a surface, be sure to use plenty of it, and don't leave it to evaporate; pick it up immediately with plenty of clean rags. Just letting the solvent evaporate will leave the contaminants on the surface.

salticrak · 17-10-2013, 10:48

Kiwi grip.It sticks like the proverbial, waterbased too.

MarkSF · 17-10-2013, 10:51

I don't know what the fuss is about. I simply painted my non-skid with Interlux Interdeck, the one pack stuff. I certainly wouldn't consider trying to remove the pattern. Every couple of years I paint over with the same stuff, not so much because it has worn away, but it starts to look scruffy.

I'd suggest roughening the surface with scotchbrite to get a good key, then Interdeck.