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Old 30-04-2012, 16:32   #1
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Installing "crash valves"

I'm going to be installing crash valves on both engines and wondered if anyone has done this. If so, what valve did you use? Am also thinking of locating them on each side of the aft deck so they're easy to get at. What I'm wondering is this too far above the waterline/raw intake for the cooling system (distance is 4-5 feet)???

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Old 01-05-2012, 05:57   #2
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Re: Installing "crash valves"

OK--I'll bite

What the hell are "crash valves". 60 yrs around boats, and thats a new one to me.
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:05   #3
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Re: Installing "crash valves"

I think they are an arrangement where you can use you engine water pump to pick up in the bilge (rather than through the through-hull / seacock) after you "crash" and the bilge fills with water .

Perhaps not but hopefully the OP will expain some more!
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:07   #4
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Re: Installing "crash valves"

Quote:
Originally Posted by poppasmirf View Post
I'm going to be installing crash valves on both engines and wondered if anyone has done this. If so, what valve did you use? Am also thinking of locating them on each side of the aft deck so they're easy to get at. What I'm wondering is this too far above the waterline/raw intake for the cooling system (distance is 4-5 feet)???

1974 Trojan F36 Tri-cabin
Not sure what you are talking about...crash valves are usually just your engine seacocks with a removable plug or a "t" just above the seacock with a ball valve on it.

They are usually co-located so you open the crash valve and close the seacock in one smoth manuever.

Are you asking which brand seacock to go to or what brand/size BRONZE ball valve you should put on the "t"???
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:17   #5
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Re: Installing "crash valves"

His last sentence doesn't help much.
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:51   #6
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Re: Installing "crash valves"

He has a twin engine cruiser. I think I see where he is coming from. He wants to install valves at deck level so he can switch from seacock to bilge without lifting a hatch.

To answer OP's question.

1. You wouldn't want to install that long of a loop in your cooling water intake. If you get airlocked you just burned up an engine.
2. The water pumps on your engine are small, this has been discussed before. It's not that the idea of using engines as crash pumps is a bad idea, it's that adding a backup large capacity bilge pump on a second, (higher) float switch will remove more water. And have less risk of sucking c%^P into your engine.

3. Crashing into things that hole you under the waterline is a rare event, (hopefully), engine water pump problems,....not so rare.

Back to question as mentioned above for maximum effectiveness you would want to tee right at the seacock, through the valve then directly to bilge under engine cavity with a screen.

If you have water coming in, you need to be in the engine room/compartment shutting off seacocks, and finding source of water anyway. Also have plugs made for each seacock, so when, (not if), the "stainless" pipe clamps rust through and the hose pops off the seacock that is rusted open, you can stuff in the plug you tie wrapped to the seacock in the hole and limp back to port.
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Old 01-05-2012, 07:11   #7
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Re: Installing "crash valves"

What Capn Bill said


See the Groco SSC & SSCV Valves ➥ http://www.groco.net/00-scks-valves/...info-wv-09.jpg
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:09   #8
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Thanks for all the input guys. I guess I'm going to have rethink this. I've not found a definitive answer to how much an engine's water pump flow rate is. The little information I've found indicates it's likely less than 500 gallons per hour. If this is correct it doesn't make a lot of sense to do this.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:26   #9
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Re: Installing "crash valves"

You can get a prop pump that bolts around the engine prop shaft. This way as the boat is sinking you can head towards shore and it pumps out as you go.
Just dont turn off the drive gear, I suppose you can go round in circles for a while staying dry.

something like this.
ESP

I think I have seen other designs just like this that can be attached without pulling the shaft. No load on the engine till it pumps water, normally just spins in the air inside the housing.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:27   #10
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Re: Installing "crash valves"

the chris craft commander 38 i had at one time wouod pump into boat 15 gpMINUTE whereas the pumps for bilge pumping would pump out 2200 gpHOUR....do the math. two engines pumping into boat 15 gallons sea water per minute vs outflow of only 2200 gphour---who loses.
never heard of crash valves. good luck and happy motoring. please donot have nightmares because of this info.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:38   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdowney717
You can get a prop pump that bolts around the engine prop shaft. This way as the boat is sinking you can head towards shore and it pumps out as you go.
Just dont turn off the drive gear, I suppose you can go round in circles for a while staying dry.

something like this.
ESP
Me likes it.
2400l/min=37500gal/hr!

That's what I call a bilge pump. And that's the smaller of the two.
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:15   #12
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Re: Installing "crash valves"

Thats a sweet unit !! I believe they have stuff to crank or pully fit this pump !! I would probly go the crank mount myself, cus I tend to use soft mounts and would hate to have the impeller hit the pump body!! Thats a pump ya could count on for sure!!
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:19   #13
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Re: Installing "crash valves"

It is interesting that the GROCO diagram shows the bilge pickup connected to the system after the raw water filter. Even with a good strum box that wont work for very long. _____Grant.
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